NW Explorations - All Grand Banks Fleet for 20 years!

NW Explorations off-site meeting

2010-10-19T14:21:00.000-07:00

With our season coming to an end it's time for NW Explorations' annual off-site meeting. This year we're heading over to Roche harbor for a few days on Brian's boat Deception and Scott & Alison's new floating home, Terrapin. It seems that the success of this year has brought about a TON of stuff to go over and perfect. It's refreshing to work for a company that is so atune to clients' feedback and willing to dedicate time to see where things can be done better. It's always a work in progress! Lt's just hope this gorgeous fall weather holds out through next week...

Desolation Sound Flotilla - October 10, 2010 - Friday Harbor to Bellingham Bay

2010-10-11T16:03:00.000-07:00

After being woken by the gusting wind early this morning, we wondered if we would be leaving Friday Harbor today, but the forecast called for the winds to diminish and for the sun to come out. We enjoyed a relaxed morning having breakfast (or at least a latte) in town, and even Pop-Eye, Friday Harbor’s resident harbor seal, put in an appearance. This time, the forecast was right on the button: the wind first shifted to the NW and then died down to a breeze, and we cast off under blue skies to make our homeward trip to Bellingham.

It was a lovely trip through the heart of the San Juan Islands, and we only had to dodge two WA State Ferries just as we were leaving Friday Harbor. The waters were calm, even in Rosario Strait; a good thing, too, as we had to wait for a large tanker to pass us in the middle of the strait. It was a nice change from yesterday, and made for very pleasant cruising.

As we cruised toward port up a blessedly calm Bellingham Bay, we couldn’t help but reflect on what a beautiful trip we have had. The weather was unbeatable, a Pacific Northwest autumn at its finest. We had a taste of the conditions that remind us these can be challenging waters which shouldn’t be taken for granted, but that with care and planning (and a good boat!) make for some of the finest cruising on earth. It was a truly memorable voyage – new vistas, new friends, and most definitely, new experiences!

We at NW Explorations thank all of our flotilla crews for their enthusiastic participation, and wish them all fair winds and calm seas in all their travels.

Desolations Sound Flotilla - October 9, 2010 - Montague Bay to Friday Harbor

2010-10-11T16:00:00.001-07:00

The rain came back with a vengeance in the night, and so did the wind. The anchorage was secure, but everyone was up early, listening to the weather report. The forecast called for the winds to lessen a bit by mid-morning through mid-afternoon, so we seized the moment and set off for Friday Harbor. Well, the winds did not die down as much as predicted, so we had a sloppier ride than desired. We dodged a BC Ferry as we passed by Active Pass, then bounced our way down Navy Channel, Plumper Sound, and out into Boundary Pass. Captain Bill announced a welcome back into the United States of America as we crossed the international boundary and a thank you to Canada for its hospitality. Then he kindly led us through narrow Johns Pass between Stuart and Johns Islands, which gave us a respite from the rough waters as we enjoyed the protection afforded by the islands. However, we were back into the chop after we rounded the eastern point of Speiden Island into San Juan Channel, and it was rough all the way into the port of Friday Harbor on San Juan Island.

There we had a tricky docking situation, what with the wind and current, at the customs dock. Unfortunately, our arrival coincided with that of the international sailing of the Washington State Ferry, so we had to wait until the customs officers had finished with the ferry. Over 2 hours later, we were finally cleared and had to move off the customs dock to re-dock on the other side of the breakwater –the rain and wind had increased again, so both getting off and getting back on the dock was challenging. Despite a few hair-raising moments, all the skippers brought their boats safely to rest – and everyone enjoyed getting off, at least for a bit.

Around 5 pm, we all gathered for one last social time together, finally relaxing and toasting not only our safe arrival after a trying day, but also a truly fantastic voyage. Emmelina had gathered pictures from everyone during the trip and created a beautiful slide show which we all enjoyed – it certainly felt like we had left Bellingham a long time ago. Then some crews went into town (a charming place, even in the rain) for dinner, and the rest joined together on Deception for a potluck dinner of leftovers. Then we settled down in our comfortable boats, secure at the dock, and listened to the rain.

Desolation Sound Flotilla - October 8, 2010 - Telegraph Harbour to Montague Harbour

2010-10-11T15:54:00.000-07:00

Well, the rain finally came and we have a typical Pacific Northwest fall day – cloudy with a gentle but steady rainfall. We really can’t complain, as this is the first rain we’ve had since we left Bellingham. There was no wind yet, making our travel smooth and calm. It was a short trip today, so we enjoyed a restful morning and a chance to visit the little marina store and café (good coffee drinks and pastries).

Then it was time to cast off and head for Montague Harbour on Galiano Island. Despite the gray skies, we had good visibility as we cruised around the north end of Salt Spring Island (known as Southey Point), and were able to check out Wallace Island, another provincial marine park, in Trincomali Channel. We smoothly cruised into Montague Harbour, a large protected anchorage, part of which is also a marine park. Several boats chose to use the mooring buoys provided by the park; yet another mooring experience. (Many of the buoys had an attendant cormorant perched on them, looking like they were just waiting to collect their fee.) Others chose to anchor, as there was plenty of room.

The rain didn’t dampen the enthusiasm of a small group for a hike around the park with Emmelina; it was a chance to see a 3,000 year old shell midden beach up close. Then it was time for our big evening out! We dinghied over to the public dock and walked a block up the hill where the pub bus picked us up and (laboriously) made its way up island to the famous Hummingbird Pub, home of great fish & chips and good drinks. They had a big table all set up for us, excellent service, and a very good time was had by all. Then, after the return trip by the funky pub bus, we had the fun of dinghying back to our boats in the dark as Emmelina pointed out the bio-luminescence in the water. All was cozy back aboard our boats. And… it had stopped raining.

Desolation Sound Flotilla - October 7, 2010 - Bargain Bay to Telegraph Harbour

2010-10-11T15:51:00.000-07:00

The forecast indicated a change in the weather for today, but we woke to a beautiful sunrise and clear skies with wisps of clouds. We had a bit of a conundrum today, as our planned route was to cross the Strait of Georgia south of Texada and Lasqueti Islands over to Nanaimo, go through Dodd Narrows and down to Telegraph Harbour at Thetis Island. The high water slack at Dodd Narrows wasn’t until mid-afternoon, but crossing the Strait was better in the morning before the wind came up. The crossing was a bit sloppy, anyway, but each boat picked the heading that worked best for it in those conditions. As soon as we were in the lee of Vancouver Island, the waves died down and we were cruising comfortably along the shore north of Nanaimo.

We had gotten a push from the current as we crossed the Strait, and were way too much ahead of slack at Dodd Narrows. So we slowly cruised around Newcastle Island, a marine park on the edge of Nanaimo’s harbor, then we cruised around the harbor itself, then went over and poked our noses into the bays at the north end of Gabriola Island, and ultimately had to hover outside the entrance to Dodd while waiting for it to stop churning. (Deception did try to take an early run at it, but the current was still running too fast to safely transit, so she backed off, thus providing a good example of why one needs to wait for slack.) Sometimes, patience is the name of the game. Finally, the rapids smoothed out, and after calling a securite, Deception made it most of the way through only to meet a tug and log tow which had neither called nor responded to the securite. Deception hurriedly radioed the rest of the fleet to hold up and wait for the tug and tow to exit the Narrows before coming through. The good news was by that time, the current was a non-issue and everyone made a smooth transit. Sometimes you just can’t plan everything exactly as you’d like.

Once through Dodd Narrows, we didn’t have far to cruise down Stuart Channel to Telegraph Harbour, a cove formed by Thetis and Kuper Islands. Now we are back in the Gulf Islands. We were welcomed to the charming Telegraph Harbour Marina by the owner, and soon were busy putting water on the boats (Egmont had been the last place we had access to water besides what is available through Deception Water and Power). It felt good to finally settle comfortably into our berths after a long day.

Desolation Sound Flotilla - October 6, 2010 - Grace Harbour to Bargain Bay

2010-10-11T15:48:00.000-07:00

We woke to a morning mist, which cleared as we exited Grace Harbour. Today, we said good-bye to Desolation Sound and began our southbound journey. Soon we had blue skies and stunning views of the snow-capped mountains on Vancouver Island, including a great view of the Comox Glacier. This spine of mountains on Vancouver Island provides a barrier from the Pacific Ocean, giving the mainland coast some of the most benign weather in BC, hence its nick-name, The Sunshine Coast. It was definitely living up to that name today.

We cruised down Malaspina Strait, along the east coast of Texada Island this time, just to be different from the up bound voyage. We passed the town of Van Anda on Texada, and could see many signs of the mining and quarrying industries on the island. It was so clear, we could also identify some of the mountain peaks on the mainland which we had seen on our trip up Jervis Inlet to Princess Louisa. We had a nice push from the current, and soon found the entrance to Bargain Bay, which is on the outside coast of Pender Harbour. This is an anchorage, but we are back in civilization, with lots of large homes surrounding the bay. (It is always a bit of a shock when we leave the wilderness areas to suddenly be seeing auto traffic and lots of built up areas.)

As it was almost high tide when we anchored, there was enough water for dinghies to cross through Bargain Narrows, the rocky little channel that connects Bargain Bay to Pender Harbour. A sight-seeing and grocery store run was made to Madeira Park over in Pender (rumor has it that lattes were consumed), while other folks relaxed and enjoyed the late afternoon sunshine on their fly bridges. Ahhh….

Desolation Sound Flotilla - October 5, 2010 - Prideaux Haven to Grace Harbour

2010-10-06T15:27:00.000-07:00

We woke to a beautiful apricot-tinged sunrise and clear skies. The rugged mountain vistas were quite dramatic in the clear morning light, and several people took advantage of our late start by kayaking and dinghying around the coves, treasuring the magical feeling of this place. The crew of Sea Fox enjoyed a show put on near their boat by a family of playful river otters. Eventually (and somewhat reluctantly) we weighed anchor, and slowly wended our way out of Prideaux Haven to continue our exploration of Desolation Sound.

We wove our way between small islets and islands, took a turn around lovely Tenedos Bay, then made our way round the Gifford Peninsula (which is barely connected to the mainland) to Malaspina Inlet, and then into Grace Harbour. Grace Harbour is another protected anchorage which is part of the Desolation Sound Marine Park. There was plenty of room for all the boats to anchor, which everyone did quite speedily. Again, the kayaks and dinghies were put into the water, and, again, there was a group which opted for a nature hike with Emmelina. We were all quite intrigued by the swarms of moon jellies which seemed to fill the cove, drifting lacily through the water. Just another relaxing day in Desolation Sound.

Our weather has been almost unbelievably beautiful throughout this trip, which has only added to our enjoyment of this area. Our experience has certainly been a far cry from Captain George Vancouver’s description of this area “as gloomy and dismal an aspect as nature could well be supposed to exhibit”. How surprised he would be to know his Desolation Sound draws people from around the world to visit its scenic grandeur.

Desolation Sound Flotilla - October 4, 2010 - Squirrel Cove to Preaux Haven

2010-10-06T15:22:00.000-07:00

Our actual travel time was quite short today as we began our exploration of Desolation Sound, so we enjoyed a leisurely morning. It was low tide and the shoreline looked markedly different from last night’s high tide. It was quite clear that oysters flourish among the rocky shorelines here. We weighed our anchors and got underway around 10 am under cloudy, but slowly clearing skies. Captain Bill decided to take us on a meandering route, traveling up Lewis Channel to Teakerne Arm with its beautiful Cassel Cascade waterfall at one end. The boats were able to nose up quite close to the falls while still being in very deep water; it makes for a great photo op! Then we edged along West Redonda Island, past Refuge Cove and across to wend our way between Morgan and Melville Islands on our way to Prideaux Haven, today’s destination.

Prideaux Haven is a well-protected and beautiful anchorage made up of several coves, and is part of the Desolation Sound Provincial Marine Park. Several of the boats anchored in lovely Melanie Cove and other in the outer coves. The clearing skies opened up the spectacular view out the coves to the soaring jagged mountains, including the distinctive pointed peak of Mt. Denman. Dinghies and kayaks were launched for explorations and a few rugged individuals opted for a hike with naturalist Emmelina. Around 5 pm, we all gathered aboard Deception for another little soiree, enjoying the late afternoon sunshine, good food and good company. At twilight, people returned to their boats and a peaceful starlit evening in the heart of Desolation Sound.

Desolation Sound Flotilla - October 3, 2010 - Egmont to Squirrel Cove

2010-10-05T09:41:00.000-07:00

We said goodbye this morning to one of Sea Fox’s crew. Jen headed back home this morning via float plane out of Egmont. It was fun getting to know her and have her along for the first half of our trip. We hope to see her again on a future cruise!

Today is the day we enter into Desolation Sound. It is a bit of a long haul (about 50 miles) from Egmont to our anchorage in Squirrel Cove on Cortes Island, but a scenic one: up Malaspina Strait between the mainland and Texada Island, past the towns of Powell River and Lund, through the Copeland Islands (another Provincial Marine Park), past Bliss Landing where the road on the mainland ends, round Sarah Point and into Desolation Sound. Along the way we had a great view of a Stellar Sea Lion haul-out on a rocky islet; those guys are big and noisy! Several sea lions were also being very active in the water – it looked like they were hunting together. There were several groups of “rock sausages” aka harbor seals hauled out on rocks and bobbing in the water. And we were treated to the sight of Dall’s Porpoises leaping past us, with a few of the boats experiencing the joy of having the porpoises play in their bow wakes!

We entered into beautiful Squirrel Cove and had it almost to ourselves (very different from the summertime when it can be very packed). Everyone picked a spot with plenty of room and anchors were set out quite handily, especially considering this was actually our first anchorage on this trip. Dinghies were launched, and it was off to the Squirrel Cove General Store to restock some provisions, especially fresh produce. It may be a small store, but the selection and service were excellent. Then it was back to our boats after a long day for dinner and a cozy night on the hook.

Desolation Sound Flotilla - October 2, 2010 - Princess Louisa to Egmont

2010-10-05T09:13:00.000-07:00

We enjoyed another leisurely morning at Princess Louisa Inlet, as the timing for exiting Malibu Rapids precluded a departure before 1:30 pm. We took our last hikes to Chatterbox Falls, visited with each other and the other folks we shared the dock with, and then readied our boats for departure. It was time to continue our adventure….

Out through Malibu Rapids (at slack), we retraced our path down Jervis Inlet and its constituent parts: Queen’s Reach, Princess Royal Reach, and Prince of Wales Reach. This long fjord has such sheer cliffs and deep, deep depths that there are really no anchorages along the way. It may be the same route, but it looks very different going in the opposite direction – and the autumn colors are definitely more noticeable than they were two days ago.

We cruised into Egmont and had excellent conditions for tying up to the dock at the Back Eddy Marina. It was fairly late by then, so most of the fleet quickly made their way up to the Back Eddy Pub, home of the famous Skookum Burger (a giant hamburger). Sea Fox’s crew shared a Skookum Burger, but most of us opted for the somewhat smaller Baby Skookum. No matter what the size, the burgers were excellent, as were the yam fries. The Back Eddy is an NWE favorite, and we all enjoyed a very convivial evening.

Later that night some of the crews were awakened by the pitter patter of little raccoon feet on their decks. Unfortunately for Deception we had accidentally left our hatch open to the lazerette containing the garbage stores. The raccoons wasted no time finding our mistake. It took a bit of encouragement to shoo them off; thankfully before too much mess was made! We’ll remember next time to make sure all items attractive to raccoons are well stowed before going to bed.

Desolation Sound Flotilla - October 1, 2010 - Princess Louisa Lay Day

2010-10-04T11:51:00.000-07:00

We enjoyed a beautiful lay day in Princess Louisa Provincial Marine Park. We awoke as the sun lit up the fjord and enjoyed a leisurely morning cup of coffee and breakfast. Naturalist Emmelina and Captain Bill led an intrepid group of hikers on a morning hike (scramble!) upwards to an old trapper’s cabin and waterfall with an outlook that looked out over the entire inlet. Intrepid, indeed, as it is a very strenuous climb! There were dinghy explorations, as well, and the less adventurous among us soaked up the sunshine and this beautiful setting on our fly bridges.

Around five o’clock, we pulled the deck chairs out to the dock and began to gather for appetizers and a potluck supper. The crew of Deception provided the salmon, with the help of several of the other boats’ grills, the rest of the fleet contributed delicious side dishes, and a tasty feast was devoured by all. The hiker/climbers impressed us all with their tales of strength and endurance (and sore muscles), and a delightful evening of camaraderie was enjoyed. As darkness fell, we drifted back to our boats as the peace of this special place enveloped us.

Desolation Sound Flotilla - September 30, 2010 - Fisherman's Resort & Marina to Princess Louisa

2010-10-04T11:48:00.000-07:00

We woke to fog this morning, as we had an early departure in order to transit the famed Malibu Rapids at slack tide. The fog lifted as the sky lightened, and by the time we exited Pender Harbour into Agamemnon Channel we had full sunshine and cloudless blue skies for our trip up stunning Jervis Inlet. The rugged mountain vistas are impressive, showing unmistakably the glacial action that formed this fjord. Amazingly, we saw only one other boat on our trip up to Princess Louisa Inlet on this gorgeous day; very different from the summer season.

Our timing at Malibu Rapids was perfect – it was like a millpond – and then we were into Princess Louisa Inlet. Magnificent sheer cliffs tower above us, streaked with bridal veil-like waterfalls. This place is truly awe-inspiring; it’s easy to see why several writers have described it as the eighth wonder of the world. There were only a few other boats on the park dock, so there was plenty of room for all of us as were greeted and helped in by the park ranger. From the dock we look right at spectacular Chatterbox Falls, the jewel at the head of the inlet (“Chatterbox” seems a bit of a misnomer – it’s more like a roaring cataract), and the crews wasted no time in making the short hike to the base of the falls.

This special place has been preserved for us thanks first to the man who first homesteaded here in the early 1900’s, James “Mac” MacDonald. He strongly felt that no one person should own this place and that it should be available for all to visit. His efforts combined with the boating community and many volunteers/donors led to the formation of the present BC Provincial Marine Park. The International Princess Louisa Society still actively raises funds to acquire land surrounding the park to preserve and protect this area.

The sunshine lasted well into the late afternoon despite the towering walls of the fjord, and most of those who weren’t on shore or exploring in their dinghies could be found basking in the sun atop their fly bridges. A few puffy clouds appeared just at sunset, but no more. We were treated to an incredible starlit sky streaked by the Milky Way undimmed by the lights of civilization. It was a truly perfect day!

Desolation Sound Flotilla - September 29, 2010 - Poet's Cove to Fisherman's Resort & Marina

2010-10-04T11:45:00.000-07:00

Today was our longest day, travel time and distance-wise. It was also a challenging one, as we crossed the Strait of Georgia, the largest open body of water we have to traverse on this trip. The good news was that we had a beautiful sunny day; however, we also had NW winds gusting over 20 knots and very choppy seas, which made for a very bouncy ride until we got into the lee of the eastern (mainland) shore. It was the roughest water that some of our clients had ever been in. Trusty Deception, being the heaviest boat with stabilizers, ploughed through relatively comfortably while some of the smaller 36 foot boats felt a bit like they were on a roller coaster ride!

But that was only one part of the trip. We started the day with a beautiful sunrise over Ganges Harbour, and a delightful cruise along Trincomali Channel with Salt Spring Island to our port and Galiano Island to starboard. The Gulf Islands are a prime cruising area and they were really showing off this morning! In the summer months the boat traffic can be quite dense, but we were privileged to have the channel almost to ourselves. We were headed north toward Princess Louisa and Desolation Sound, though, so that meant we had to leave the Gulf Islands behind, head out through Porlier Pass and into the sloppy seas.

After the waves (and our stomachs) settled down, we were more willing to take note of our naturalist’s updates. It was fascinating to watch two giant log rafts being towed by not-so-big tugs past the Thormanby Islands, complete with both birds and seals bumming a free, if slow, ride. We cruised into beautiful Pender Harbour and found our moorage at Fisherman’s Resort and Marina in Hospital Bay, a lovely marina with plenty of room for all our boats. We celebrated our successful crossing of the Strait of Georgia with a social hour aboard Deception (lots of yummy appetizers!) – a fine and fitting way to end a long but adventurous day!

Desolation Sound Flotilla - September, 28,2010 - Bellingham to Poet's Cove, Ganges

2010-10-04T11:40:00.000-07:00

The NWE 2010 Desolation Sound Flotilla is underway, under clearing skies and with calm seas as we set off across Bellingham Bay. We are a group of six boats – Spellbound, Navigator, Victoria, Sea Fox, and Grand Adventure, led by the ever faithful Deception. We set our course to cross north of Orcas Island, skirting Matia and Sucia Islands on our way to the Pender Islands and the Canadian Customs station in Bedwell Harbour. Along the way, our naturalist, Emmelina, noted that many of the sea birds we were seeing were beginning to don their winter plumage, especially the common murres and marbled murrelets. Lots of curious harbor seals swam by, clearly checking us out.

The fleet took no time to get accustomed to their chartered vessels and all seemed to be enjoying their first day out on the water.

By the time we got to Bedwell Harbour, we had full sunshine and sparkling seas – Welcome to Canada! After clearing customs, we set off again, rounding North Pender Island. We noted that quite a lot of those harbor seals were taking advantage of the sunny weather and basking on the rocky islets that dotted the shoreline, demonstrating why the NWE crew fondly dubs them “Rock Sausages”. From North Pender we headed almost in a straight line for Ganges on Salt Spring Island, our destination for the night. Salt Spring Island is the largest of the Gulf Islands and Ganges is the largest town. After tying up at our berths at Salt Spring Marina in Ganges Harbour, most of the crews went ashore to explore this charming town and to finish provisioning those items that have cross-border restrictions (primarily fresh produce and alcoholic libations). Several restaurants received rave reviews, and well-fed and well-satisfied with our lot in life, we settled in for a cozy evening under a beautiful starry sky (with Jupiter shining prominently) after an exciting first day.

August 18, 2010 - Leg 6, Day 17 - Friday Harbor to Bellingham

2010-08-18T13:20:00.001-07:00

This is it, the last day of the last leg of the 2010 Mother Goose Guided Flotilla. It is a short trip today from Friday Harbor to Bellingham, and we made a leisurely departure (except for Navigator who left early as they had deadlines to meet). We also said good-bye to the crew of Arctic Star, who are extending their cruise with a few extra days in the San Juan Islands. It seemed a bit strange to travel without some of the goslings after having been together for so long.

It has been an awesome journey; each leg has brought incredible adventures and experiences for all our crews, from magnificent scenery and amazing wildlife to developing our skills as mariners. It has been NW Explorations’ privilege to share these waters with all our crews. We wish you all fair winds and calm seas in all your voyages and hope to see you again in the not too distant future. Thank you for a wonderful journey!

August 17, 2010 - Leg 6, Day 16 - Montague Harbor to Friday Harbor

2010-08-18T13:17:00.000-07:00

As it is a short trip to Friday Harbor, a later departure was scheduled. This allowed for a lovely morning hike in Montague Harbour Provincial Marine Park, adjacent to our anchorage. We explored a shell midden beach, then walked through fir and madrone (arbutus) trees on well maintained paths, across a rocky beach back to the dinghy dock, and enjoyed views of the boat-filled harbour.

We hoisted our anchors one last time and got underway, cruising down Trincomali Channel past Active Pass, keeping an eye on the ferry and freighter traffic that comes through that aptly named passage. Just as we began our turn into Navy Channel, between Mayne and North Pender Islands, we had the very great pleasure of seeing a large group of Orcas heading our way. We, of course, hovered and soon we were surrounded by the whales. It was truly awesome as we watched them breaching, spyhopping, rolling, and lobtailing! They put on a great show! Some of the whales even went under Navigator which caused a great deal of excitement. Emmelina was able to identify at least one whale as belonging to J Pod, but there were clearly more than that one pod in the area, probably from K Pod, as well. These are the southern resident orcas which are a distinct group from the orcas we saw in northern British Columbia. Emmelina also informed us that this was the first time a Mother Goose flotilla had seen the Southern Resident Orcas on the route home.

After the orcas had passed us, we continued on our way past Saturna Island to cross the appropriately named Boundary Pass back into the United States and into the San Juan Islands. We made our way past Stuart and Johns Islands, along Speiden Island and then down San Juan Channel, dodging a Washington State Ferry, into the port of Friday Harbor. After clearing Customs and settling into our spots in the marina, Deception hosted a last Happy Hour, as our journey is coming to an end. This is always a bittersweet time as we remember the incredible experiences we’ve had and the friendships we’ve made. Ketchikan seems a long time ago!

August 16, 2010 - Leg 6, Day 15 - Secret Cove to Montague Harbor

2010-08-18T13:16:00.000-07:00

Today we crossed the Strait of Georgia, the large open body of water between mainland BC and southern Vancouver Island. It was a long straight heading as we made our way to the Gulf Islands and Montague Harbour. The good news was that the strait was very calm, with smooth glassy seas; it can be very rough. The bad news was that the smoke haze still blocked our view of the mountains on the mainland. Emmelina warned us that animal sightings were usually pretty rare during this part of the trip, but there were some fleeting sights of Dall’s Porpoises.

Once across the Strait of Georgia, we cruised along the outside of Gabriola and Valdes Islands, spying some “rock sausages” (aka: harbor seals) basking in the sun, and then passing through Porlier Pass into Trincomali Channel. Now we were in the heart of the Gulf Islands, and had to mind our helms as we watched out for kayakers, other boats and ferries. We cruised almost the length of long, skinny Galiano Island into lovely Montague Harbour, a large protected anchorage which can handle a lot of boats. We all settled in, Deception refilled Navigator’s water tanks, and into the water went the kayaks and dinghies. We had a chance to relax before dinghying to shore to catch the funky pub bus to the Hummingbird Pub – a Galiano Island experience, indeed! We had a delicious dinner with a touch of local flavor (not to mention the excellent halibut), and returned to our boats as a glowing red sun slipped behind the trees. Aahh!

August 15, 2010 – Leg 6, Day 14 – Squirrel Cove to Secret Cove

2010-08-17T09:02:00.000-07:00

We awoke to an already warm morning and were soon underway across Desolation Sound, which did not resemble Captain Vancouver’s description of it one bit. If he had seen it on a day like today, it would definitely have had a different name! The smoke haze had dissipated somewhat, but unfortunately obscured our views of the mountains on Vancouver Island. We passed out of Desolation Sound and cruised along the “Sunshine Coast” down Malaspina Strait, with Texada Island to our west. We passed by the town of Lund, which is where the road up the mainland coast ends. In addition, there were lots of houses along the shore and as we cruised into more populated areas, we noticed that we were seeing less wildlife. We did enjoy the antics of quite a few harbor seals, on and off floating logs, however!

The warm weather has certainly brought out the boaters; as we passed by Buccaneer Bay on Thornby Island, we noticed it was packed with boats. After our wilderness cruising up north, the anchorages now seem very crowded. Our destination was Secret Cove, a lovely but popular spot (it is easy driving distance from Vancouver), and even though we arrived there fairly early, finding room for our boats was a challenge. We ended up rafting 3 boats together and stern-tying Navigator, while Inside Passage found a good spot off on their own. There was plenty of time for dinghy trips around the little harbor, kayak explorations, and even some swimming as the weather remained hot. Mystic Eagle hosted dinner for the three rafted boats, and a lovely evening was enjoyed by all as we watched the lights come on in the houses around us.

August 14, 2010 – Leg 6, Day 13 – Blind Channel to Squirrel Cove

2010-08-17T08:58:00.000-07:00

We were up early for a 7 am departure from Blind Channel in order to hit the rapids we would be going through today close to slack. It was a beautiful morning and as we cruised down Cordero Channel in the early morning light, layers upon layers of mountains unfolded before us, rising up out of the water to give the channel a fjord-like appearance. Mystic Eagle alerted the fleet to a pod of Dall’s Porpoise coming our way, and most of the boats had the thrill of having porpoises riding the bow wakes! Wow!

As we approached Dent Rapids, the boat traffic picked up as everyone was aiming for slack at the rapids. This area is home to several large hotels and resorts which seem a bit jarring in contrast to the wilderness setting around us. Even being so close to slack, the rapids at Dent and Yaculta were still running about 2-3 knots against us and the skippers had to mind their helms; their crews got to enjoy the harbor seals cavorting along the tidal rips.

As we were cruising along, the haze in the sky thickened and began to obscure what should have been a beautiful day. It smelled smoky and we learned it was caused by forest fires on the BC mainland. British Columbia is experiencing a dry summer and multiple fires are a result.

We arrived in Squirrel Cove in good time to find anchorages for all our boats; we are in Desolation Sound now, a very popular cruising ground for northwest boaters, and the anchorages can fill up quickly. Dinghies and kayaks were launched to explore the cove, and to pay a visit to the Squirrel Cove store (ice cream!) and craft shop. The day had gotten quite hot and the inviting water lured several intrepid mariners to jump in to cool off – which they quickly did as the water temperature was a chilly 55 degrees F! Mystic Eagle generously hosted a Happy Hour and we finished out a fine summer day with good company in a special place.

August 13, 2010 – Leg 6, Day 12 - Lagoon Cove to Blind Channel

2010-08-16T09:46:00.000-07:00

We had a planned noon-time departure due to tides and currents, so some of the fleet decided to take a morning hike. It was not to be, however, as a cougar had been spotted the night before right on the main path up from the dock. The Canadian Fisheries department sent in a wildlife conservation team to try to track it, but despite their efforts, that ol’ wily cougar managed to elude the tracking dogs and officers by the time we departed.

The fog had completely lifted by the time we departed from Lagoon Cove and it was a beautiful Northwest summer day. The tide was still low, but that made it easier to see the rocks as we threaded our way through the Blowhole into Chatham Channel and then through our first set of rapids (at slack). We entered into a sparkling and calm(!) Johnstone Strait. We did have an orca sighting through binoculars, but they were way on the other side of the strait, and unfortunately our schedule did not permit a major detour … “time and tide (and rapids) wait for no man”…. As we cruised down the strait, the mountain vistas on Vancouver Island and the mainland became more dramatic. The current was running with us, and inevitably (it seems) we encountered a tug and tow in Current Passage, a constricted stretch of Johnstone Strait. We were out of his way, but it was interesting to watch him grinding his way against the current.

The day’s cruising schedule had been timed around the currents and tidal rapids, and Green Point Rapids were the last ones we had to transit, just before reaching our moorage. We passed through without any issue, but there was enough swirly water to give us a sense of the power of the water and why the timing was so important. We settled into our slips at Blind Channel Marina and Resort, nestled into the side of West Thurlow Island, everybody dealing easily with the tricky currents at the marina. Fresh lettuce was found at the Blind Channel store, grown in their own garden no less! The evening brought about fine dining ashore as well as cozy meals aboard!

August 12, 2010 – Leg 6, Day 11 – Port McNeill to Lagoon Cove

2010-08-16T09:44:00.000-07:00

There was no fog in Port McNeill this morning, but there was wind. Captain Bill held a skippers’ meeting to go over docking procedures at Lagoon Cove, which can be a little tricky in windy conditions, as well as what to expect on the following day when we have the challenges of current and timing the transit of several tidal rapids.

We had hardly left the harbour when Navigator’s crew spotted a black bear on the beach. Emmelina noted the bear had to walk through town in order to get onto that beach. As we cruised by Alert Bay, noting the totem poles, a gray whale was sighted along the shore; Emmelina (aka Whale Woman) was thrilled as this was a rare sighting on a Mother Goose trip. The fact that the whale was feeding so close to a muddy beach (gray whales are bottom-feeding baleen whales) and its mottled gray color were what clued Emmelina into the fact that it was not a humpback whale.

The forecast for high winds did not materialize, but we were very aware of the current. First it was against us and we plowed along, but then it switched and we zoomed along (Deception hit over 12 knots – practically unheard of!) through island studded channels. We arrived early into Lagoon Cove on East Cracroft Island, but Bill Barber fit us all in nicely on the dock (which went smoothly), and welcomed the fleet to Lagoon Cove Marina, one of Mother Goose’s favorite stops.

Emmelina led a group of hikers on a nature walk out to the Blowhole and the “Bakery Boat Lady” arrived at the dock with sticky buns, cookies, breads, and pies. But the real focus of attention was the 5:00 Happy Hour, a Lagoon Cove tradition, whereby all the boaters bring an appetizer to share, Bill and Jean Barber provide the fresh caught prawns and stories, and a great time is had by all.

August 11, 2010 – Leg 6, Day 10 - Port McNeill Lay Day

2010-08-12T12:50:00.001-07:00

Today was a lay day in Port McNeill – a good day to add to our provisions for the next leg of the trip and get in some good walks. While most of us slept in, the crew of Mystic Eagle got up early to go out on a fishing charter; they came back in the late afternoon with a large salmon and a halibut which they generously shared with the fleet – yum!

A trip to Alert Bay was enjoyed by other crews; this Namgis First Nations town is a short ferry ride from Port McNeill, located on nearby Cormorant Island, and is home to the U’Mista Cultural Centre. U’Mista provides an outstanding and moving introduction to the local native culture and their efforts to reclaim their heritage and the treasures which had been taken from them in the past.

Time was also spent on boat maintenance and repair, as Port McNeill has good marine facilities and needed parts are available. Thanks to Jason 2 for helping to get Arctic Star's water pump repaired!

After the chores were done, there was time to visit with other boaters on the dock and watch the bald eagles soar overhead and go after the fish scraps left by fishermen on the tidal flats. Everyone is ready to get underway again; tomorrow we are off to Lagoon Cove.

August 10, 2010 – Blunden Harbor to Port McNeill

2010-08-12T12:49:00.000-07:00

We were able to have a more leisurely departure this morning as the trip across Queen Charlotte Strait to the town of Port McNeill is a short one. Several of the boats need to refuel, and if provisions are running low, Port McNeill is the place to take care of both needs. However, as we left Blunden Harbour, we immediately entered into the fog. This area is a very busy shipping channel, so we needed to pay close attention to our radars (and for those boats equipped with it, AIS). As the fog lifted, we were treated to the sight of some Dall’s Porpoises arching sleekly along in the calm water.

We got into Port McNeill and found our slips waiting for us at Steve Jackman’s Port McNeill Fuel Dock and Marina, along with helpful dockhands (Thanks, Steve!) After settling in there was time to explore the town, and choose a place to dine out for dinner. A pleasant evening ended with an amazing fire-y sunset.

August 9, 2010 – Leg 6, Day 8 – Fury Cove to Blunden Harbor

2010-08-12T12:47:00.000-07:00

The Mother Goose fleet was up at “o’dark-thirty” this morning as we prepared to make our crossing of Queen Charlotte Sound around Cape Caution. This is one of the open water crossings we make and can be challenging. After checking the weather and sea condition reports, and with knowledge of the prevailing weather patterns, Captain Bill determined on an early departure to get us across the sound while the seas and winds would be at their calmest. We left Fury Cove just at first light and indeed, our crossing proved to be quite smooth with only two foot swells and no wind waves as we watched the sun come up over the mountains on the British Columbia mainland.

After rounding Cape Caution we stayed closer to the mainland side, cruising along the craggy shoreline that showed the signs of the harsh weather this area can experience. Off in the distance we could now see the north end of Vancouver Island. We detoured through the Millar Group, a chain of rocky islets, to check out a Stellar Sea Lion haulout – one of the islets was just covered with these large mammals – while a humpback whale spouted on the other side of us! Then it was on to our anchorage at Blunden Harbour where there was plenty of room for everyone to anchor individually. Here we executed a water transfer from Deception to Navigator, as Navigator had taken on some bad water at Shearwater which necessitated the disinfecting and pumping out of their tanks, then refilling them from Deception’s tanks. This was accomplished expeditiously, and the crew of Navigator happily went off to make ice for their evening beverages.

A dinghy exploration of Blunden Harbour and its tidal rapids, led by Naturalist Emmelina and First Mate Jordan, filled out the afternoon, and we celebrated a successful crossing of Queen Charlotte Sound, a cruising milestone, with a social hour aboard Deception.

August 8, 2010 – Leg 6, Day 7 – Shearwater to Fury Cove

2010-08-12T12:46:00.000-07:00

We left Shearwater on a pretty clear morning – no fog! – and cruised past the First Nations town of Bella Bella into Lama Passage, where we had to dodge a lot of logs in the water. The morning light on these wooded islands dappled them in myriad shades of green, and it was beautifully calm as we transited Fisher Channel on our way into Fitzhugh Sound. We made our way along the jagged mainland shore with occasional whale sightings. We nosed our way into Namu Harbour, another old defunct cannery community that does have caretakers who welcome visitors. Then further on cruised by the mouth of the Koeye River, a river known for its salmon runs and where a First Nations longhouse is located. This is an area which has been inhabited by the native peoples for thousands of years.

As we neared Fish Egg Inlet, we started seeing lots of whale blows – to the right, to the left, and all around us! As we hovered around watching the humpback whale show, a sailboat hailed us – it was the Spirit of Freedom with Captain Bill’s uncle and cousin aboard. They had recognized the NWE fleet (we are a pretty distinctive group up here), but still, there is something about unexpectedly running into your relatives in the wilderness….

We entered into Fury Cove, a sheltered anchorage with a beautiful white shell midden beach. This was also the most crowded anchorage we’ve been in so far, and we rafted together in two groups to reduce our footprint (boatprint) in the cove. Several shore parties explored the beach and tide pools, then it was back to the boats for an early night - for tomorrow we cross Queen Charlotte Sound.

August 7, 2010 – Leg 6, Day 6 – Bottleneck Inlet to Shearwater

2010-08-09T10:40:00.000-07:00

The Mother Goose fleet awoke to a misty morning, and as we exited Bottleneck Inlet, we were greeted by a humpback whale – maybe the same one we saw last night. We proceeded down Finlayson Channel, scanning the shores for bears, when suddenly a pod of Orcas found us! They were all around us; it was hard to know which way to look. Navigator’s crew had great orca juju as a large male surfaced several times just off of their stern. Unlike the pod of orcas we had seen earlier, which had stayed together in a fairly tight group, these were more spread out and were probably hunting, according to naturalist Emmelina.

Continuing on after the orcas left us, we entered into Jackson Narrows, a passage that has a tight constriction at its eastern end. Captain Bill had timed our transit for high water slack and all the boats successfully navigated the narrow rocky channel which then opens out into Mathieson Channel. We cruised along rocky islets and islands and saw another humpback whale before entering into Reid Passage, a scenic passage into Seaforth Channel, but alas, we didn’t see any bears.

Once in Seaforth Channel we began seeing more boats, especially as we neared the towns of Bella Bella and Shearwater. Steve, the harbourmaster at the Shearwater marina, was expecting us, and had places on the dock for each boat (Thanks, Steve!). As soon as we were secured, we headed up the dock to the Shearwater Store and Pub (and wi-fi connections for those who had been forced to be internet-free for several days in the wilderness). It was a fun evening as we chatted with other boaters on the dock and enjoyed a festive night out.

August 6, 2010 – Leg 6, Day 5 – Hawk Bay to Bottleneck Inlet

2010-08-09T10:36:00.000-07:00

Those of us who awoke early today were treated to the sight of a breaching humpback whale just outside the opening to our anchorage. Mystic Eagle took off early to do some more whale watching and the rest of the fleet soon followed.

We cruised through Wright Sound, an area where a number of channels converge, then along McKay Reach where some of the boats were treated to the experience of having Dall’s Porpoises ride in their bow wakes. These mammals seem to express such joy, as if bow riding is just a great game to them. As we traveled along these channels, the depth readings of over 1500 feet are indicative of the glacial action that carved out these fjords, as well as the hanging valleys and jagged rock faces of the mountains on either side of us.

As we cruised along Finlayson Channel, alongside Princess Royal and Roderick Islands, naturalist Emmelina informed us we were in the “Great Bear Rainforest”. We kept a lookout for bear sightings, especially for the rare “Spirit Bear”, a white black bear found only in this area, but the deteriorating weather apparently kept them out of sight. The rain became a steady downpour (we were in a rainforest, after all), and we peered through it at the derelict old fish cannery at Butedale. Just before entering into our anchorage in Bottleneck Inlet on Roderick Island, we sighted another Humpback whale. We set our anchors and joined by a couple of playful harbor seals, settled in to enjoy a calm and cozy rainy night.

August 5, 2010 – Leg 6, Day 4 – Newcombe Harbour to Hawk Bay

2010-08-09T10:34:00.001-07:00

The skies were overcast this morning but there was no fog as we departed Newcombe Harbour. We cruised down Petrel Channel, detouring through Ala Passage to check out the “Math Islands” (Sine, Cosine, Tangent and Azimuth), before entering into Principe Channel. We kept a sharp lookout for whales as we had seen them in this area last year, but no luck. That was about to change, though, as we entered Otter Reach. We hovered after sighting our first Humpback whales, but that was just the beginning … As we entered into Squally Channel, we saw whale blows and flukes in all directions – and then a breaching whale – and then another! Another whale put on a prolonged display of tail slapping, over and over again. It was truly awesome! Needless to say, we hovered and watched the show for quite awhile. Some whales came close enough to some of the boats that they could hear (and smell!) the whales’ breathe. Inside Passage reported that whale breath is very fishy stinky smelling. On the other hand, how many people get to say they’ve smelled a whale?

We reluctantly headed for our anchorage in Hawke Bay on Fin Island, as the whale show continued. Hawke Bay is a tight and slightly tricky anchorage, so we rafted Mystic Eagle and Inside Passage to Deception, and Navigator to Arctic Star, thus limiting our anchoring footprint. Once our boats were settled, though, several dinghies went out to continue the whale watching and even those of us who remained on our boats could still see whale blows and flukes just outside and framed by the opening into our little bay. What a memorable experience!

August 4, 2010 – Leg 6, Day 3 – Prince Rupert to Newcombe Harbour

2010-08-09T10:33:00.000-07:00

After a pleasant night at anchor in Pillsbury Cove, we started the day with a fun water taxi ride from Prince Rupert Adventure Tours (water taxi and sightseeing tours) into Prince Rupert to do our provisioning. Our taxi skipper, Mike, was delightful, providing boat to dock service with good cheer and a smile (Thanks, Mike!). After our shopping was completed, Mike ferried us back to our boats; we hoisted anchors and set off – into the fog. Thanks goodness for modern radar technology! It is hard to imagine navigating without it. (We are apt to hone our radar skills on this leg as August is known colloquially as “Fogust” around here.) We also prudently made sure that we each kept a visual on the boat ahead of us.

As the fog cleared we discovered we were traveling along tree-covered rocky islands with snow-capped mountain vistas in the distance. We cruised along the sparkling waters of Petrel Channel under now clear blue skies into the lovely anchorage of Newcombe Harbour, an inlet on Pitt Island. Everyone found a good spot to drop anchor and once secured, gathered for a social hour aboard Deception, where we enjoyed good company and yummy munchies. And another day came to a peaceful end.

August 3, 2010 – Leg 6, Day 2 – Foggy Bay to Prince Rupert

2010-08-04T14:00:00.001-07:00

Orcas! We had barely left Foggy Bay when sharp-eyed naturalist Emmelina spotted a large pod if orca whales off in the distance, but coming our way. We all slowed our boats and isled while at least ten whales came past us, ranging in all sizes from a large male with an enormous dorsal fin to several smaller ones. These are the fish-eating orcas which travel in matriarchal groups, in contrast to the more solitary transient orca which prey on marine mammals. We kept our distance, but they came close enough that we were able to see the white markings around their eyes and hear their exhalations.

Our crossing of Dixon Entrance was smooth with no chop, just a little swell. We soon saw the red and white Canadian lighthouse off of Dundas Island and knew we had left Alaska and were now in British Columbia. We threaded our way through the Moffet Islands which are very picturesque, plus it broke up the straight open crossing to make it more interesting.

We wound our way through Venn Passage into Prince Rupert, B.C.’s most northern port city, and cleared customs. Here we received the unwelcome news that despite having reservations at the marina there was no space for us. We decided to anchor in the very lovely Pillsbury Cove across the bay from Prince Rupert – good holding and well sheltered with plenty of room for all of us. Ever resourceful Emmelina arranged for a water taxi to get us up into town tomorrow for our much needed provisions!

August 2, 2010 – Mother Goose - Leg 6, Day 1 – Ketchikan to Foggy Bay

2010-08-04T13:59:00.000-07:00

The Mother Goose fleet is off on leg 6, cruising the Inside Passage from Alaska through British Columbia, Canada to Washington. We left Ketchikan on a clear morning and cruised down the Tongass Narrows on our way to Foggy Bay. As we gradually left the urban hustle and bustle of Ketchikan behind, we began seeing more and more fishing boats. Of the five major types of fishing boats found in Alaska’s waters, we saw (and dodged) three of them – till-netters, purse seiners, and trollers. We particularly had to keep a sharp lookout around the netters and seiners, as their necks extend a fair distance from their boat and we sure didn’t want to inadvertently get too close to them.

After cruising along in calm seas, we negotiated the zig-zaggy entrance into Foggy Bay, a lovely cove. Here we successfully accomplished a five-boat raft-up (no small feat on our first day out!). First mate, Jordan, executed some awesome on shore acrobatics to set the stern ties and we all settled in for a cozy first night of the trip. Some members of the fleet went on dinghy tours of Very Inlet (avoiding the rushing rapids, although they were cool to see), and others went out fishing with some small success. It was a beautiful evening to end an exciting day.

Mother Goose - July 29, 2010 - Leg 5, Day 9 - Meyers Chuck to Ketchikan

2010-07-31T08:32:00.000-07:00

We cast off from our moorings in Meyers Chuck, but not before cinnamon rolls were delivered to our boats by a local baker – such service! This is our last day of cruising and it was hard to leave the pristine beauty of our wilderness cove, knowing we were heading back to civilization and the end of our trip. As we cruised down Clarence Strait toward Ketchikan, we began to see more traffic – cruise ships, pleasure crafts, as well as fishing vessels. But our wildlife experiences were not yet over, for a pod of Dall’s Porpoises sped over to several of our boats, even riding the bow wakes of Inside Passage and Navigator for quite some time – a truly awesome experience!

But soon we turned the corner into Tongass Narrows, the waterway on which Ketchikan is located, and suddenly it was an urban landscape. Float planes looked like they were aiming directly for us as they headed in for landings on either side of us, ferries crossed back and forth in front of us going to and fro from the airport, giant cruise ships dominated the Ketchikan waterfront, and the maritime traffic in general was more than we’d seen on the whole trip!

Far too soon, our Best of Alaska adventure comes to an end. The boats are fueled and snug in their slips, folks go off to explore town and purchase any last souvenirs of Alaska. One more night on the boats and then it will be time to say good-bye to our new friends – always the hardest part of any trip. As the crew of Navigator put it, we start out as strangers, but end the journey as family! Thank you to all the goslings for a wonderful journey!

Mother Goose - July 28, 2010 - Leg 5, Day 8 - Wrangell to Meyers Chuck

2010-07-31T08:31:00.000-07:00

After our port o’call, Mother Goose and her goslings were anticipating being back on the water and underway again. We left Wrangell and continued our journey southward on another beautiful Alaska summer morning. We cruised down Zemovia Strait, with Wrangell Island to port and Etolin Island to starboard; the strait is actually a pretty open channel, but there is a tricky spot known appropriately as “The Narrows” where we have to zigzag in single file through a rocky passage. After successfully negotiating the Narrows, we kept a sharp lookout for wildlife, and thanks to the eagle eyes of naturalist Emmelina, we were rewarded with the sighting of a black bear on the shore. We hovered quietly and were able to watch it for awhile, giving everyone a chance to see it, especially the crew of Mystic Eagle who had yet to see a bear.

By early afternoon we had arrived at the charming rustic hamlet of Meyers Chuck which is nestled around a lovely protected cove. There was room on the public dock for a couple of the boats and the others anchored out in the cove. The local people opened their gallery/gift shop for us and took our orders for cinnamon rolls. Most of the crews went for an exploratory hike on shore, through the forest to the rocky shoreline, or took their dinghies out and around the cove. Then it was time to gather for our “last supper” wherein we try to clean out our larders and have a potluck onboard Deception. A great time was had by all as we shared stories, swapped addresses, got a little misty-eyed, and finished up with a great talent show.

Mother Goose - July 27, 2010 - Leg 5, Day 7 - Wrangell

2010-07-29T16:10:00.000-07:00

Today was a lay day in Wrangell. After the rainy beginning to our trip, we are really enjoying the sunny weather – it was hot by SE Alaska standards! Taking advantage of the morning low tide, Naturalist Emmelina led a group to see the ancient petroglyph carvings at Petroglyph Beach, a state historical site. No one knows for sure who carved these petroglyphs, possibly by early Stikine Tlingits about 1,000 years ago, but maybe even older as archaeological finds show that man was present here more than 8,000 years ago.

The crew of Mystic Eagle put out a crab pot and caught – a halibut! The crew of Arctic Star took advantage of the lovely day and went golfing at Muskeg Meadows, SE Alaska’s only regulation 9-hole golf course. Several people went kayaking, others visited the history museum in town. (Wrangell began as a Tlingit settlement, then became in turn a Russian fort, a British fort, then an American fort and town, and has experienced several gold rush booms and busts). In the afternoon, several members of the fleet, along with Emmelina, went on a jet boat river trip up the mighty Stikine River, the fastest flowing navigable river in North America, and one of the few remaining wild rivers. A full day indeed, but we are ready to be underway again and off to Meyers Chuck.

Mother Goose - July 26, 2010 - Leg 5, Day 6 - Petersburg to Wrangell

2010-07-29T15:36:00.000-07:00

We woke to clear skies, an auspicious beginning to our transit of Wrangell Narrows. Petersburg lies at the north end of this 22 mile long narrow channel which is a major passage for the Alaska State Ferries and fishing boats, as well as barges. The tide was low, so we could see how narrow the actual passage was, with drying tidal flats to the right and left. We carefully watched the channel markers and kept approaching vessels apprised of our presence. Even so, it was a bit intimidating passing first a tug with barge in tow, stacked high with containers, and then an Alaska State Ferry. We all kept well to the side to allow the ferry to pass; it was moving fast and it was big!

We came out of the south end of the narrows into Sumner Strait and were surrounded by glorious wide-open views of islands and glacier-capped mountains. We cruised smoothly into Wrangell and were berthed at the town’s new Heritage Harbor marina, an excellent facility. After settling in, we walked into town and checked out the sights of historic Wrangell, a friendly community of about 2,000 people located at the north end of Wrangell Island, near the delta of the Stikine River. Gradually, we made our way back to our boats and enjoyed a relaxing time soaking up the late evening sun.

Mother Goose - July 25, 2010 - Leg 6, Day 4 - Petersburg Lay Day

2010-07-29T15:34:00.000-07:00

Today on our lay day in Petersburg several early risers were treated to the sight of a pod of Orcas traveling down Wrangell Narrows just outside the marina, thanks to the eagle-eyed spotting of our naturalist, Emmelina. Most of the crews of the Mother Goose fleet spent the day exploring the town, shopping, and generally enjoying a lazy sunny day, except for a group of avid fishermen from Mystic Eagle who went on a fishing charter into the teeming waters off of Petersburg and came back with enough halibut to share with the fleet. In the late afternoon, everyone gathered aboard Deception for cocktails and potluck appetizers (lots of delicious appetizers!) and we finished up our soiree by celebrating Peggy’s birthday in shipboard style. After eating dessert first, the fleet slowly returned to their boats where dinner was an optional activity! We prepared our boats for tomorrow we head out down Wrangell Narrows.

Mother Goose - July 24, 2010 - Leg 5, Day 4 - Cannery Cove to Petersburg

2010-07-29T15:31:00.002-07:00

Petersburg bound! We awoke to clearer skies this morning and were treated to a glorious view of the snow-capped mountains around our anchorage. We headed out in calm seas into Frederick Sound where to our immense pleasure the whale sightings came fast and furious. Humpbacks blew and sounded all around us (lots of flukes!) and we even saw some Orca whales in the distance, probably transient Orca according to naturalist Emmelina (the ones that hunt marine mammals as opposed to salmon).

We arrived at the charming town of Petersburg on Mitkof Island, a town which celebrates its Norwegian heritage, not to mention its abundant halibut and salmon fishing. Most of the crews went into town for a dinner out and a birthday was celebrated on Mystic Eagle.

Mother Goose - July 23, 2010 - Leg 5, Day 3 - South Sawyer Glacier to Cannery Cove

2010-07-29T15:31:00.000-07:00

On Day 3, we earned our seafaring stripes as we hit some pretty sloppy seas on our way down Stephens Passage. However, the rough water doesn’t bother the aquatic wildlife and we were treated to some good humpback whale sightings. Things smoothed out as we got in the lee of the islands and soon we made a snug harbor in Cannery Cove. The dinghies went into the water and we had our first bear sightings of the trip – a mom with four cubs! Soon we were all cozy in our comfy boats; a good place to be on a rainy night.

Mother Goose - July 22, 2010 - Leg 5, Day 2 - Tracy Arm Cove to South Sawyer Glacier

2010-07-29T15:29:00.000-07:00

We awoke to a clearing day for our trip up Tracy Arm – a truly spectacular trip up the fjord with soaring cliffs above us and over a thousand feet of water depth beneath us. The waterfalls and views of hanging valleys and the striations along the rock faces all attest to the mighty forces of the glaciers that carved this landscape.

Pretty soon we were dodging an increasing number of bergy bits, gleaming blue and white. The boats fell in line behind Deception as she gently threaded her way through the ice. Deception received a call from Adventure Bound, a sightseeing cruise operator, telling us to come in closer to the Sawyer Glacier as there was plenty of ice-free room for our boats. We took his good advice and were rewarded with incredible views of the tidewater glacier, which calved into the sea several times as we watched. There were hundreds of seals dotting the ice floes and we even saw mountain goats on the cliffs above us, not to mention the eagles soaring around us. What an amazing experience! Special thanks to Adventure Bound for their generosity in sharing this special place with us – Alaskans are the best!

Mother Goose - July 21, 2010 - Leg 5, Day 1 - Juneau to Tracy Arm Cove

2010-07-29T15:27:00.000-07:00

Mother Goose is off on Day 1 of Leg 5, leaving Juneau on a misty morning with bald eagles flying overhead escorting us out of the Auke Bay Harbor. Our intrepid mariners coped well with the intermittent patches of fog, but visibility was generally not too poor. It was definitely clear enough to enjoy our first whale sighting of the trip! Humpbacks off of Taku Harbor! Lots of blows and flukes were displayed and the crew of Mystic Eagle enjoyed a particularly close view of the whales. Nothing like a little whale breath to make your day. Just before entering into Tracy Arm we saw our first bergy bits (technical term), small icebergs rising out of the water 3 to 13 feet (the one tenth of the iceberg that shows). We settled into our beautiful anchorage in No Name Cove (a.k.a Tracy Arm Cove). Some enjoyed a well-deserved rest while others set off right away setting crab pots and going ashore to explore.

Mother Goose Leg 4, Day 9 - Swanson Harbor to Juneau

2010-07-20T10:25:00.000-07:00

Today was officially the last day of a trip we’ll never forget. We departed Swanson Harbor to go to Juneau, our final destination. We were astonished by what we saw on the way- a breaching whale. The large whale spun into the air, water rocketing off its sides, displaying its speckled black and white underside. Right after that, another whale playfully slapped its long pectoral fin, putting on a show for us. We believed the whale breached just for us and our last day together to always remember the phenomenal trip and wildlife we encountered.

We all reminisced on all the wonderful aspects of the trip- glaciers, eagles. whales, small fishing towns, bears, socializing together, sea otters, sea lions, nature walks, vast mountain ranges, and the list goes on. We’ll always hold on to the experiences we had together, and the memories of Mother Goose Leg 4 2010 will never be forgotten.

Mother Goose Leg 4, Day 8 - North Sandy Cove to Swanson Harbor

2010-07-20T10:24:00.000-07:00

The first half of the day was spent traveling from North Sandy Cove to Swanson Harbor, a fun trip enriched with a lot of great wildlife! On the way not only were more whales and sea otters spotted but we went past South Marble Island, an island filled with more wildlife than one could ever imagine! The island was a sea lion haul-out, so hundreds of sea lions lay sprawled along the rocks, jumping into the water, and just sitting in the sun. Also on the island, many species of nesting birds sat waiting for their young. Surrounding the island were puffins, an unusual bird with a bright orange beak and feet.

Shortly after we arrived at Swanson Harbor, Emmelina led a fun nature walk on shore. We walked to the point and got to see a beautiful view of the surrounding area, as we walked on many kinds of flowers, lichen, and other flora. Although on our way back, the rain started to fall and the tide began to rise. The water came up to our boots and we were all so wet, it felt as though we had just gotten out of a shower! We were so beyond wet at that point. We laughed and joked until we got into the soaking dinghy, then our boots filled with water to the brim.

Since this was the last full day of the trip, the traditional Last Supper was held which includes a dinner in which everyone contributes their leftover food, a talent show, and a slideshow of pictures taken throughout the leg. And for a special treat, two eagles sat outside our boat for hours, watching the commotion from outside. After we were all stuffed, each boat did something different and great to demonstrate their talents! By the end of the night, everyone had laughed so much, our bellies hurt!

Mother Goose Leg 4, Day 7 - Reid Inlet to North Sandy Cove

2010-07-20T10:22:00.000-07:00

We began the beautiful day with a trip to the whale carcass we had seen the day before only a short way from Reid Inlet. We cruised to the carcass and we saw a bear munching on the blubber. A great way to start the morning! Inside Passage was even luckier and saw a wolf approach the carcass. But, it didn’t take long for the wolf to head the other direction because as soon as he spotted the bear, he realized the whale carcass might not be the place to be at that moment!

After the fun trip to the carcass, the fleet headed across the bay to Tidal Inlet. But, the trip there was no ordinary trip through the ocean. On the way, we saw one brown bear after the next, either lying on shore, running, or even pooping. Also, as we approached the face of a mountain, we were lucky enough to spot many mountain goats both sitting and walking around.

Our final destination for the day was North Sandy Cove, and just after the boats anchored for the night, harbor porpoises were seen happily swimming past. After a great up-close look at those marine mammals, Emmelina led a walk on the long shore surrounding the cove.

Just as we prepared for the night and we thought the day couldn’t get any better, a black bear going for a late night swim in the harbor swam directly in front of deception’s dinghy. We all prepared for the next day, sad that the trip has almost come to an end.

Mother Goose Leg 4, Day 6 - Blue Mouse Cove to Reid Inlet

2010-07-20T10:20:00.000-07:00

The whole point of going to Glacier Bay is to see glaciers, and that’s exactly what we did today! We made our way from Blue Mouse Cove to the base of the Margerie and Grand Pacific Glaciers. It looked as if none of the Grand Pacific was left, but really it was just entirely covered in dirt from its terminal moraine. The Margerie Glacier on the other hand, was everything one could ask for in a glacier! It’s deep blue color and giant cracks were only two of its beautiful features. And to add on top of that, it even calved twice. Calving is when a bit of the glacier breaks off of the face with a loud bang and falls into the water. In addition, just for fun, some of the boats collected “bergi bits” from the water to enjoy in their cocktails later that evening.

After we further explored the magnificent glaciers, the fleet cruised down to the entrance of the Johns Hopkins Inlet but we couldn’t go past Jaw Point, about halfway up the arm, because it is temporarily closed to avoid disturbing newborn seal pups. At the entrance though, lay another massive glacier, sparkling in the intermittent sunshine.

After we left our morning’s glacier adventure, we didn’t realize the next adventure we’d be in for! The boats came into Reid Inlet where we would anchor for the night right in front of Reid Glacier. Emmelina suggested a walk on the Reid Glacier. As Navigator pulled out their dinghy to head towards the shore, their engine stopped and they were stranded in the middle of the bay with the current pushing them steadily away from the anchored boats. Luckily, Deceptions’ dinghy was coming by and we had to save them! At first the two boats were connected by just hands we spun in circles in the current, but after instructions from Brian, the two dinghies made it back to the big boats by traveling in idle with Deception’s dinghy dragging Navigator’s by their bow line, everyone laughing and singing.

After our peaceful walk through waterfalls and the glacier ice, our magnificent glacier adventures for the day had come to an end. We fell asleep to a rare clear sky, as the mountains surrounding the glacier stood clear, making for a beautiful night.

Mother Goose Leg 4, Day 5 - Elfin Cove to Blue Mouse Cove

2010-07-20T10:18:00.000-07:00

Flukes! As we exited Elfin Cove, almost immediately, whales surrounded the boats, spouting and diving as they fed on the sea creatures brought up by the currents in front of the cove. One mama whale was swimming along with her calf, so we took care to leave enough room between us to avoid disturbing the animals.

Also, as we cruised, it seemed like everywhere we looked, we saw sea otters. Emmelina explained that the otter population has rebounded from near extinction to around 1500 otters here in Glacier Bay alone!

After hanging around with the whales for some time, we continued to Bartlett Cove where we would stay for just a few hours. In our time there, some of us took a hike through the dense forest, others ate lunch at the lodge overlooking the vast ocean, and we all were required to watch a video about Glacier Bay National Park.

After an afternoon at Bartlett Cove, we went to Blue Mouse Cove, where we would anchor for the night. As the night approached, the sky finally cleared so we got the opportunity to see the beginning of the glorious mountains surrounding Glacier Bay.

Mother Goose Leg 4, Day 4 - Elfin Cove Lay Day

2010-07-20T10:16:00.000-07:00

We all enjoyed our last day in Elfin Cove, exploring the town even more and enjoying its beautiful atmosphere. Right outside of the harbor, the Fairweather Mountains lay, making their appearance every so often when the weather’s just right. In the evenings, the massive range glows underneath the sunset as the clouds hover above, painting a picture-perfect night.

The day was spent in many ways, but some of which were, going out to fish, relaxing by the boats, or spending two hours out in a dinghy with humpback whales. The fishing trip was a crowd’s favorite, as the people who decided to go split into two boats: salmon and halibut. When they arrived back from the trip, the results were very pleasing; we had caught many halibut, rockfish, sea bass, and salmon. The next highlight was Inside Passage’s dinghy ride out into the harbor where they spent hours surrounded by humpback whales, only about 100 yards away. What a treat!

Because of the great fishing results, we spent the night feasting on all of the day’s catch, whether it was a salmon filet, or halibut fried in bread crumbs. Everyone had their own fish fries, as we found it a good way to spend quality time with the people on our boats and other boats too, and a great way to enjoy a delicious, fresh meal.

Before long, the day had come to an end and our stomachs were stuffed more than we ever thought was possible. A fun next few days in Glacier Bay had us more than excited, and we all got to bed fairly quickly, preparing to enter the 45 mile National Park in just less than 24 hours.

Mother Goose Leg 4, Day 3 - Pelican to Elfin Cove

2010-07-12T15:47:00.000-07:00

Today was a laid-back day filled with relaxing, enjoying the beautiful atmosphere, and doing as we please. The entire fleet had a pleasurable morning to sleep in, as two of the boats departed at 10:30am, while the remaining two stayed at the local, Lisianski Café, to watch the final World Cup game.

We cruised through Lisianski Strait and through a corner of Icy Strait to reach our evening’s destination of Elfin Cove. This is a trip through classic fjords with tall, tree covered mountains on either side – covered mysteriously with clouds on this day.

By the time all the boats met up once again in Elfin Cove, the rain had faded out and the sun had burned through the clouds. Some of us stayed inside, taking advantage of the chance to sit down and talk or read, while others walked along the old boardwalk surrounding this unique little town. Massive Sitka Spruce surrounds the town, and the cute houses, meandering board walks, and friendly people create a charming ambience, forming a welcoming vibe throughout the cove.

We all prepared for the night as the darkness began to settle in and the eagles circled above. The boats rested on the still water as we drifted off, waiting for another exciting day in Elfin Cove to come tomorrow.

Mother Goose Leg 4, Day 2 - Klag Bay to Pelican

2010-07-12T15:46:00.000-07:00

We awoke to the refreshing morning mist and scent of Sitka Spruce encircling the bay. As we departed Klag Bay, the fleet ventured once again into the North Pacific, feeling the rising and falling of the boats in the swells as we watched the waves crash against the shore.

On our way, we came across many more sea otters. One of the otters we passed was using its paws to crack open its prey. Emmelina provided a naturalist’s explanation of the use of tools by marine mammals. Sea otters pick a tool to use and keep it with them, held in a fold of skin, when they dive for food. We were fortunate to pass a seal lion violently slapping a salmon in its mouth to stun it, as seagulls flew above waiting for their share of morsels to be left behind. He was too busy “preparing” his meal to take notice of the boats passing close by.

The waves began to flatten and the ride became more comfortable as the boats entered Lisianksi Straight. We continued up this beautiful fjord until we reached the small town of Pelican. We all went our separate ways as some went to the famous Rosie’s Bar, some walked the length of the boardwalk surrounding the town, and others just relaxed after the long day.

Pelican is suffering the recent loss of their fish processing plant which closed two years ago. The town population is slowly shrinking now that this base of income is gone but the facilities remain and are excellent. Still, there is a sense that this is a town which needs to be visited sooner rather than later.

The night slowly came to an end as the town of Pelican rested under a luminescent rainbow, coming out from the clouds. We were treated to Pelican’s 4th of July fireworks on the 10th, because it has rained every night since the 4th preventing them from holding their celebration. The crashing fireworks came to an end and we all went to bed.

Mother Goose Leg 4, Day 1 - Sitka to Klag Bay

2010-07-12T15:42:00.000-07:00

The Mother Goose fleet began an exciting adventure at 8am this morning as the boats departed calm Sitka waters. The town was enveloped by many gray clouds, but that did not seem to affect everyone’s attitudes, particularly since the past two days had been very sunny. After the usual safety briefing and discussion of open water and narrow, rocky passages to come, each person left the dock with some trepidation but a lot of anticipation. Everyone produced a smile and a wave to the camera, and thus Leg 4 began.

We spent the morning weaving through tricky, rocky, Piehl Passage, as the boats felt the swells of the North Pacific Ocean beneath them. As we cruised through, we spotted sea otters relaxing by the boat, floating on their backs, while opening freshly caught shellfish for an afternoon meal. Eagles were perched on trees and were caught soaring through the air before swooping down to catch any unwary salmon that happened by. Before we knew it, we had arrived ready to anchor, in Klag Bay.

Once in the bay, everyone trekked over to the remains of an old mine on the shore. We searched through ram-shackled out buildings and old, rusted rail car tracks by the entrance to the mine. On the way, we spotted freshly chewed devils club shoots, and later the resultant pile of bear scat not far off. We left the mine with samples of mining cores in our pockets to remain as souvenirs of the day.

After a long day of exploring, the fleet ended with appetizers and laughs on Deception. We all settled down to the very gentle rocking of the boats in this quite cove and prepared to embark on yet another journey.

Mother Goose Leg 3, Day 9 – Goddard Hot Springs to Sitka

2010-07-07T11:38:00.000-07:00

With Sitka only 18 miles to the north, we started our day’s journey at 10 am. We experience a sort of culture shock as we reentered civilization. Not long into our trip we began seeing more and more boats. For most of our adventure we had seen very few boats if we had seen any at all. Now, even the outskirts of a town in Southeast Alaska felt like the rat race.

We wound our way through the numerous rocks, reefs and islets which lie just south of Sitka. There were sea otters everywhere, foraging, frolicking, or just resting among the giant kelp forests. There must have been a lot of fish around because the fishermen, both commercial and recreational, were out in full force. Before long, we turned the last corner and cruised under the bridge into Sitka. We refueled the boats and filled them with water at the fuel dock before making our way to our moorage sites. Normally, we would tie up in the large harbor which sits about a mile and a half north of downtown. Today, however, we got lucky. There is a dock normally used by small cruise ships when they come into Sitka. No cruise ships were schedule to use the dock for a few days, so we were allowed to tie up here. This particular dock sits just a block or two from downtown Sitka, and provided an ideal place for us to go out and explore the town.

After tying up, explore is just what we did. Everyone went their separate ways and walked around Sitka. People shopped, visited churches and historical sites, or just enjoyed the buzz of human activity. In the evening, we all met up for one last cocktail hour and a dinner at a restaurant nearby. Afterwards, we returned for our last night on the boats before departing the next day. We had undertaken an incredible voyage that took us to a number of incredibly beautiful places, but like all things, this too had to come to an end.

Mother Goose Leg 3, Day 8 – Scow Bay to Goddard Hot Springs

2010-07-07T11:37:00.000-07:00

The extra distance that we cruised to take us to Scow Bay significantly decreased the distance we would have to cruise to reach Goddard Hot Springs, our destination for today. Because we did not have far to go and almost all of our cruising would be through protected waters, we did not depart until 10 am. As the radio reports had predicted, the weather had deteriorated a little further. A misty rain fell all around us and visibility was greatly reduced. Fortunately, we had been practicing using our radars when the weather was good so we had no trouble keeping ourselves oriented.

By the time we reached our anchorage at the Goddard Hot Springs, the mist had lifted and only a light rain was falling. After we set our hooks and settled in, Jack and Casey went ashore to check on the state of the hot springs. The Goddard Hot Springs are natural springs heated by volcanic activity deep below the earth’s surface. As the hot water bubbles up, it is collected in a reservoir and channeled through pipes into two large, round tubs. Water from a nearby cold-water stream is also brought in through pipes, so the temperature of the tubs can be regulated. The shore team drained the tubs and refilled them with nice warm water before returning to the fleet to ferry people to shore.

Everyone visited the hot springs and spent at least an hour soaking the warm water. Each of the tubs is inside a small wooden building, which sits in a lush meadow on a hillside overlooking the bay. The sheds are open on the side facing the bay, so the beautiful view is visible when soaking in the tub. All too soon, it was time to return to the boats and prepare for our last supper at sea.

The last supper was held on Deception and Mystic Eagle, which were rafted together. As usual, there was an over-abundance of incredible food. We started with a great spread of delicious appetizers, continued on to an amazing variety of delicious main courses and finished with some unbelievable desserts. After dinner, we held our traditional talent show. Each boat put together some kind of submission, whether it was a reading from a book, a poem about the trip, a skit, a video or a song. We are always amazed at the hidden talent within the groups we have and tonight was no exception. Finally, at about midnight, we returned to our boats with full bellies and high spirits.

Mother Goose Leg 3, Day 7 – Redfish Bay to Scow Bay

2010-07-07T11:36:00.000-07:00

The good weather that had seen us from Coronation Island to Baranof yesterday was forecasted to rapidly deteriorate. When we awoke this morning, a persistent rain was falling and a breeze was blowing. Since most of our day’s travel would be exposed to the open ocean, we departed promptly at 8 am to beat the winds. After cruising back out of Redfish Bay, we turned right and continued up the coast. Visibility was poor, but the sea conditions could have been much worse. A light wind stirred the water’s surface and 3 or 4 foot swells rolled in off the Pacific. It was certainly a lazy cruising day, with the mist closed in around us. As the skippers kept diligent watch, most of the crews napped or relaxed in their salons.

An hour or so into our day’s cruise, Deception saw some unexpected breakers or whitewater off in the mist. There was no obstruction listed on the chart, so we proceeded a little further to see what was up ahead. As we got close, we could see that the commotion was being caused by a number of humpback whales. We passed 5 or 6 individuals, and it’s likely many more were hidden by the mist. These animals were being very active on the surface, splashing around with their pectoral fins and flukes. Two of these whales put on quite a display just off the port side of the fleet. After this moment of excitement, we left these playful whales behind and continued forward.

Our original destination for today was Stillwater Cove, but due to the weather forecast we decided to push ahead and finish up all of our cruising that was exposed to the open ocean. So, we motored on for another hour to reach Scow Bay. The entrance to Scow Bay is very narrow and we arrived at low tide, so we very slowly nudged our way through the entrance with trees hanging so close to the boats we could just about reach out and touch them. Once through the narrows, we dropped anchor in the small bay. Rolling, forested hills stretched out around us and, except for the rain there was no indication of the weather outside. After anchoring, most everyone was in the mood for a mellow afternoon. Some napped, others read or played games. It certainly felt good to relax after some of our great adventures. As the evening wore on, we enjoyed our second to last dinner at sea and settled in for the night.

Mother Goose Leg 3, Day 6 – Coronation Island to Redfish Bay

2010-07-07T11:33:00.000-07:00

We arose this morning and said goodbye to the beautiful Coronation Island. Misty clouds threaded across the rocky top of Pin Peak and the waters of Egg Harbor lay completely still. Not a breath of wind stirred the ocean’s surface as we hauled anchor and cruised north out of the bay towards Baranof Island. A long stretch of open ocean lay between us and our destination, so for the first few hours we cruised with Southeast Alaska on our right and Japan off to our left. Fortunately for us, the weather could not have been more ideal for such a crossing. A few gentle swells rolled in from the North Pacific, creating only a slight rising and falling motion and doing nothing to disturb the glassy surface of the water. The seabirds were out in full force. We saw common murres, rhinoceros auklets, horned puffins, a sooty shearwater and we were even visited by a few black-footed albatross. These giant birds looked almost prehistoric, like huge pterodactyls soaring across the ocean. Each bird circled our boat a number of times before sailing off into the distance. It really was a treat to get to see these incredible birds in their natural habitat.

Due to the great weather, the long crossing was both fast and smooth. Humpback whales were spouting left and right and, just before we reached the southern tip of Baranof, a group of Dall’s porpoise came racing up to the fleet and began riding on our bow waves. The incredible wildlife sightings continued as we cruised up the west coast of Baranof Island, passing a number of Steller sea lion haul outs. These enormous marine mammals climb up on isolated rocks to dry off and rest between hunting trips. Their huge, tawny bodies were strewn across the rocks by the dozen. Here and there, a large bull stood prominently, tilting his head back toward the sky and posturing for all of the disinterested females around him. We left these large, lazy pinnipeds to their lolling and continued up the coast.

Shortly before reaching Redfish Bay we made a detour, turning right into Puffin Bay and onward into Forevergreen Basin. This tiny, secluded anchorage sits in the shadow of a ring of huge, green mountains. The peaks are treeless and covered in what looks like an alpine meadow. The crew of Navigator made the astute observation that it felt like sitting on a boat in an alpine lake somewhere in the Cascade Mountains. After soaking in the scenery, we turned around and headed back out Puffin Bay toward our destination for the evening.

Forevergreen Basin was incredibly beautiful, but Redfish Bay left little to be desired in terms of scenery. Forested hillsides swept downward to the water’s edge and, at the head of the bay, a lush green meadow spread along the shore where a creek flowed in. All around us salmon were jumping, gathering in the estuary to prepare for their journey upstream to spawn. We anchored the boats and enjoyed a relaxing afternoon. Some people chose to kayak, while others explored in their dinghies. In the evening, we were amazed to see an enormous brown bear step out onto the shore near the mouth of the stream. This behemoth made his way slowly down the beach, walking steadily and surely. Every now and then he lifted his nose to test the air, but he did not seem to be bothered by our presence. We snapped photos and watched the large predator through binoculars before he finally disappeared in the forest. What an incredible way to end a fantastic wildlife day in Southeast Alaska!

Mother Goose Leg 3, Day 5 – Coronation Island Lay Day

2010-07-07T11:31:00.000-07:00

Everyone enjoyed a relaxed and leisurely morning on our lay day in Egg Harbor. Everyone, that is, but the fishermen. Pat and his little boat full of anglers left at around 8 am, eager to get out there and catch the monsters of the deep. The rest of the fleet arose a little later and went their separate ways, some people exploring in their dinghies, others reading, cooking, or just generally lounging around the boats. The fisherpeople returned at around 11 am, having caught a great haul of lingcod and rockfish. Brian and Pat promptly filleted the fish and distributed the meat. Before long, Pat was off with his next load of people. He was kind enough to act as a sort of volunteer fishing charter service for the day, taking those members of the fleet with fishing licenses out to drop a line in the water.

In the early afternoon, a small group went ashore for a forest walk guided by our naturalist Casey. After landing on the beach, we found a nice spot to enter the forest and promptly stepped into another world. In this temperate rainforest everything was covered by at least 3 inches of dense moss. Small plants grew up through the moss carpet, including some beautiful wild orchids which sent up spikes of beautiful, tiny purple flowers. As we meandered through the trees the setting was so still and peaceful that someone remarked it felt like being in a cathedral. High above us, the dense canopy of evergreens spread out, letting in only dappled sunlight. The thick branches were covered in lichens, mosses, and ferns, making them look thicker still. In a small clearing, we found the skeleton of a deer. This animal must have been one of many deer on the island, because lots of game trails and deer tracks littered the forest floor. After exploring the forest, we returned to the beach and had a look around before piling into the dinghies and returning to the boats.

Everyone got a chance to go out fishing with Pat, and they certainly chose the right person to go fishing with. Pat knew just the spot to put a line in the water, and everyone got to pull in plenty of fish. Jack caught the prize fish of the day, a 4 foot lingcod which swallowed the fish he was reeling in whole and got caught instead.

While the last group was out fishing, Casey went ashore and went on a hike through the forest. After scrambling through the dense forest for about an hour, he emerged on the rocky slopes of Pin Peak, the tallest mountain on Coronation Island. The weather had cleared and the sun was shining as he reached the craggy summit. From the top of the mountain, the boats were like little white toys. Even the soaring eagles were far below the peak. From below, the fleet could clearly see him standing atop the peak.

When we all had returned from our respective adventures, everyone settled in for a nice meal and a quiet evening. Tomorrow we would be leaving this little piece of paradise in the Pacific Ocean and cruising north to Baranof Island. For now, however, we sat at anchor in our little bay, contented.

Mother Goose Leg 3, Day 4 – Craig to Coronation Island

2010-07-07T11:29:00.000-07:00

In Southeast Alaska, the wind generally picks up in the afternoon as the sun rises and warms the land. The mornings are usually calm and still, perfect for pleasant cruising. To take advantage of this phenomenon, we left Craig at 8 am and set out for Coronation Island. Our journey took us through a number of narrow, winding channels. The scenery was stunning, with emerald isles and a smattering of small, forested islets. The rain came and went, and we were even treated to a brief period of sunshine. The wildlife became denser and denser as we cruised along. We saw humpback whales, sea otters, and a multitude of seabirds, all feeding in the productive waters.

Before we knew it, we emerged out into the open Pacific Ocean, and Coronation Island appeared in the distance. Aside from a gentle ocean swell, the crossing was very flat. It did not take us long to cruise across the open stretch, around to the northern shores of Coronation Island. We pulled into Egg Harbor in the early afternoon. The local native peoples traditionally used this bay as a meeting spot for expeditions to the remote seabird colonies where they would harvest eggs. The bay derives its name from this ancient practice.

After dropping anchor, Casey led a dinghy tour of the surrounding area. We saw a multitude of seabirds including pelagic cormorants, pigeon guillemots, common murres, rhinoceros auklets, and marbled murrelets. A lone humpback whale spouted off in the distance, but we decided not to venture out that far in our little dinghies. Instead, we headed east, planning on exploring the neighboring bay. To our great surprise and pleasure, another humpback whale spouted up ahead, this one much closer than the last. We made our way closer to the animal and shut off our engines to watch and listen as it swam in the near shore waters. This particular individual must have been feeling a little exuberant, because it repeatedly slapped its flukes on the water’s surface and even lifted its entire hind end out of the water a few times. Finally, the whale seemed to tire of this game and moved on. The dinghy flotilla motored up the bay and went ashore to explore the beach and tide pools before returning to the fleet for dinner.

While the dinghy tour was taking place, Pat and Steve took the Kingfisher out and did a little fishing. They had great success, returning with two big lingcod and number of big healthy rockfish. Upon their return, the fish were promptly cleaned and filleted. The crew of Deception enjoyed a wonderful seafood stew, with fresh local spot prawns and the rockfish that was caught today. Before long, the light was fading and it was time to go to bed.

Mother Goose Leg 3, Day 3 – Hydaburg to Craig

2010-06-30T11:46:00.000-07:00

We cast off from the docks in Hydaburg at 10 am and motored out of the harbor. Our route would take us through the Tlevak Narrows, known to the local native people as “skookum chuck” which means “fast water.” With every ebb and flood of the tides, vast volumes of water race through this narrow passage, creating enormous whirlpools and, at times, a vertical difference of as much as 12 feet between either side of the narrows. Of course, we timed our departure from Hydaburg so that we would arrive at the narrows just before slack tide. Thus, as we cruised through the channel, the waters were only slightly turbulent and a few small whirlpools and eddies spun languidly. Before long, we had pushed our way through what oncoming current there was, and cruised out of Tlevak Narrows towards Craig.

About half an hour after leaving the narrows, we rounded a rocky point with a large kelp bed growing off its tip. Just outside the kelp bed, a tall, black blade suddenly began to rise up from the surface of the water. It was soon followed by another, this one much more bent and gnarled. It was two bull orcas, cruising through the shallow waters near the kelp bed. One of these large animals had an irregular dorsal fin, giving him a very characteristic appearance. These magnificent animals were traveling the opposite direction as we were, and every member of the fleet was able to get a good look at them as they glided through the green waters. All too soon, they were behind us and disappearing out of sight. Happy to have had such a great encounter, we rounded the point and continued onward.

Craig was visible in the distance when we spotted a humpback whale off the port bow. We had seen at least one humpback each day since we began our voyage. Like the others we had seen so far, they put in a brief appearance, showed us their flukes and disappeared into the deep. The fleet continued onward, and within an hour we were docking in Craig’s north harbor.

The small town of Craig was bustling when we arrived. Commercial fishing boats filled the harbor, mending and coiling nets in preparation for the next opening. The hotels and fishing lodges in town seemed to be doing a lot of business, and cargo was being loaded onto a barge down at the waterfront. Everywhere, eagles swooped and soared in the sky. Some were perched majestically on pilings, while others fought not-so-majestically over fish carcasses. A small general store, a few hotels, a gift shop and a liquor store made up the downtown. We explored until there was nothing else left to explore before returning to the boats for the evening.

Mother Goose Leg 3, Day 2 – Charlie’s Cove to Hydaburg

2010-06-30T11:34:00.000-07:00

A beautiful misty morning greeted us when we awoke in Charlie’s Cove. Our scheduled departure time was 10 am, so we took our time and enjoyed a relaxing beginning to our day. After breakfast, we began raising anchor and began our trip to Hydaburg. As our boats slipped out of Charlie’s Cove, we saw a sea otter lounging in the kelp as well as some harbor seals hauled out on a nearby rock. Marine mammal sightings are a very common occurrence in this part of the world, and we felt lucky to be cruising in such company.

Hydaburg is only a short distance away from Charlie’s Cove, so we wouldn’t be cruising more than a few hours today. Before long, a plume of mist appeared off the port bow. This mist was followed shortly after by a large dark gray back topped with a knobby dorsal fin and, finally, by the enormous tail (called the flukes) of a humpback whale. Each animal’s flukes are colored with a unique pattern of black and white markings. By comparing fluke photos, scientists are able to identify individuals and track them from year to year. Unfortunately, this animal only put in a short appearance before vanishing into the still waters.

As we cruised on, the skies went from overcast to partly cloudy, and the sun shone down across the verdant landscape. We reached Hydaburg in the early afternoon and pulled into the harbor. After all the boats were tied up and everyone was settled, we ventured into the small town. Near the head of the dock was a small building which served as the administrative office for the Haida Cooperative Association, a group which runs many of the tribe’s affairs. In this office we met a wonderful woman named Lisa, who gave us a ride to the tribe’s carving shed on the other side of town. Here, master carvers and their apprentices were carving all sorts of beautiful handcrafts, including two enormous totem poles that were being carved to replace older poles which had fallen victim to the ravages of time. The original poles were laid out on sawhorses, and the new poles were laid alongside. Figure by figure, the carvers were creating replicas of the weathered old poles. Everyone was very friendly, and they told us all about the carving process, showed us their tools, and some of their finished pieces.

When we were finally able to tear ourselves away from the carving shed, we explored the rest of the town. Besides a little market and a park with a number of incredible totem poles, Hydaburg consisted mostly of small homes, friendly dogs and even friendlier people. We returned to the boats in the evening very happy with our visit to town. After dinner, the crew from Inside Passage went out in their dinghy and set their crab pots. An amazing sunset turned the whole western sky a rosy peach color and we were all in bed long before it had faded into darkness.

Mother Goose Leg 3, Day 1 - Ketchikan to Charlie’s Cove

2010-06-30T11:30:00.000-07:00

Our latest adventure began at 7 am, on an incredibly calm morning in Ketchikan, Alaska. The weather for the past two days had been horrendous. Strong winds blew the continual rainfall sideways, as whitecaps covered the Tongass Narrows. So, everyone was very pleased to wake up to partly cloudy skies and not a breath of wind. The weather conditions made our departure easy, as everyone cast off from the docks in Bar Harbor and motored out into the still waters of the Tongass Narrows. Each of the goslings fell into line behind Deception, and thus Leg 3 of Mother Goose 2010 had begun.
We began our day by cruising south, away from Ketchikan and out into Clarence Strait. Because of the foul weather over the past few days, we expected to see some bumpy seas as we cruised through the straits and into the exposed waters of Dixon Entrance. As we cruised along, however, only a few small waves rippled the ocean’s surface. The seabirds were out in full force. Everywhere we looked, we saw groups of common murres floating along the surface. These handsome tuxedo-print birds “fly” underwater to pursue the small fish on which they feed. In this part of the world, the chicks had recently grown large enough to leave the nest. When this happens, the males lead their single chick out to good foraging grounds and teach them how to fish. As we cruised along, we saw several of these father-juvenile pairs fishing in the still waters.

As we rounded the southern tip of Prince of Wales Island and became fully exposed to the Pacific Ocean, a bit of ocean swell caused the boats to bob up and down. Still, the wind remained low and the ocean’s surface smooth, giving us a ride that was smooth overall. Along the way, we spotted several humpback whales feeding along the rocky shoreline. We weren’t able to get as close a look at these animals as we might have liked, but we took it as a good sign of potential encounters to come. Before long, we moved in behind the protection of the barrier islands. We rounded a headland called Point Marsh, and wove our way through a series of small islets and exposed rocks until, at last, we reached Charlie’s Cove, our anchorage for the evening. Immediately after we pulled in, we spotted 3 Sitka black-tailed deer on the shore, a bald eagle soaring over the boats, and a sea otter frolicking in a kelp bed.

After everyone had dropped anchor, we all took time to get settled in, nap, read, and just generally relax in the beautiful setting. As dinnertime rolled around, we all gathered on Deception to enjoy appetizers, cocktails, and a wonderful potluck style dinner. We feasted on freshly baked bread, wild rice, salad, wild Alaskan salmon, and boysenberry pie. We dispersed for the evening well-fed and ready to crawl into bed after our long day of cruising.

Mother Goose Leg 2, Day 7 - Punchbowl Lagoon to Ketchikan

2010-06-28T10:25:00.001-07:00

Early this morning, the crews of Deception and Mystic Eagle joined together for a now-traditional pre-departure breakfast. With bellies full of bacon, eggs, and coffee, we raised our anchors and left the beautiful Walker Cove. It was now almost second nature for us to turn left and continue our trip through Behm Canal. Once again, Deception was towing the Miss Claire and our crew had the pleasure of Stan and Cheryl’s company for our longest day’s cruise. The seas were calm, but the Misty Fjords were certainly living up to their name. Wispy clouds threaded through the trees, giving the forests an almost ethereal appearance.

Shortly after leaving Walker Cove we passed the famous New Eddystone Rock. This towering spire thrusts 237 feet above the water’s edge. A few hardy trees cling to the top of the rock, but other than that the only vegetation is shrubs and grass. Captain George Vancouver named the rock for its resemblance to the lighthouse rock off of Plymouth, England. He described the rock as looking like a ship under sail, and it wasn’t too much of a stretch of the imagination to see the silhouette of an old tall ship making its way up the canal. We left the impressive landmark behind us and continued on toward Ketchikan.

Before long, we saw the signature rooster-tail splashes of Dall’s porpoise racing through the green waters. These little marine mammals must have been feeling playful because they didn’t take long to swim to our boats and frolic in the bow waves. Once they had their fill, they darted off across the channel and disappeared in the distance. The rest of the day was smooth sailing. High wind warnings had been issued for the surrounding areas, but when we left Behm Canal and cruised up into Tongass Narrows, the seas were flat and the wind was calm. It was only a few short hours before we began to see the southern edge of Ketchikan. Upon arriving, we tied up at the fuel dock and refilled our boats before heading to the Bar Harbor Marina, just north of downtown. Everyone met up for one last (outstanding) dinner at the Bar Harbor Restaurant. We shared stories and reminisced about our adventure, each of us sad to have our adventure ending, but leaving with memories we would treasure forever.

Mother Goose Leg 2, Day 6 - Walker Cove to Punchbowl Lagoon

2010-06-28T10:24:00.001-07:00

Before leaving Walker Cove, we checked our crab pots and were pleased to see that this too was an excellent spot for crabbing. Between all of the pots we caught 17 crab. These, like those we had caught over the previous days were promptly cleaned and cooked to be ready for the fleet’s consumption. This trip had made us experts in crab cuisine. We ate cracked crab, crab dips, crab salad, crab louie, crab omelets. The list goes on and on. So, with our newest supply of crab taken care of, we hauled anchor and continued our journey, this time with Miss Claire in tow behind Deception.
Punchbowl Lagoon is only a short cruise down Behm Canal from Walker Cove. It is actually a small offshoot of the much larger Rudyerd Bay, which extends much farther back into the mountainous mainland. We turned into Rudyerd Bay and then into Punchbowl Lagoon where we were blown away by the incredible scenery. Here, the huge rocky mountains were scooped out in a large glacial cirque, creating the bowl-like landscape which gives the area its name. Sheer cliffs rose up all around our anchorage, dwarfing our boats with their towering heights. All around, thin streams of water leapt from edges of the mountains, free-falling for thousands of feet and splashing down into the bay. We decided that this anchorage would be suitable for our purposes, and dropped anchor.

After a short break for lunch, we hopped into our dinghies and embarked upon another dinghy exploration. This time, we left Punchbowl Lagoon and headed inland, up toward the head of Rudyerd Bay. It was a long trip, so we opened up the throttle and sped up the length of the bay. All around us, the scenery continued to amaze with its beauty. Here and there, wide grassy expanses spread out along the shoreline. We watched intently for bears, but did not see any on this trip. When we had thoroughly explored the bay, we turned around and headed back to the boats. Shortly after our arrival, Inside Passage again spotted a bear on the beach. This time it was a large black bear, which lumbered down the beach for a few minutes before disappearing in the forest.

As this was our last night at sea, we rafted Mystic Eagle and Deception together and held our traditional last supper and talent show. The food was incredible and as usual there was far too much for us to possibly finish. The main course was all we could eat of freshly caught Dungeness crab. After dinner, we began the talent show. We were a talented group, and the submissions had us laughing, tearing up, and grateful for the wonderful experiences we had been able to enjoy over the past week. When the talent show wound up, we said our goodnights and returned to our boats to get some much needed rest.

Mother Goose Leg 2, Day 5 - Fitzgibbon Cove to Walker Cove

2010-06-24T12:32:00.000-07:00

Any trace of the wind that had blown the day before had disappeared when we hauled anchor and left Fitzgibbon Cove. Our day’s run was not a long one. We again turned left into Behm Canal and continued onwards, keeping Revillagigedo Island to our right and the mainland to our left as we had been doing throughout our expedition. The scenery continued to impress us, with rocky crags towering thousands of feet above us and the seabed more than 1800 feet below us. We passed the mouth of the Chickamin River, which flows down a broad, densely forested valley before emptying into Behm Canal. The silt from the river gave the water an incredible blue-green hue. It was not long before we passed Hut Point and turned into the mouth of Walker Cove.

If everything we had seen before was beautiful, Walker Cove was nothing short of gorgeous. It is difficult to put into words the grandeur of this setting. Mountains higher than any we had yet seen soared up from the water’s edge at vertical or near-vertical angles. Hanging lakes high up on the mountainsides fed raging waterfalls which cascaded and tumbled nearly a mile down exposed rock before plunging into the sea. The area’s glacial history was readily observed here, with a multitude hanging valleys and glacial cirques all around us. The sheer rock walls on the either side of the cove were marked with long horizontal grooves, remnants of deep gouges dug thousands of years ago by large boulders frozen into the glaciers and dragged for many miles against the underlying bedrock. Despite the inhospitable conditions, life thrived here. Trees and shrubs clung to the impossibly steep slopes. Seabirds and seals swam in the deep water of the cove.

We anchored up near the mouth of a stream, next to a long, low grassy shoreline which looked like perfect bear spotting territory. After everyone was all settled in, everyone climbed into their dinghies and Casey led a tour up to the head of Walker Cove. The bears did not put in an appearance, but judging by the scenery they couldn’t have been too far away. At one shallow beach we landed the dinghies and got out to look around. A stream flowed onto the beach from back in the forest and tall sedge grass grew all over the top of the beach. Huge rocky peaks sat on either side of the beach, dwarfing the meadow, the forest, and us with their gargantuan slopes. We poked around the beach for a while longer, then climbed aboard the dinghies and returned to where the fleet was anchored.

Anchored next to us was a small aluminum boat called Miss Claire. When we returned, her crew came over to Deception in their dinghy and told us that they were having engine trouble and asked if we would be willing to tow them back to Ketchikan. We were more than happy to oblige, and so our fleet gained another boat for the next two days. Miss Claire’s crew consisted of Stan, Cheryl, and their dog Oly. They were very friendly people and they made a good short-term addition to our crew.

Shortly after dinner, an excited Morgan of Inside Passage got on the radio to tell us that she had spotted a bear. Sure enough, over on the beach right by where our boats were anchored, a large brown bear was lounging in the sedge grass. The bear did not seem at all bothered by our presence and he remained on the beach a while longer before ambling up into the forest. It certainly was a good way to end a fantastic day.

Mother Goose Leg 2, Day 4 - Yes Bay to Fitzgibbon Cove

2010-06-24T12:30:00.000-07:00

This morning we pulled our crab pots one last time and once again found them filled with a multitude of delicious crabs. With that done, we left the beautiful Yes Bay behind and cruised onward toward our next anchorage, Fitzgibbon Cove. We motored out of Yes Bay and turned left to continue our voyage up Behm Canal. The sun was shining and the waters were pleasant and calm. We hadn’t traveled more than a mile when suddenly, off in the distance, a misty column appeared that could only be the blow of a whale. Soon, a tall black dorsal fin cut through the surface of the water, then another and another. We had spotted a pod of orcas swimming, fishing, and frolicking in the waters of Behm Canal. As we approached, the whales switched directions and traveled along with the fleet, coming very close to the boats. At one point, two of the animals swam directly below Mystic Eagle! It soon became clear that there were more animals than we first believed. There were at least two large bulls, their enormous black dorsal fins towering 6 feet or more above the water’s surface. A mother and calf swam with the group, as well as a number of females and an adolescent male. All in all, there were likely 10 or more animals spread out around the boats and across the channel. These magnificent animals stayed with us for around 45 minutes, swimming alongside us as we cruised onward. They treated us to quite a show, tail-lobbing and spyhopping right near the boats, giving us an incredible view of their enormous black and white bodies. All good things must come to an end, and as we turned right and continued on into Behm Narrows, the whales dropped back and went back to fishing.

We pressed on toward Fitzgibbon Cove, elated after our incredible encounter with the orcas. As we cruised between Bell Island and Revillagigedo Island, we passed the site of the now closed Bell Island Resort. This remote lodge has been around for a very long time and was once a favorite destination of celebrities such as John Wayne and Bing Crosby. The facility looks like it could use remodeling, but all of the original buildings are still standing. All day, the mountains around us had been increasing in height and they were now consistently capped in snow. We turned into Fitzgibbon Cove in the early afternoon and dropped anchor. The wind had picked up a bit, so we were glad to hole up in our sheltered anchorage. Encouraged by our prior success, we set crab pots immediately upon arriving. Our afternoon was spent relaxing and enjoying the beautiful scenery around us. Across Behm Canal, two particularly magnificent peaks rose up, cloaked in crisp white snow. Before long, the sun was setting and the moon hung high over the mountains. Once again worn out by an incredible day cruising in Southeast Alaska, everyone went to bed and dreamed about what the next day would bring.

Mother Goose Leg 2, Day 3 - Yes Bay Lay Day

2010-06-24T12:25:00.000-07:00

The sun rose into a cloudless blue sky over the beautiful Yes Bay this morning. Those members of the fleet who had decided to go fishing rose early as well, making their way over to the lodge to prepare for a day hunting the monsters of the deep. The rest of the fleet made a more relaxed morning of it, waiting until around 9:30 am to climb aboard Deception and head over to Bailey Bay for a hike to Shelokem Lake and the natural hot springs found there. It was a perfect morning to be cruising in Southeast Alaska. The sun was shining, the seas were glassy, the air was warm, and the scenery was spectacular. Bailey Bay lies just up Behm Canal from Yes Bay, and it took us only around 45 minutes to get there. Upon arriving, we anchored up and headed ashore to begin our hike.

Healthy, lush forest covered the landscape as we walked toward the lake. Dense undergrowth crowded around the trail, giving us the feeling we were walking through a living green tunnel. All around us were berry bushes: blueberries, salmonberries, thimbleberries, currants and more. Only a few of the berries were nearing ripeness, but in a few short weeks this whole area would be a bear heaven. As we continued onward, we began to hear the roar of rushing water. Our trail led us right across a wide, but shallow stream which tumbled down the hillside. Fortunately, we came prepared with rubber boots or water shoes. Carefully, we forded the stream and continued onward. We soon heard the roar of a much larger waterfall up ahead. As we emerged on the shore of Lake Shelokem, we found ourselves directly at the top of an enormous waterfall that cascaded down a steep rocky escarpment and eventually flowed down into the head of Bailey Bay. It was an incredible experience to stand at the top of the falls and breathe in the fresh air with a vast expanse of wilderness stretching out below us.

In Chinook jargon “Shelokem” means “looking glass” or “mirror.” We could certainly see how the lake earned its name, reflecting the rocky mountain peaks which rose up on all sides. The Alaska State Forest Service provides a canoe in which visitors can paddle across the lake to the hot springs, but it appeared that someone else had arrived before us and taken the boat. So, we continued on the trail along the shore of the lake. The terrain was much more difficult on this stretch, and the going was slow. The landscape was composed of huge granite boulders all jumbled on top of one another, with a forest grown on top. As a result, we found our trail passed through a number of small caves and overhangs. Before long, we saw two people and a dog paddling toward us in the canoe. The told us we were had about half a mile to go, but that the hot springs were hotter than usual and they hadn’t even been able to go in them. So, we sat down there on the edge of the lake and ate our lunch. We decided to turn around and make our way back down to Deception. We arrived on the beach about an hour and a half later, tired and happy. What an incredible day!

As the shore party was having its grand adventure, the fisherpeople were having a great day of their own. They returned to Yes Bay just as Deception was pulling in to anchor. Their prizes of the day: a 40 lb halibut, a 60 lb halibut, a 25 lb king salmon, a 30 lb king salmon and quite a few rockfish. Not bad for one day on the water! Everyone was worn out from a fun, adventure-filled day. We had set our crab pots before leaving for the day’s activities and we returned to find them loaded with enormous Dungeness crab. They were quickly cooked, cracked and distributed amongst the fleet. The rest of the afternoon and evening was spent relaxing in the sun, eating dinner and for most of us, retiring early.

Mother Goose Leg 2, Day 2 – Naha Bay to Yes Bay

2010-06-24T12:23:00.000-07:00

After our late night by the bonfire, we decided on the leisurely departure time of 10 am. Deception had put out its crab pots before the bonfire the evening prior, and Brian Jr. and Josh picked them up in the morning. They returned successful, with 4 keepers ready to be cleaned and cooked. When everyone was ready to go, we weighed anchor and left Naha Bay. Once we were back in Behm Canal, we took a right and continued onward toward Misty Fjords. Not a breath of wind stirred the surface of the water and we might as well have been cruising on a mill pond. This made for perfect wildlife spotting conditions. In addition to a number of seabirds, including some rare and interesting species, we saw a large group of Dall’s porpoise feeding in the distance. The black and white animals streaked through the water, sending up tall rooster-tails of water each time they surfaced. The crew of Navigator was especially lucky, as these playful porpoises decided to come ride their bow. Hopefully this was the first of many marine mammal sightings for this trip.

Our anchorage for the evening was Yes Bay, home of the Yes Bay Fishing Lodge. This somewhat odd name is actually derived from the language of the local native people. “Yas” means mussel to the Tlingit, and the bay was certainly full of the shiny black shellfish, which coated every surface of the rocks near the water’s edge. At some point in the area’s history, Yas Bay became Yes Bay, the name it currently holds. We anchored our boats in a small cove just around the corner from the beautiful Yes Bay Lodge. Having called ahead, we were able to make reservations for all 13 members of the fleet to eat dinner up at the lodge. So, at 5 pm we dinghied over to the lodge’s dock and headed inside. The service was wonderful and we enjoyed drinks and appetizers (including delicious crab cakes) before sitting down to eat a feast of caesar salad, freshly caught halibut, and sautéed vegetables, followed by a delicious chocolate cake. No one was hungry when our plates were taken away.

We were so impressed by the lodge and by the beauty of the surrounding area that we decided to postpone our departure and spend an extra day in Yes Bay. Some of our crew will be going out fishing during the lay day, while others will be heading to the nearby Bailey Bay to enjoy a hike to a beautiful lake and some natural hot springs. Just another day on Mother Goose 2010!

Mother Goose Leg 2, Day 1 – Ketchikan to Naha Bay

2010-06-22T14:57:00.000-07:00

A beautiful, calm Ketchikan morning greeted us on the first day of our newest adventure. Everyone was eager to cast off and begin our excursion into the wilderness, so we cruised out of the harbor at 8 am and began our journey to the Misty Fjords National Monument. We turned right and headed up Tongass Narrows, moving through one last traffic jam of cruise ships and float planes before leaving the outskirts of town and the cares of the civilized world behind. About 10 miles north of Ketchikan, we passed Totem Bight Historical Park, which houses a beautiful and ornate replica of a Tlingit long house as well as a collection of impressive totem poles. These artifacts stand on the site of a summer fishing village utilized by the native people before the arrival of the European colonists. The towering totem poles stood a solemn watch on the grassy hillside as we cruised slowly past.
Shortly after passing Totem Bight, we left the Tongass Narrows and headed inland, up Behm Canal. The waters were flat calm, the sky was a pleasant high overcast, and the air was comfortably warm. The fleet wove through a series of small islands, keeping Revillagigedo Island to our right, as we would be doing for the next week. After only a few hours of cruising up the beautiful Behm Canal we turned into Naha Bay, our destination for the night. Mystic Eagle was able to tie up to the small dock near the head of the bay, and Navigator rafted along her port side. Deception and Inside Passage rafted together farther out in the bay.
After taking an hour or two for lunch, our naturalist Casey led a walk from the head of the dock up onto a boardwalk than runs along the shore of the nearby Roosevelt Lagoon. This peaceful lagoon is home to an abundance of wildlife including black bears, moose, beaver, mink, and rare trumpeter swans. Our cheerful chatter likely scared many of these animals away, but we still enjoyed the peaceful beauty of the temperate rainforest. Along the way, we saw where bears had dug up the roots of skunk cabbage, one of their favorite foods in the early summer before the bulk of the berries ripen. We also saw signs of Sitka black-tailed deer and found some of the first ripe blueberries and salmonberries.
When we returned from the walk, everyone piled into their dinghies to check out the lagoon from the water. To enter Roosevelt Lagoon, your entry must be timed perfectly with the tide. Enter on too low a tide, and you will find a 4 foot vertical difference between the lagoon and the bay, with a waterfall raging down the rapids. Linger too long after the high tide and the same rapids will trap you inside the lagoon. Once inside, we followed the water’s edge, looking for wildlife and taking in the beautiful scenery. Before long, we had spotted the first black bear of the trip, standing in a grassy patch on the shoreline, munching away at the vegetation. The wind was blowing in our faces, carrying our scent and the noise of our motors away from the animal. We were able to get quite close, offering us an incredible look at this animal in its natural setting.
Finally, our thirst for adventure quenched, we returned to the boats. Everyone came over to Deception at 7 for appetizers, cocktails, and a delicious salmon feast. After dinner, with full bellies and light hearts, we went back ashore for a bonfire. Near the small dock, there was a shelter with a fire pit. After a few attempts, we were able to coax a great campfire out of some wet wood we found nearby. As the fire blazed, we shared stories, jokes and tips on cooking the perfect s’more (for the record, Bud Gould is the reigning grandmaster of s’more making). As the moon set, we made our way back to the boats and retired after our long and busy day.

Mother Goose Leg 1, Day 24 – Foggy Bay to Ketchikan

2010-06-16T15:41:00.000-07:00

Our last lifting of the anchors on leg 1 of Mother Goose 2010… some threatened to never un-raft (ever!) but we all reluctantly made the final cruise up to Ketchikan, AK. After we all got settled into Bar Marina people started to pack and make hotel and travel arrangements. All except the boys of Mystic Eagle that is. Apparently they were having too much fun and weren’t ready to return to their regular lives quite yet. Conveniently enough, Mystic Eagle was available for leg 2 through Misty Fjords National Monument and Rick, Hal, & RJ Cree decided to jump on the opportunity to stay onboard for another week. We look forward to sharing another adventure with the Crees!

All of the boats decided to have a last dinner in town together and went to Annabel’s, a Ketchikan staple. We ate, drank, laughed, cried, and vowed to always keep in touch. It’s amazing the bonds that are formed while immersed in nature and out on the water. The sea is a magical place that demands respect but in return can show tolerance and introduce you to a world of wonders that will not soon be forgotten. This is a notion that Mother Goosers understand all too well and although we say goodbye to her for now, we look forward to the day we can respectfully return to her affectionate embrace.

Mother Goose Leg 1, Day 23 – Prince Rupert to Foggy Bay

2010-06-16T14:39:00.000-07:00

We were all anxious to leave Prince Rupert this morning and return to the solitude of a small anchorage for our last night at sea. Foggy Bay provided us a remote cove in which we all rafted together. Snuggled together, we prepared for our final evening together as adventurous mariners, before we ended our journey tomorrow in Ketchikan. To celebrate our accomplishment, Deception hosted “The Last Supper” in which everyone prepared whatever leftover provisions they had, and we all dined together. Food was aplenty and all reminisced about the last month and the amazing experiences we all lived. To everyone’s amusement we also had a talent show where each vessel put on their own talent. Laughter filled Deception’s saloon and poured out the windows as Ed recited his poem regarding the crew of Deception, the Brantley’s sung an old sea shanty full of vivid gestures and Murray and RJ performed a hysterical skit/joke. Tears started forming during Sue’s moving poem of her experiences on Mother Goose and they continued through a slide show of pictures from the entire leg produced by the crew of Deception. We started this adventure with high hopes of a great time, and ended with lives changed. New friendships were solidified and indelibly ingrained memories were created. Tomorrow we head to Ketchikan and, unfortunately, our ways must part. All we have in life are our encounters with others and the world around us, and NW Explorations is unbelievably grateful for the enrichment of the people and experiences that have been brought into our lives.

Mother Goose Leg 1, Day 22 - Prince Rupert Lay Day

2010-06-09T15:24:00.001-07:00

Our lay day in Prince Rupert was spent touring the town, browsing shops and enjoying espresso amidst cow painted tables and pictures. It was nice to be able to provision with fresh produce and buy some local souvenirs, but we are all anxious to get back out onto the water. Tomorrow we will be leaving B.C. and crossing into Alaska heading for Foggy Bay. We are all looking forward to getting back to nature and the beautiful remoteness of the area for one last night. I think it’s safe to say we’ve become spoiled by being the only boats in an anchorage spot. Tomorrow we will head to Foggy Bay and anchor for the final time of what has turned out to be an unbelievable and remarkable adventure. We are sad to have it be coming to an end, but look forward to our “last supper” together in which Deception will host a potluck dinner for all of the boats. I have a feeling the dinner will last well into the night…

Mother Goose Leg 1, Day 21 – Newcombe Harbour to Prince Rupert

2010-06-09T14:01:00.001-07:00

Today we left our remote sanctuary behind and headed for civilization. Fair winds, calm seas, and sunshine were with us again, providing another fantastic day of cruising. As we neared Prince Rupert we began seeing signs of life, and not the marine and aviary kind we’ve grown accustomed to. We saw paved roads, a full size grocery store, souvenir shops, cafes, and even buses. We saw groups of the homosapian species with juveniles in tow which we haven’t seen in this large of numbers in almost a month.
All of our boats were able to tie along the docks at the Prince Rupert Rowing & Yacht Club, which is located right in the heart of “downtown” Prince Rupert. There seem to be several cute little shops and restaurants which we’ll likely explore during our lay day tomorrow. The local bay is known as Cow Bay and the town has definitely used that as its theme. There is Cow Bay Café and Cowpaccino’s to grab a latte while walking around the cow painted street markers, garbage cans, building walls, and large cow scenes with cut outs to put your heads in for pictures. Tomorrow we’ll have the opportunity to get the full Prince Rupert experience.

Mother Goose Leg 1, Day 20 – Patterson Inlet to Newcombe Harbour

2010-06-09T11:14:00.000-07:00

This last portion of our adventure just seems to be flying by. It’s hard to believe that we will be in Ketchikan by the end of the week. We are savoring every moment of it and fortunately the weather over the last few days has been absolutely beautiful. More blue skies and calm waters guided us on our cruise to Newcombe Harbour today. The route to Newcombe was filled with scenic islands scattered about. Slews of rocks hid just under the surface waiting to startle a passing vessel. Our Grand Banks snuggled together in order to avoid being startled and safely traverse these concealed obstacles. Once through the gauntlet, the islands opened up into the crystal clear waters and open sky of Petrel Channel. Captain Brian decided to give the skippers of the vessels a thrill by having them open up their engines and cruise full throttle. It was a magnificent sight to see these beautiful boats cut through the sea tossing a wake behind them like a prize stallion just let out of the gate. You could tell the skippers were giddy with excitement over the power unleashed beneath them. Arctic Star and Mystic Eagle seemed to jockey back and forth creating a trail of large roller coaster waves which seemed to mimic the arcs of the peaks above them. The goslings beat Deception into Newcombe Harbour and found their own anchorage spots to cozy into for the evening. Inside Passage rafted to Deception and hosted dinner for them. It was like a Thanksgiving feast with plate after plate of pure deliciousness! After Annie’s fantastic meal, we headed for the shore of Pitt Island to have another bonfire. Jordan and Casey gathered firewood while Captain Brian collected some expired flares to use as a match. After dousing the fire pit with gasoline, Captain Brain took aim and fired into the piled wood… four flares later (including one smoke flare which covered us in a sheet of orange smoke) we had a fantastic bonfire ablaze which burned well into the night, keeping us warm, safe, and happy.

Mother Goose Leg 1, Day 19 – Hawk Bay to Patterson Inlet

2010-06-09T11:12:00.000-07:00

Deception and Mystic Eagle had rafted together last night and decided to co-host breakfast this morning. There wasn’t a cloud in the sky and the sun was already warming us, which made for a very pleasant Sunday morning. We left our anchorage in Hawk Bay and headed across Otter Channel toward our next stop, Patterson Bay. Our Grand Banks cut through the placid waters amidst the panorama of layered islands and hillsides. These layers were all around us and continued as far as the eyes can see, lightening in hues until they faded out into the atmosphere, unable to differentiate peak from sky. About halfway through our cruise we received a radio call from Jenn on Inside Passage which we could barely make out due to the screaming from Annie in the background. We could hear the excitement but where were they looking?? What were they seeing?? Then we saw it… just off to Deception’s beam was a pod of orcas! These were transient, meaning they feed primarily on other marine mammals such as seals, sea lions, and porpoises. Transient orcas generally travel in pods no larger than 10 individuals; we counted 8 animals in the group. We stopped our engines and floated in the water watching these beautiful creatures. The pod was comprised of several females, a calf, and 2 BIG bull males. Grown adult males can have dorsal fins up to six feet long and one of these bulls’ fins must have been close to that. They were cruising at a leisurely pace, providing us with a wonderful opportunity to take pictures and delight in their presence. The weather was the best we’ve had and the serenity of watching this pod of orcas made us truly appreciative of this experience. The largest bull orca made several slaps of his tail, letting us know he was there and protective of his females. We eventually had to move on and leave the orcas to their travels, but it was an unforgettable experience for us all.

We pulled into Patterson Bay, another absolutely gorgeous spot, where we anchored and immediately took advantage of the fantastic weather. Some explored the rocky, jagged coastline, intermingling with harbor seals and viewing vibrantly colored starfish. Others took their dinghies to the south bay to drop crab pots. On Eddy and Murray’s exploration of the south bay they stumbled upon a black bear who was just 10 yards from them up on shore. The bear didn’t seem to be bothered by their presence as it lay down to enjoy a snack and a nap right in front of them. They didn’t end up catching any crab after that experience I don’t think Eddy and Murray minded too much.

Mother Goose Leg 1, Day 18 – Culpepper Lagoon to Hawk Bay

2010-06-09T11:10:00.000-07:00

An ethereal mist lingered over the still waters of Culpepper Lagoon. We could have stayed here for days, weeks, perhaps never have left. Maybe we could have formed our own little Grand Banks community and lived off the land and sea. The journey must go on, of course, and the tide was right to exit the narrows so we raised anchor and headed for Hawk Bay. We were grateful both that we were able to experience a place such as this and that a place like this still exists in this world. Culpepper Lagoon is meant to be shared with the lucky few whose lives find their way into its embrace. We take our memories of this wondrous sanctuary and leave only a small wake in our trail as we return the lagoon to its natural habitants- hoping they continue to thrive.

We left the lagoon, headed back down Kynoch Inlet to Mathieson Channel. From here there was a short maze of passages and channels through which we meandered until we connected with Princess Royal Channel. From there, we cruised along mainland B.C. and the east side of Princess Royal Island en route to Hawk Bay, 85 miles to the north. A whale made a brief appearance before diving out of sight and we were able to see a brown bear foraging on shore. However, all of our eyes were peeled for Spirit bears. These bears’ primary population is centered in this part of the world. Although a rare sight, one was seen along this route last year, and we had hoped another would decide to show itself this year.

A point of interest along the way was Butedale on Princess Royal Island. This is the site of a former cannery which has fallen into complete disrepair. The buildings are dilapidated and falling down and the docks barely accessible. However, there is a beautiful waterfall next to the cannery ruins which makes for a breathtaking site. A lone caretaker remains onsite, selling homemade ice cream to passing travelers.

As we neared Hawk Bay, we proceeded through another series of narrow channels, passages and islands that made us thankful for our charts. It would be very easy to get turned around within the labyrinth waterways and land masses. The sky had fully cleared of clouds and its warmth and vibrant blue hues enveloped us as we entered Hawk Bay, making the water looked deceivingly inviting. We made our anchorage in this serene little bay, all the while being watched by several bald eagles perched high above us. It was a perfect evening and the bay was full of life. There were large jelly fish and enormous polychaete worms (think 18 inch swimming centipedes) meandering all around the boats. This sparked the scientists in Casey and Sue and they spent their evening researching the mysteries of life within Hawk Bay – well, at least the marine life that would fit in a small vial.

Mother Goose Leg 1, Day 17 – Rescue Bay to Culpepper Lagoon

2010-06-09T11:05:00.000-07:00

Ah, beautiful sunshine! Excitement filled the air this morning as we lifted anchor and headed for Culpepper Lagoon. It was a gorgeous morning for a cruise and it seems the humpbacks couldn’t have agreed more. Within the first half hour of our travels up Mathieson Channel, a humpback whale greeted us, fluking only a few hundred yards off Deception’s starboard side. It appeared to be a yearling making its way to better feeding grounds. Humpback whale calves will stay with their mother for up to two years. However, if the mother becomes pregnant again and the calf is done nursing, the mother will often separate from the calf after a year. Apparently much of the marine life was out for a cruise today because we saw some harbor porpoises off in the distance as well as Dall’s porpoises. We spotted 3 or 4 Dall’s off in the distance and before we knew it they were hitching a ride on Deception’s bow – an exhilarating ride for them and sight for us! Our spectacular encounters with the wildlife of the area this morning were so up close and personal that Captain Brian felt inspired to play Enya and Dvorak through Deception’s surround sound speakers to allow us to experience the full depth of the scene around us.

Our Mother Goose flotilla was thoroughly enjoying our marine mammal sightings, not to mention the multitude of birds everywhere, when we really started to take notice of the changing landscape. As we rounded a corner in Mathieson Channel, the dense tree-filled hills began to soar toward the sky and sheer rock faces protruded from the sea as if thrust upward by Poseidon himself. They lined the channel, towering over us like sentinels guarding the entrance to the beauty that lay beyond. It is amazing that life can exist on these sheer rock faces, but somehow trees manage to find enough room to squeeze in their roots and soak up enough minerals to survive. On the high peaks, the mountain goats are able to show off their agility by grazing along these cliffs which seem utterly impossible to find a footing.

The accumulated water trickling down one the giant granite faces amassed near the bottom into an enormous water fall, creating the very picturesque scene that is known as Kynoch Falls. The steep faces of the 3000 foot peaks plunge from the mountaintops down to the water’s edge and beyond. They channels we cruised were so deep, and the edges so sheer, that we could touch our bows to the walls and still be in over a hundred feet of water. Up close, the winds gusting off the falls are so powerful they coat everything with a fine mist. Deception idled in front of the falls and called in each boat one by one so we could get a picture of the various crews and their respective boats in front of beautiful Kynoch Falls.

The towering rocks on each side converged to a narrow entrance leading into Culpepper Lagoon. The tremendous views and pristine waters welcomed us with open arms and we were in awe of the beauty of the locale we were to call home for the evening. We slowly cruised to our anchor spots so as not to disturb the a haulout of 15 or 20 harbor seals, eagles feeding on the shore, and any bears which might be loitering around. There wasn’t one among us who was not impressed and thrilled with the unbelievable day of cruising that we were fortunate enough to have.

That evening an appetizer and cocktail hour was held on Deception. The salon was filled with conversations of the day’s travels and the consensus was that there weren’t enough descriptors to accurately portray to beauty and dominance of the area. It was heartwarming to hear the excitement in people’s voices and watching them use grand gestures, attempting to take in all that they had experienced.

The evening was far from over as we ended Deception’s appetizer hour to take a dinghy tour up a nearby river. We kept our voices quiet in hopes of sneaking up on the wildlife; after all, they are not accustomed to seeing humans are very skittish. As we rounded the curved entrance to the river, Jordan spotted what he thought was a black bear on the grassy meadow just outside the dense rainforest tree line. He did find us a bear, only it was a brown bear! We had spotted our first brown bear! Bears have extremely good senses of smell and hearing but have poor eye sight, so we kept our voices low and hoped we were downwind so that we could get a closer look. The brown bear stood up on its two hind legs to get a better idea of its surroundings – it knew we were near. It lingered for a few moments, deciding whether or not we were a threat before erring on the side of caution and headed into the protection of the forest. We were overwhelmed with excitement and continued our way up deeper into the rainforest. This area has much more dense growth and the trees are swaddled with moss due to the increased rainfall. The current picked up the further we traveled up the river and fallen trees created an aquatic obstacle course for our dinghies. Eventually we reached a point where the rapids were picking up and the depth was too shallow for our dinghies to safely pass, so we made a U-turn, lifted our motors, and floated back down from whence we came. It was incredibly peaceful to float through this gorgeous forest, with the unknown living just beyond the shoreline. As we returned back down to where the forest opened into a meadow, the brown bear had returned to finish its dinner and we were able to catch another look. This time we were much quieter without our motors to startle it. We used our oars to maneuver around the corner into the bay and as we did the Crees spotted a black bear emerge from the forest. It is a rare sight to see both black and brown bear together, as the larger brown bear will usually chase the black bear off; the exceptions are further north and on the mainland in areas where food is plentiful and there is no need for such territorial behavior. In this situation, as soon as the black bear saw the brown bear, it high-tailed it back into the forest. After several minutes, and some pacing back and forth, the brown bear retreated back into the forest. We adjourned our dinghy tour for the evening, very content with the remarkable events of the day which have left an indelible impression in our memories. The majesty of today’s travels was a humbling reminder that we are simply visitors to nature’s phenomenal wonderland.

Mother Goose: Leg 1, Day 16 – Shearwater to Rescue Bay

2010-06-09T11:03:00.000-07:00

The sun was shining was we started our leisurely morning here in Shearwater. We weren’t scheduled to depart for Rescue Bay until 10 am, which gave us plenty of time to grab breakfast at the pub and take a morning stroll along the docks. We helped see off another Grand Banks that happened to dock right next to our fleet the night before. The couple cruising aboard her asked where we had come from. When we explained that we had left from Bellingham, WA and come up the outside of Vancouver Island the woman giggled and said “No really, what route did you take?” We assured her we weren’t kidding. They were impressed and we felt proud to have taken the road less traveled.

As we headed for Rescue Bay, we hugged the coastline looking for wildlife. We wandered up Seaforth Channel, rounding Cambell Island and hooking up with Reid Passage. Reid Passage cuts in between Cecilia Island and Don Penisula before becoming Mathieson Channel. It’s along here that we start noticing a change in the topography. The hills around us seem to be getting larger, the trees more full and lush, the deep channels even deeper, the edges of the coastline more sheer, and the snowcapped mountains in front of us appeared much closer and more prominent. As we cruised along, we were lucky enough to see 3 black dorsal fins splitting the surface of the water. We also began looking along the shoreline for spirit bears. Spirit bears, also called kermode bears, are a subspecies of black bear which have an interesting and unique trait. A large portion of the population of spirit bears contains a recessive gene, which causes their fur to be pure white. These bears are not albinos, a condition which is characterized by the inability to produce pigment. These spirit bears are found only in this part of the world, and they have special significance to the native people in this area.

Once we reached Rescue Bay and were all anchored, Casey led an exploratory dinghy tour up Jackson Narrows. With deeper depths, RJ Cree of Mystic Eagle attempted crabbing once again and was very successful – he caught a whole pot full and kept roughly 12 Dungeness crab. Jordan, Commander of Small Vessels and Master Crab Cooker, worked his magic and cooked the up the crab for the Crees. Hopefully this is the first of many big crab catches!

Mother Goose Leg 1, Day 15 - Pruth Bay to Shearwater

2010-06-02T17:07:00.001-07:00

We said goodbye to Pruth Bay this morning and even though it was raining and the wind was blowing, it was somehow peaceful. We were nice and cozy in our stylish Grand Banks with warm coffee brewing, breakfast cooking, and a tranquil panorama invoking a protected feeling. Captain Brian decided that rather than traveling along the outside of the B.C. Coastline and being exposed to the Pacific, we would cross Hakai Passage and meander up Ward Channel in between the west side of Nalau Island and the east side of Underhill Island before hooking back up with Fitzhugh Sound and finally docking at Shearwater. Shearwater is a small community which is host to a grocery store/liquor store/post office, a few souvenir shops, and a large pub. Comparatively this town feels like a jumping port with tons of amenities! There’s even shore power here! The grocery store has an excellent fresh produce section and we are able to get enough produce to last us until our next big stop, Prince Rupert in about 6 six days. A few of the boats are taking the water taxi over to Bella Bella, another shore town about 2 miles back down the passage, to check it out, while others are enjoying being in Shearwater. The consensus tonight is that we’ll all make our way up to the pub for an evening of fish & chips, local beers, and a game of pool. It all sounds so civilized after being so removed and at sea for the last two weeks!

Leg 1, Day 14 - Fury Cove to Pruth Bay

2010-06-01T16:46:00.000-07:00

We lifted anchor this morning and headed for Pruth Bay, another beautiful bay with a fantastic beach to explore. Pruth Bay is also home to Hakai Lodge. Once a premier fishing resort on a beach nestled in a valley of trees, it is in the process of being converted to a retreat center. Instead of making a straight course for Pruth Bay, we decided to take advantage of the myriad islands and go exploring. As of WWII, many of these islands didn’t have names, but the servicemen patrolling these waters needed to be able to provide landmarks and descriptions to each other so they named the islands and inlets themselves, thus explaining such names as Hurricane Island, Spitfire Island, and Convoy Passage. One could spend weeks exploring all of these islands, but we only had a few hours which we thoroughly enjoyed. Once in Pruth Bay, Mystic Eagle and Inside Passage anchored in the interior bay while Deception, Navigator, and Arctic Star rafted together in the outer bay. Hakai Lodge is very inviting with its beautiful location and maintained grounds. They are going to see if they are able to create a dinner for us tonight at such late notice which would be a welcomed pleasure.

Leg 1, Day 13 - Winter Harbour to Fury Cove

2010-06-01T16:41:00.000-07:00

The weather gods must be smiling on us! We left Winter Harbour at 5 am sharp this morning; light was just beginning to creep on the darkness which shrouded our cozy nook of the world. Aside from the fact that it was a fairly long cruise to Fury Cove, our hope in leaving early was to avoid the high winds and swells that typically exist when crossing the Queen Charlotte Sound. Wind gusts in this area have reached some of the highest recorded, up to about 200+ knots/hour, but as we rounded Cape Scott on the tip of Vancouver Island, we were joyously surprised to find the best seas we’ve had yet. The sound was as calm as a lake. The majority of our crossing was through seas of glass with barely a ripple disturbing our vessels. We were invigorated by the wonderful weather, and our excitement only increased when we began spotting pods of humpback whales feeding in Queen Charlotte Sound as we made our crossing. Like us, these whales were recent arrivals to the area, having migrated all the way from their breeding areas in Hawaii to their summer feeding grounds on the north coast of British Columbia. Also like us, they were here to feast on the abundant sources of delicious seafood, fattening themselves up before leaving the great north and making the long return trip south. Some of the humpbacks came within a few hundred yards of our boats. We idled in the sound and looked on in amazement as these magnificent creatures breached and fluked right along side our boats. Along with the astounding sights of the whales came the huge flocks of sooty shearwaters, which blanketed the top of the water, following the whales in hopes of catching any leftover food brought to the surface by the humpbacks. It was a phenomenal way to end our trip along the west coast of Vancouver Island and our start along the B.C. coastline. Fury Cove was breathtaking, with a beautiful curving white beach on one end which looked almost tropical. It was the perfect place for a bonfire. All of the boats took their dinghies over to the beach and spent the evening talking and laughing by the fire. One of the anchoring sailboats even joined in the festivities and a good time was had by all.

Leg 1, Day 12 - Winter Harbour Lay Day

2010-06-01T16:35:00.000-07:00

The aroma of melting chocolate complemented the satisfying sounds of sizzling which wafted through Deception this morning. Captain Brian was cooking a huge batch of chocolate chip pancakes to bring over to Mystic Eagle to help say farewell to George. Deception provided the pancakes, and the Crees provided the bacon and eggs; it was a feast! We enjoyed our morning spread as we reminisced about our trip thus far. George’s seaplane arrived at about 10 am and we reluctantly said our goodbyes and wished him safe travels home. It was difficult to see a member of our adventure leave us with so much of our adventure left ahead of us, but we were all very happy about Annie and Sue’s arrival. We were all anxious to fill them in on our experiences so far and couldn’t wait to create new memories with them. This was our last evening on Vancouver Island; we had successfully navigated the west coast and tomorrow we were to traverse Queen Charlotte’s Sound and connect with the Inside Passage. We would continue up the B.C. coastline until we reached our ultimate destination, Ketchikan, Alaska. As with most things in life, however, reaching our destination isn’t our objective. Our objective is living this moment, and then the next until we have a series of moments that turn into a journey which we can carry with us for the rest of our lives. So far the moments have been unforgettable, filled with incredible scenery and amazing wildlife that few people ever see and new friends with whom we are fortunate enough to enjoy this spectacular journey.

Leg 1, Day 11 - Klaskish to Winter Harbour

2010-06-01T16:29:00.000-07:00

This morning we lifted anchor in Klaskish and headed for our final destination on Vancouver Island, Winter Harbour. This small town was only about a three hour cruise and was town we had seen since we left Tofino. The cruise to Winter Harbour was beautiful and the town itself was picturesque, nestled on the shore of a large bay and surrounded by fantastic views of rolling mountains. At the top of the dock was “The Outpost,” a small store which provided the only fuel, liquor, and groceries available in the area. All of these operations are run by a man named Ron who was very friendly and accommodating to us. When we arrived, he dropped what he was doing to come down the fuel dock and give diesel to our five thirsty Grand Banks. Captain Brian and Ron spend this time catching up, as they’ve become old friends over the past years from NW Explorations’ travels up north. After fueling Ron offered to open the store up early for us, which we gladly accepted in hopes of getting some fresh produce and more provisions. As we fueled and shopped, a seaplane gracefully landed in the bay and pulled up on the float next to the fleet. The Brantley’s son, Jason, had flown all the way from New York City to join his family on the rest of the adventure up to Ketchikan. We were all excited to have a new member to share this experience. The rest of the evening was spent relaxing, kayaking, hiking along the beach, and visiting with one another. There were some great photo opportunities, including some shots of the masses of sea otters that make their home within the bay. One otter in particular was not shy about coming in close to the boats and spent a lot of time loudly chomping on some crab just off the dock. Tomorrow we will have a lay day, so we will be able to continue to enjoy the gorgeous vista Winter Harbour offers. The day will be bittersweet, as we unfortunately have to say goodbye to George Cree who is flying back to Texas, but we get to welcome Annie and Sue Cree, wives of Rick and Hal who will be joining us for the rest of Leg 1.

Leg 1, Day 10 - Klaskish Lay Day

2010-06-01T16:25:00.000-07:00

We awoke this morning to some friendly banter over the radio. Apparently Eddy had dropped a crab pot last night but the tide had lowered so significantly over night that Carol was joking he was more likely to catch rabbits than crab. It was obviously we were all feeling refreshed and enjoyed being able to sleep in and have a lazy morning. Through the inlet of our bay and around the corner, there is a river which runs inland and Casey decided to lead a dinghy tour up it as it makes for a stunning ride. The river is narrow and dense with trees, some of which are reaching out over the water attempting to gather as much sunlight as possible. Fallen trees and shallow spots are among the obstacles making for an adventurous dinghy ride. We were only able to go about a half a mile to a mile up the river before having to turn around due to a log jam of fallen trees, amongst which was a several hundred year old spruce with an uplifted base of roots as high as Deception. Idling through this lush temperate rainforest, we couldn’t help but imagine ourselves on an expedition through the Amazon, the logs started looking like hippos wading in the water, and the branches weaved through the trees like boa constrictors. Everyone had a great time meandering up the river and it was an inspiring sight to see all of the Mother Gooselets cruising along these pristine waters in such a remote part of the world – it’s quite possible that we were the last visitors to East Creek since we were here this time last year. With the dingy tour was adjourned, people were on their own to enjoy the rest of the day. Many went exploring in kayaks, perusing areas that were too shallow for even the dinghies to go. That evening Deception Cinema was showing the movie “Captain Ron” and thus we concluded a great day with popcorn, wine, and laughter.

Leg 1, Day 9 - Dixie Cove to Klaskish

2010-06-01T16:16:00.000-07:00

What a beautiful morning! The sun is shining and spirits are high. We emerged from our anchorage in Dixie Cove into Tahsis Passage and immediately saw a black bear foraging for food down on a beach. As our bows cut through the placid water, it felt as if we were the first to ever explore these waters. The scenery was breathtaking as we maneuvered through a narrow passage into an obstacle course of rocks and islands, many of which we never would have seen had it been high tide. We were giddy with excitement as there was too much to see. Look at the islands over there! Look at the eagles flying over there! There’s another raft of otters by those rocks there! Eagles and otters and bears, oh my!! The beauty was almost too much to take in. Had there been a whale we probably would have imploded. It is mornings like these that make life worth living – and it’s only 9:30 am. We traversed our way through a mix of islands and made our way out into the Pacific Ocean where the sea welcomed us with waters almost as calm as the passage we just cruised. We couldn’t have wished for better seas. This weather window was simply too good to miss, so we decided to cruise right past our intended anchorage in the Bunsby Islands and continue on around the Brooks peninsula, past Solander Island, to Klashkish Bay. Cruising doesn’t get much better than this.

As we came around the tip of the Brooks Peninsula, an ethereal mist cloaked Solander Island. Like a scene out of Jurassic Park, the island slowly appeared and we could see tufted puffins, pelagic cormorants, common murres, and pigeon guillemots soaring above the rocks. A loud barking noise could be heard in the wind and as we rounded Solander, hundreds of Steller sea lions could be seen sunning themselves on the rocks. It was an amazing sight to see, and hear, these large creatures piled on the island. Unlike seals, sea lions can rotate their hind flippers under their bodies and walk on them. This allows them to be quite agile, climbing up steep rocks that humans would find daunting, even with our opposable thumbs. As we continued around Brooks Peninsula, Solander Island disappeared again into its protective mist, having provided us only a glimpse into the lives of these endangered species. We were grateful for the opportunity.

The entrance to Klaskish Bay is a narrow inlet, almost unnoticeable until you’re right on top of it, lined with towering trees and rocks. Once through the narrow entryway, the bay opens up and offers plenty of anchorage room. Because the weather was so accommodating and we were able to cruise further north, we are having a lay day tomorrow in which we can sleep in, go on a dinghy tour, go kayaking, and just relax in beautiful Klaskish Bay.

Leg 1, Day 8 - Friendly Cove to Dixie Cove

2010-06-01T15:59:00.000-07:00

This morning we lifted anchor and continued our voyage north toward Dixie Cove, about 56 miles up the coast of Vancouver Island. We headed up the Tahsis Passage on the east side of Nootka Island which kept us sheltered and provided amazing views of the pristine wilderness around us – some of the last left in the world. It must have been our lucky day as the wildlife was out in force. We not only saw our first black bear, but also our second, and our third, and our fourth and oh who can keep count anymore! The shoreline was littered with an abundance of oysters and it was feeding time. Along the way we also passed a large raft of about 25-35 sea otters who were also feeding. Dixie Cove is a beautiful, peaceful spot which is almost like a cove within a cove. Arctic Star, Navigator, and Inside Passage made their way into the inner cove to anchor while Mystic Eagle and Deception made their home in the outer cove for the evening. Several of the boats took advantage of the calm water and went kayaking or for dinghy rides. Two little freshwater streams made there way into the cove which seemed like a good place to drop a crab pot to the Rick and RJ of Mystic Eagle and Eddy of Arctic Star. Several dinghies and kayakers stopped by Deception for a cocktail before continuing on their tour of the cove. It was a pleasant evening and as the night sky cleared up and the moon shone down, you couldn’t help but breathe a deep peaceful sigh. It was as if we weren’t meant to be anywhere else.

Leg 1, Day 7 - Hot Springs Cove to Friendly Cove

2010-06-01T15:53:00.000-07:00

This morning we set sail for Friendly Cove, about 40 miles north of Hot Springs Cove. We were sad to leave the soothing embrace of the hot springs but looked forward to continuing our journey and seeing what new experiences lay ahead. We made a careful entry into Friendly Cove in the early afternoon. The opening to the cove is lined with rocks which aren’t visible during high tide, so a gentle approach and watchful maneuvering and is necessary to avoid any pitfalls. Once in the snug and sheltered cove, Deception dropped anchor and the rest of the flotilla rafted up against her creating a solid mass of Grand Banks. Once settled, Jordan ferried everyone around the corner to the former location of the village of Yuquot. Yuquot was a first nation village that stood on the hill above Friendly Cove. The site has been continuously inhabited for over 4300 years. In the mid-1900’s the village relocated to another site, but one family remained as caretakers of the land. They welcome visitors and are excited to share information about their history and culture. It’s hard to imagine this small, peaceful community as a once thriving harbor.

Just as our Commander of Small Vessels made a beach landing onto Nootka, a Coast Guard helicopter flew overhead and landed at the CG Station just next to us. They handed off a package and then disappeared into the mist as quickly as they had appeared. That is how mail is delivered to the lighthouses in remote BC. As we made our way up the beach and onto the boardwalk which took us into “town” a local member of the Mowachaht tribe greeted us along the path. He was very friendly and anxious to share with us where to see their historic sites. He also informed us that he had caught about 50 pounds of halibut yesterday and would be willing to sell it to us for only $6 a pound. We knew what we were having for dinner tonight! Murray ended up buying enough fish for a halibut feast for the entire fleet and of course people bought more for their own reserve. In total we ended up buying about 25-30 lbs of halibut, a great way to support the local economy.

One of the main sites in town was a beautiful totem pole that was erected in 1929 and toppled in a large storm during the winter of 1994. The ornately carved figures of a bear, raven, human and eagle had lost most of their color and were returning to the earth, being overgrown by grasses and salmonberries. Custom dictates that a fallen totem pole cannot be re-erected; a new one must be created in its place. We spoke with a local carver who is renowned for beautiful carvings. He told us that he has been given permission from the local elders and chief to carve a new totem pole but he is waiting for the right 40+ foot log to wash up on shore so he can begin carving the replacement pole. The carver, Sanford Williams, allowed us to go visit his workshop where we could see some of his work. His shop was right on the beach overlooking the bay. As soon as we opened the door, the aroma of freshly cut cedar surrounded us and beckoned us in. All of Sanford’s artwork is created by hand; he even makes his own tools. He had gorgeously detailed masks and wood carvings hung on the walls and a large stripped log which will eventually be a wolf that is being carved for a gallery in Tofino. Sanford’s son, Mike, was also there and was following in his father’s footsteps; he was working on completing his first painted carving.

The local church in the village had been turned into a museum which held fantastic historical pictures of the surrounding area and the village as it once was. One of the highlights of the museum was two magnificent stained glass windows donated by the Russian government in 1954: one depicting the first Catholic missionaries making contact with the native people, and the other showing the Spanish Captain Bodega-Quadra and the British Captain Cook signing the Nootka Convention, a very important historical event which took place in Nootka Sound in the 1700’s.

Back at the boats, a reception was held on Deception in which Captain Brian cooked up the halibut for the whole flotilla. Everyone brought an appetizer and their beverages of choice, and another pleasant evening was spent reliving in the events of the day. What a great way to end another memorable day on Mother Goose.

Leg 1, Day 6 - Tofino to Hot Springs Cove

2010-06-01T15:39:00.000-07:00

Today we left Tofino for Hot Springs Cove. We unfortunately had to say goodbye to Denise & Kirk from Arctic Star who were heading back to their winery in CA. It was our first real drizzly day, but the weather did nothing to diminish the natural beauty of the area. In fact the mists shrouding the mountaintops created a mystical atmosphere that was beautiful and even humbling to behold. We meandered through the interior waterways between Vancouver Island and the east side of both Vargas and Flores Islands. As we cruised, we passed a native town which had a large central meeting hall and a spectacular totem pole out front. We also saw our first salmon farms, a ubiquitous sight on the BC coast. The mountains towered above us, protecting our flotilla from the winds and creating a serene and breathtaking environment. We spotted several porpoises as well and many sea otters. At one point we passed a raft of about 10 or 15 holding on to one another as they floated on their backs. As we emerged from our sheltered passage into the Pacific Ocean, large swells awoke us from our mystical trance and we once again focused on the sea before us. We weren’t in the open but for a few minutes when we took a sharp right and headed into the protective waters of Hot Springs Cove. With an open dock to ourselves, our Grand Banks settled in to call this inlet home for the night.

Once settled, Casey led those interested on a dinghy tour (driven of course by Commander of Small Vessels, Jordan) of the cove in hopes of spotting black bears, deer, or eagle nests. While there were no bear sightings today, we were able to spot several bald eagles and ospreys. The coastline was captivating with its dense forest and rugged cliff lines. The water was surprisingly clear and we could see right to the bottom, which was covered in giant pink sea stars. On the rocky shore, smaller sea stars, mussels, and barnacles covered every available inch.

Then, of course, there is what gives this locale its name, the local hot springs. From our dock there is a boardwalk which leads about a mile along the shore to a series of hot springs of varying temperatures. The hot springs are created naturally and heated from volcanic activity deep underground. The springs are nestled just on the other side of some large rocks near the opening of the cove by the Pacific Ocean. So while sitting in your warm and comfortable hot spring, drinking a beer, you have a view of the Pacific waves smashing into the rocks and creating a show of spray. Life is good.

Leg 1, Day 5- Effingham to Tofino

2010-06-01T15:30:00.000-07:00

Rise and shine everyone! Today we lift anchor and head to Tofino, about a 6 hour cruise north across Barkley Sound and along the beautiful west coast of Vancouver Island. We un-rafted around 8 am with absolutely no problems, we are all seasoned rafters at this point in the trip! There was surprisingly little conversation, but I suppose people were still feeling the effects of the jalapeños, chili and margaritas from last night. Shortly after we left Effingham Bay, Casey spotted several spouts in the distance ahead… could it be? Again, there again were a few more spouts… it must be! We’ve spotted our first whales!

As we cruised along, we were able to get a close enough look at one of the whales which was fluking, to identify it as a gray whale. It was likely one of around 100 gray whales that are resident to the Tofino area. The vast majority of gray whales migrate from the Baja Peninsula in Mexico all the way to the Bering Sea each summer to feed, but these animals stop once they reach Tofino. Unfortunately, the other whales we saw that day were too far to identify, but judging by the height and shape of their blows, Casey thought they were likely humpback whales. Hopefully this was the first of many whale encounters this summer!

We casually made our way into Tofino where we were able to dock at the far end of town. Tofino is host to many great restaurants with a unique flare and the town itself offers some quaint little shops and café. A large harbor seal spent the evening swimming around our boats, a little curious about these newcomers. Several of the boats tossed crab pots of their sterns in hopes of catching some rock crab; many made a good haul but all ended up being thrown back. As the sun set we watched as high tide flooded in and made several islands that were right in front of us disappear. We’re beginning to get used to these relaxing evenings and starting to really appreciate where we were in the world and the absence of the chaotic world we left behind.