Tuesday, October 19, 2010
NW Explorations off-site meeting
With our season coming to an end it's time for NW Explorations' annual off-site meeting. This year we're heading over to Roche harbor for a few days on Brian's boat Deception and Scott & Alison's new floating home, Terrapin. It seems that the success of this year has brought about a TON of stuff to go over and perfect. It's refreshing to work for a company that is so atune to clients' feedback and willing to dedicate time to see where things can be done better. It's always a work in progress! Lt's just hope this gorgeous fall weather holds out through next week...
Monday, October 11, 2010
Desolation Sound Flotilla - October 10, 2010 - Friday Harbor to Bellingham Bay
After being woken by the gusting wind early this morning, we wondered if we would be leaving Friday Harbor today, but the forecast called for the winds to diminish and for the sun to come out. We enjoyed a relaxed morning having breakfast (or at least a latte) in town, and even Pop-Eye, Friday Harbor’s resident harbor seal, put in an appearance. This time, the forecast was right on the button: the wind first shifted to the NW and then died down to a breeze, and we cast off under blue skies to make our homeward trip to Bellingham.
It was a lovely trip through the heart of the San Juan Islands, and we only had to dodge two WA State Ferries just as we were leaving Friday Harbor. The waters were calm, even in Rosario Strait; a good thing, too, as we had to wait for a large tanker to pass us in the middle of the strait. It was a nice change from yesterday, and made for very pleasant cruising.
As we cruised toward port up a blessedly calm Bellingham Bay, we couldn’t help but reflect on what a beautiful trip we have had. The weather was unbeatable, a Pacific Northwest autumn at its finest. We had a taste of the conditions that remind us these can be challenging waters which shouldn’t be taken for granted, but that with care and planning (and a good boat!) make for some of the finest cruising on earth. It was a truly memorable voyage – new vistas, new friends, and most definitely, new experiences!
We at NW Explorations thank all of our flotilla crews for their enthusiastic participation, and wish them all fair winds and calm seas in all their travels.
It was a lovely trip through the heart of the San Juan Islands, and we only had to dodge two WA State Ferries just as we were leaving Friday Harbor. The waters were calm, even in Rosario Strait; a good thing, too, as we had to wait for a large tanker to pass us in the middle of the strait. It was a nice change from yesterday, and made for very pleasant cruising.
As we cruised toward port up a blessedly calm Bellingham Bay, we couldn’t help but reflect on what a beautiful trip we have had. The weather was unbeatable, a Pacific Northwest autumn at its finest. We had a taste of the conditions that remind us these can be challenging waters which shouldn’t be taken for granted, but that with care and planning (and a good boat!) make for some of the finest cruising on earth. It was a truly memorable voyage – new vistas, new friends, and most definitely, new experiences!
We at NW Explorations thank all of our flotilla crews for their enthusiastic participation, and wish them all fair winds and calm seas in all their travels.
Desolations Sound Flotilla - October 9, 2010 - Montague Bay to Friday Harbor
The rain came back with a vengeance in the night, and so did the wind. The anchorage was secure, but everyone was up early, listening to the weather report. The forecast called for the winds to lessen a bit by mid-morning through mid-afternoon, so we seized the moment and set off for Friday Harbor. Well, the winds did not die down as much as predicted, so we had a sloppier ride than desired. We dodged a BC Ferry as we passed by Active Pass, then bounced our way down Navy Channel, Plumper Sound, and out into Boundary Pass. Captain Bill announced a welcome back into the United States of America as we crossed the international boundary and a thank you to Canada for its hospitality. Then he kindly led us through narrow Johns Pass between Stuart and Johns Islands, which gave us a respite from the rough waters as we enjoyed the protection afforded by the islands. However, we were back into the chop after we rounded the eastern point of Speiden Island into San Juan Channel, and it was rough all the way into the port of Friday Harbor on San Juan Island.
There we had a tricky docking situation, what with the wind and current, at the customs dock. Unfortunately, our arrival coincided with that of the international sailing of the Washington State Ferry, so we had to wait until the customs officers had finished with the ferry. Over 2 hours later, we were finally cleared and had to move off the customs dock to re-dock on the other side of the breakwater –the rain and wind had increased again, so both getting off and getting back on the dock was challenging. Despite a few hair-raising moments, all the skippers brought their boats safely to rest – and everyone enjoyed getting off, at least for a bit.
Around 5 pm, we all gathered for one last social time together, finally relaxing and toasting not only our safe arrival after a trying day, but also a truly fantastic voyage. Emmelina had gathered pictures from everyone during the trip and created a beautiful slide show which we all enjoyed – it certainly felt like we had left Bellingham a long time ago. Then some crews went into town (a charming place, even in the rain) for dinner, and the rest joined together on Deception for a potluck dinner of leftovers. Then we settled down in our comfortable boats, secure at the dock, and listened to the rain.
There we had a tricky docking situation, what with the wind and current, at the customs dock. Unfortunately, our arrival coincided with that of the international sailing of the Washington State Ferry, so we had to wait until the customs officers had finished with the ferry. Over 2 hours later, we were finally cleared and had to move off the customs dock to re-dock on the other side of the breakwater –the rain and wind had increased again, so both getting off and getting back on the dock was challenging. Despite a few hair-raising moments, all the skippers brought their boats safely to rest – and everyone enjoyed getting off, at least for a bit.
Around 5 pm, we all gathered for one last social time together, finally relaxing and toasting not only our safe arrival after a trying day, but also a truly fantastic voyage. Emmelina had gathered pictures from everyone during the trip and created a beautiful slide show which we all enjoyed – it certainly felt like we had left Bellingham a long time ago. Then some crews went into town (a charming place, even in the rain) for dinner, and the rest joined together on Deception for a potluck dinner of leftovers. Then we settled down in our comfortable boats, secure at the dock, and listened to the rain.
Desolation Sound Flotilla - October 8, 2010 - Telegraph Harbour to Montague Harbour
Well, the rain finally came and we have a typical Pacific Northwest fall day – cloudy with a gentle but steady rainfall. We really can’t complain, as this is the first rain we’ve had since we left Bellingham. There was no wind yet, making our travel smooth and calm. It was a short trip today, so we enjoyed a restful morning and a chance to visit the little marina store and café (good coffee drinks and pastries).
Then it was time to cast off and head for Montague Harbour on Galiano Island. Despite the gray skies, we had good visibility as we cruised around the north end of Salt Spring Island (known as Southey Point), and were able to check out Wallace Island, another provincial marine park, in Trincomali Channel. We smoothly cruised into Montague Harbour, a large protected anchorage, part of which is also a marine park. Several boats chose to use the mooring buoys provided by the park; yet another mooring experience. (Many of the buoys had an attendant cormorant perched on them, looking like they were just waiting to collect their fee.) Others chose to anchor, as there was plenty of room.
The rain didn’t dampen the enthusiasm of a small group for a hike around the park with Emmelina; it was a chance to see a 3,000 year old shell midden beach up close. Then it was time for our big evening out! We dinghied over to the public dock and walked a block up the hill where the pub bus picked us up and (laboriously) made its way up island to the famous Hummingbird Pub, home of great fish & chips and good drinks. They had a big table all set up for us, excellent service, and a very good time was had by all. Then, after the return trip by the funky pub bus, we had the fun of dinghying back to our boats in the dark as Emmelina pointed out the bio-luminescence in the water. All was cozy back aboard our boats. And… it had stopped raining.
Then it was time to cast off and head for Montague Harbour on Galiano Island. Despite the gray skies, we had good visibility as we cruised around the north end of Salt Spring Island (known as Southey Point), and were able to check out Wallace Island, another provincial marine park, in Trincomali Channel. We smoothly cruised into Montague Harbour, a large protected anchorage, part of which is also a marine park. Several boats chose to use the mooring buoys provided by the park; yet another mooring experience. (Many of the buoys had an attendant cormorant perched on them, looking like they were just waiting to collect their fee.) Others chose to anchor, as there was plenty of room.
The rain didn’t dampen the enthusiasm of a small group for a hike around the park with Emmelina; it was a chance to see a 3,000 year old shell midden beach up close. Then it was time for our big evening out! We dinghied over to the public dock and walked a block up the hill where the pub bus picked us up and (laboriously) made its way up island to the famous Hummingbird Pub, home of great fish & chips and good drinks. They had a big table all set up for us, excellent service, and a very good time was had by all. Then, after the return trip by the funky pub bus, we had the fun of dinghying back to our boats in the dark as Emmelina pointed out the bio-luminescence in the water. All was cozy back aboard our boats. And… it had stopped raining.
Desolation Sound Flotilla - October 7, 2010 - Bargain Bay to Telegraph Harbour
The forecast indicated a change in the weather for today, but we woke to a beautiful sunrise and clear skies with wisps of clouds. We had a bit of a conundrum today, as our planned route was to cross the Strait of Georgia south of Texada and Lasqueti Islands over to Nanaimo, go through Dodd Narrows and down to Telegraph Harbour at Thetis Island. The high water slack at Dodd Narrows wasn’t until mid-afternoon, but crossing the Strait was better in the morning before the wind came up. The crossing was a bit sloppy, anyway, but each boat picked the heading that worked best for it in those conditions. As soon as we were in the lee of Vancouver Island, the waves died down and we were cruising comfortably along the shore north of Nanaimo.
We had gotten a push from the current as we crossed the Strait, and were way too much ahead of slack at Dodd Narrows. So we slowly cruised around Newcastle Island, a marine park on the edge of Nanaimo’s harbor, then we cruised around the harbor itself, then went over and poked our noses into the bays at the north end of Gabriola Island, and ultimately had to hover outside the entrance to Dodd while waiting for it to stop churning. (Deception did try to take an early run at it, but the current was still running too fast to safely transit, so she backed off, thus providing a good example of why one needs to wait for slack.) Sometimes, patience is the name of the game. Finally, the rapids smoothed out, and after calling a securite, Deception made it most of the way through only to meet a tug and log tow which had neither called nor responded to the securite. Deception hurriedly radioed the rest of the fleet to hold up and wait for the tug and tow to exit the Narrows before coming through. The good news was by that time, the current was a non-issue and everyone made a smooth transit. Sometimes you just can’t plan everything exactly as you’d like.
Once through Dodd Narrows, we didn’t have far to cruise down Stuart Channel to Telegraph Harbour, a cove formed by Thetis and Kuper Islands. Now we are back in the Gulf Islands. We were welcomed to the charming Telegraph Harbour Marina by the owner, and soon were busy putting water on the boats (Egmont had been the last place we had access to water besides what is available through Deception Water and Power). It felt good to finally settle comfortably into our berths after a long day.
We had gotten a push from the current as we crossed the Strait, and were way too much ahead of slack at Dodd Narrows. So we slowly cruised around Newcastle Island, a marine park on the edge of Nanaimo’s harbor, then we cruised around the harbor itself, then went over and poked our noses into the bays at the north end of Gabriola Island, and ultimately had to hover outside the entrance to Dodd while waiting for it to stop churning. (Deception did try to take an early run at it, but the current was still running too fast to safely transit, so she backed off, thus providing a good example of why one needs to wait for slack.) Sometimes, patience is the name of the game. Finally, the rapids smoothed out, and after calling a securite, Deception made it most of the way through only to meet a tug and log tow which had neither called nor responded to the securite. Deception hurriedly radioed the rest of the fleet to hold up and wait for the tug and tow to exit the Narrows before coming through. The good news was by that time, the current was a non-issue and everyone made a smooth transit. Sometimes you just can’t plan everything exactly as you’d like.
Once through Dodd Narrows, we didn’t have far to cruise down Stuart Channel to Telegraph Harbour, a cove formed by Thetis and Kuper Islands. Now we are back in the Gulf Islands. We were welcomed to the charming Telegraph Harbour Marina by the owner, and soon were busy putting water on the boats (Egmont had been the last place we had access to water besides what is available through Deception Water and Power). It felt good to finally settle comfortably into our berths after a long day.
Desolation Sound Flotilla - October 6, 2010 - Grace Harbour to Bargain Bay
We woke to a morning mist, which cleared as we exited Grace Harbour. Today, we said good-bye to Desolation Sound and began our southbound journey. Soon we had blue skies and stunning views of the snow-capped mountains on Vancouver Island, including a great view of the Comox Glacier. This spine of mountains on Vancouver Island provides a barrier from the Pacific Ocean, giving the mainland coast some of the most benign weather in BC, hence its nick-name, The Sunshine Coast. It was definitely living up to that name today.
We cruised down Malaspina Strait, along the east coast of Texada Island this time, just to be different from the up bound voyage. We passed the town of Van Anda on Texada, and could see many signs of the mining and quarrying industries on the island. It was so clear, we could also identify some of the mountain peaks on the mainland which we had seen on our trip up Jervis Inlet to Princess Louisa. We had a nice push from the current, and soon found the entrance to Bargain Bay, which is on the outside coast of Pender Harbour. This is an anchorage, but we are back in civilization, with lots of large homes surrounding the bay. (It is always a bit of a shock when we leave the wilderness areas to suddenly be seeing auto traffic and lots of built up areas.)
As it was almost high tide when we anchored, there was enough water for dinghies to cross through Bargain Narrows, the rocky little channel that connects Bargain Bay to Pender Harbour. A sight-seeing and grocery store run was made to Madeira Park over in Pender (rumor has it that lattes were consumed), while other folks relaxed and enjoyed the late afternoon sunshine on their fly bridges. Ahhh….
We cruised down Malaspina Strait, along the east coast of Texada Island this time, just to be different from the up bound voyage. We passed the town of Van Anda on Texada, and could see many signs of the mining and quarrying industries on the island. It was so clear, we could also identify some of the mountain peaks on the mainland which we had seen on our trip up Jervis Inlet to Princess Louisa. We had a nice push from the current, and soon found the entrance to Bargain Bay, which is on the outside coast of Pender Harbour. This is an anchorage, but we are back in civilization, with lots of large homes surrounding the bay. (It is always a bit of a shock when we leave the wilderness areas to suddenly be seeing auto traffic and lots of built up areas.)
As it was almost high tide when we anchored, there was enough water for dinghies to cross through Bargain Narrows, the rocky little channel that connects Bargain Bay to Pender Harbour. A sight-seeing and grocery store run was made to Madeira Park over in Pender (rumor has it that lattes were consumed), while other folks relaxed and enjoyed the late afternoon sunshine on their fly bridges. Ahhh….
Wednesday, October 6, 2010
Desolation Sound Flotilla - October 5, 2010 - Prideaux Haven to Grace Harbour
We woke to a beautiful apricot-tinged sunrise and clear skies. The rugged mountain vistas were quite dramatic in the clear morning light, and several people took advantage of our late start by kayaking and dinghying around the coves, treasuring the magical feeling of this place. The crew of Sea Fox enjoyed a show put on near their boat by a family of playful river otters. Eventually (and somewhat reluctantly) we weighed anchor, and slowly wended our way out of Prideaux Haven to continue our exploration of Desolation Sound.
We wove our way between small islets and islands, took a turn around lovely Tenedos Bay, then made our way round the Gifford Peninsula (which is barely connected to the mainland) to Malaspina Inlet, and then into Grace Harbour. Grace Harbour is another protected anchorage which is part of the Desolation Sound Marine Park. There was plenty of room for all the boats to anchor, which everyone did quite speedily. Again, the kayaks and dinghies were put into the water, and, again, there was a group which opted for a nature hike with Emmelina. We were all quite intrigued by the swarms of moon jellies which seemed to fill the cove, drifting lacily through the water. Just another relaxing day in Desolation Sound.
Our weather has been almost unbelievably beautiful throughout this trip, which has only added to our enjoyment of this area. Our experience has certainly been a far cry from Captain George Vancouver’s description of this area “as gloomy and dismal an aspect as nature could well be supposed to exhibit”. How surprised he would be to know his Desolation Sound draws people from around the world to visit its scenic grandeur.
We wove our way between small islets and islands, took a turn around lovely Tenedos Bay, then made our way round the Gifford Peninsula (which is barely connected to the mainland) to Malaspina Inlet, and then into Grace Harbour. Grace Harbour is another protected anchorage which is part of the Desolation Sound Marine Park. There was plenty of room for all the boats to anchor, which everyone did quite speedily. Again, the kayaks and dinghies were put into the water, and, again, there was a group which opted for a nature hike with Emmelina. We were all quite intrigued by the swarms of moon jellies which seemed to fill the cove, drifting lacily through the water. Just another relaxing day in Desolation Sound.
Our weather has been almost unbelievably beautiful throughout this trip, which has only added to our enjoyment of this area. Our experience has certainly been a far cry from Captain George Vancouver’s description of this area “as gloomy and dismal an aspect as nature could well be supposed to exhibit”. How surprised he would be to know his Desolation Sound draws people from around the world to visit its scenic grandeur.
Desolation Sound Flotilla - October 4, 2010 - Squirrel Cove to Preaux Haven
Our actual travel time was quite short today as we began our exploration of Desolation Sound, so we enjoyed a leisurely morning. It was low tide and the shoreline looked markedly different from last night’s high tide. It was quite clear that oysters flourish among the rocky shorelines here. We weighed our anchors and got underway around 10 am under cloudy, but slowly clearing skies. Captain Bill decided to take us on a meandering route, traveling up Lewis Channel to Teakerne Arm with its beautiful Cassel Cascade waterfall at one end. The boats were able to nose up quite close to the falls while still being in very deep water; it makes for a great photo op! Then we edged along West Redonda Island, past Refuge Cove and across to wend our way between Morgan and Melville Islands on our way to Prideaux Haven, today’s destination.
Prideaux Haven is a well-protected and beautiful anchorage made up of several coves, and is part of the Desolation Sound Provincial Marine Park. Several of the boats anchored in lovely Melanie Cove and other in the outer coves. The clearing skies opened up the spectacular view out the coves to the soaring jagged mountains, including the distinctive pointed peak of Mt. Denman. Dinghies and kayaks were launched for explorations and a few rugged individuals opted for a hike with naturalist Emmelina. Around 5 pm, we all gathered aboard Deception for another little soiree, enjoying the late afternoon sunshine, good food and good company. At twilight, people returned to their boats and a peaceful starlit evening in the heart of Desolation Sound.
Prideaux Haven is a well-protected and beautiful anchorage made up of several coves, and is part of the Desolation Sound Provincial Marine Park. Several of the boats anchored in lovely Melanie Cove and other in the outer coves. The clearing skies opened up the spectacular view out the coves to the soaring jagged mountains, including the distinctive pointed peak of Mt. Denman. Dinghies and kayaks were launched for explorations and a few rugged individuals opted for a hike with naturalist Emmelina. Around 5 pm, we all gathered aboard Deception for another little soiree, enjoying the late afternoon sunshine, good food and good company. At twilight, people returned to their boats and a peaceful starlit evening in the heart of Desolation Sound.
Tuesday, October 5, 2010
Desolation Sound Flotilla - October 3, 2010 - Egmont to Squirrel Cove
We said goodbye this morning to one of Sea Fox’s crew. Jen headed back home this morning via float plane out of Egmont. It was fun getting to know her and have her along for the first half of our trip. We hope to see her again on a future cruise!
Today is the day we enter into Desolation Sound. It is a bit of a long haul (about 50 miles) from Egmont to our anchorage in Squirrel Cove on Cortes Island, but a scenic one: up Malaspina Strait between the mainland and Texada Island, past the towns of Powell River and Lund, through the Copeland Islands (another Provincial Marine Park), past Bliss Landing where the road on the mainland ends, round Sarah Point and into Desolation Sound. Along the way we had a great view of a Stellar Sea Lion haul-out on a rocky islet; those guys are big and noisy! Several sea lions were also being very active in the water – it looked like they were hunting together. There were several groups of “rock sausages” aka harbor seals hauled out on rocks and bobbing in the water. And we were treated to the sight of Dall’s Porpoises leaping past us, with a few of the boats experiencing the joy of having the porpoises play in their bow wakes!
We entered into beautiful Squirrel Cove and had it almost to ourselves (very different from the summertime when it can be very packed). Everyone picked a spot with plenty of room and anchors were set out quite handily, especially considering this was actually our first anchorage on this trip. Dinghies were launched, and it was off to the Squirrel Cove General Store to restock some provisions, especially fresh produce. It may be a small store, but the selection and service were excellent. Then it was back to our boats after a long day for dinner and a cozy night on the hook.
Today is the day we enter into Desolation Sound. It is a bit of a long haul (about 50 miles) from Egmont to our anchorage in Squirrel Cove on Cortes Island, but a scenic one: up Malaspina Strait between the mainland and Texada Island, past the towns of Powell River and Lund, through the Copeland Islands (another Provincial Marine Park), past Bliss Landing where the road on the mainland ends, round Sarah Point and into Desolation Sound. Along the way we had a great view of a Stellar Sea Lion haul-out on a rocky islet; those guys are big and noisy! Several sea lions were also being very active in the water – it looked like they were hunting together. There were several groups of “rock sausages” aka harbor seals hauled out on rocks and bobbing in the water. And we were treated to the sight of Dall’s Porpoises leaping past us, with a few of the boats experiencing the joy of having the porpoises play in their bow wakes!
We entered into beautiful Squirrel Cove and had it almost to ourselves (very different from the summertime when it can be very packed). Everyone picked a spot with plenty of room and anchors were set out quite handily, especially considering this was actually our first anchorage on this trip. Dinghies were launched, and it was off to the Squirrel Cove General Store to restock some provisions, especially fresh produce. It may be a small store, but the selection and service were excellent. Then it was back to our boats after a long day for dinner and a cozy night on the hook.
Desolation Sound Flotilla - October 2, 2010 - Princess Louisa to Egmont
We enjoyed another leisurely morning at Princess Louisa Inlet, as the timing for exiting Malibu Rapids precluded a departure before 1:30 pm. We took our last hikes to Chatterbox Falls, visited with each other and the other folks we shared the dock with, and then readied our boats for departure. It was time to continue our adventure….
Out through Malibu Rapids (at slack), we retraced our path down Jervis Inlet and its constituent parts: Queen’s Reach, Princess Royal Reach, and Prince of Wales Reach. This long fjord has such sheer cliffs and deep, deep depths that there are really no anchorages along the way. It may be the same route, but it looks very different going in the opposite direction – and the autumn colors are definitely more noticeable than they were two days ago.
We cruised into Egmont and had excellent conditions for tying up to the dock at the Back Eddy Marina. It was fairly late by then, so most of the fleet quickly made their way up to the Back Eddy Pub, home of the famous Skookum Burger (a giant hamburger). Sea Fox’s crew shared a Skookum Burger, but most of us opted for the somewhat smaller Baby Skookum. No matter what the size, the burgers were excellent, as were the yam fries. The Back Eddy is an NWE favorite, and we all enjoyed a very convivial evening.
Later that night some of the crews were awakened by the pitter patter of little raccoon feet on their decks. Unfortunately for Deception we had accidentally left our hatch open to the lazerette containing the garbage stores. The raccoons wasted no time finding our mistake. It took a bit of encouragement to shoo them off; thankfully before too much mess was made! We’ll remember next time to make sure all items attractive to raccoons are well stowed before going to bed.
Out through Malibu Rapids (at slack), we retraced our path down Jervis Inlet and its constituent parts: Queen’s Reach, Princess Royal Reach, and Prince of Wales Reach. This long fjord has such sheer cliffs and deep, deep depths that there are really no anchorages along the way. It may be the same route, but it looks very different going in the opposite direction – and the autumn colors are definitely more noticeable than they were two days ago.
We cruised into Egmont and had excellent conditions for tying up to the dock at the Back Eddy Marina. It was fairly late by then, so most of the fleet quickly made their way up to the Back Eddy Pub, home of the famous Skookum Burger (a giant hamburger). Sea Fox’s crew shared a Skookum Burger, but most of us opted for the somewhat smaller Baby Skookum. No matter what the size, the burgers were excellent, as were the yam fries. The Back Eddy is an NWE favorite, and we all enjoyed a very convivial evening.
Later that night some of the crews were awakened by the pitter patter of little raccoon feet on their decks. Unfortunately for Deception we had accidentally left our hatch open to the lazerette containing the garbage stores. The raccoons wasted no time finding our mistake. It took a bit of encouragement to shoo them off; thankfully before too much mess was made! We’ll remember next time to make sure all items attractive to raccoons are well stowed before going to bed.
Monday, October 4, 2010
Desolation Sound Flotilla - October 1, 2010 - Princess Louisa Lay Day
We enjoyed a beautiful lay day in Princess Louisa Provincial Marine Park. We awoke as the sun lit up the fjord and enjoyed a leisurely morning cup of coffee and breakfast. Naturalist Emmelina and Captain Bill led an intrepid group of hikers on a morning hike (scramble!) upwards to an old trapper’s cabin and waterfall with an outlook that looked out over the entire inlet. Intrepid, indeed, as it is a very strenuous climb! There were dinghy explorations, as well, and the less adventurous among us soaked up the sunshine and this beautiful setting on our fly bridges.
Around five o’clock, we pulled the deck chairs out to the dock and began to gather for appetizers and a potluck supper. The crew of Deception provided the salmon, with the help of several of the other boats’ grills, the rest of the fleet contributed delicious side dishes, and a tasty feast was devoured by all. The hiker/climbers impressed us all with their tales of strength and endurance (and sore muscles), and a delightful evening of camaraderie was enjoyed. As darkness fell, we drifted back to our boats as the peace of this special place enveloped us.
Around five o’clock, we pulled the deck chairs out to the dock and began to gather for appetizers and a potluck supper. The crew of Deception provided the salmon, with the help of several of the other boats’ grills, the rest of the fleet contributed delicious side dishes, and a tasty feast was devoured by all. The hiker/climbers impressed us all with their tales of strength and endurance (and sore muscles), and a delightful evening of camaraderie was enjoyed. As darkness fell, we drifted back to our boats as the peace of this special place enveloped us.
Desolation Sound Flotilla - September 30, 2010 - Fisherman's Resort & Marina to Princess Louisa
We woke to fog this morning, as we had an early departure in order to transit the famed Malibu Rapids at slack tide. The fog lifted as the sky lightened, and by the time we exited Pender Harbour into Agamemnon Channel we had full sunshine and cloudless blue skies for our trip up stunning Jervis Inlet. The rugged mountain vistas are impressive, showing unmistakably the glacial action that formed this fjord. Amazingly, we saw only one other boat on our trip up to Princess Louisa Inlet on this gorgeous day; very different from the summer season.
Our timing at Malibu Rapids was perfect – it was like a millpond – and then we were into Princess Louisa Inlet. Magnificent sheer cliffs tower above us, streaked with bridal veil-like waterfalls. This place is truly awe-inspiring; it’s easy to see why several writers have described it as the eighth wonder of the world. There were only a few other boats on the park dock, so there was plenty of room for all of us as were greeted and helped in by the park ranger. From the dock we look right at spectacular Chatterbox Falls, the jewel at the head of the inlet (“Chatterbox” seems a bit of a misnomer – it’s more like a roaring cataract), and the crews wasted no time in making the short hike to the base of the falls.
This special place has been preserved for us thanks first to the man who first homesteaded here in the early 1900’s, James “Mac” MacDonald. He strongly felt that no one person should own this place and that it should be available for all to visit. His efforts combined with the boating community and many volunteers/donors led to the formation of the present BC Provincial Marine Park. The International Princess Louisa Society still actively raises funds to acquire land surrounding the park to preserve and protect this area.
The sunshine lasted well into the late afternoon despite the towering walls of the fjord, and most of those who weren’t on shore or exploring in their dinghies could be found basking in the sun atop their fly bridges. A few puffy clouds appeared just at sunset, but no more. We were treated to an incredible starlit sky streaked by the Milky Way undimmed by the lights of civilization. It was a truly perfect day!
Our timing at Malibu Rapids was perfect – it was like a millpond – and then we were into Princess Louisa Inlet. Magnificent sheer cliffs tower above us, streaked with bridal veil-like waterfalls. This place is truly awe-inspiring; it’s easy to see why several writers have described it as the eighth wonder of the world. There were only a few other boats on the park dock, so there was plenty of room for all of us as were greeted and helped in by the park ranger. From the dock we look right at spectacular Chatterbox Falls, the jewel at the head of the inlet (“Chatterbox” seems a bit of a misnomer – it’s more like a roaring cataract), and the crews wasted no time in making the short hike to the base of the falls.
This special place has been preserved for us thanks first to the man who first homesteaded here in the early 1900’s, James “Mac” MacDonald. He strongly felt that no one person should own this place and that it should be available for all to visit. His efforts combined with the boating community and many volunteers/donors led to the formation of the present BC Provincial Marine Park. The International Princess Louisa Society still actively raises funds to acquire land surrounding the park to preserve and protect this area.
The sunshine lasted well into the late afternoon despite the towering walls of the fjord, and most of those who weren’t on shore or exploring in their dinghies could be found basking in the sun atop their fly bridges. A few puffy clouds appeared just at sunset, but no more. We were treated to an incredible starlit sky streaked by the Milky Way undimmed by the lights of civilization. It was a truly perfect day!
Desolation Sound Flotilla - September 29, 2010 - Poet's Cove to Fisherman's Resort & Marina
Today was our longest day, travel time and distance-wise. It was also a challenging one, as we crossed the Strait of Georgia, the largest open body of water we have to traverse on this trip. The good news was that we had a beautiful sunny day; however, we also had NW winds gusting over 20 knots and very choppy seas, which made for a very bouncy ride until we got into the lee of the eastern (mainland) shore. It was the roughest water that some of our clients had ever been in. Trusty Deception, being the heaviest boat with stabilizers, ploughed through relatively comfortably while some of the smaller 36 foot boats felt a bit like they were on a roller coaster ride!
But that was only one part of the trip. We started the day with a beautiful sunrise over Ganges Harbour, and a delightful cruise along Trincomali Channel with Salt Spring Island to our port and Galiano Island to starboard. The Gulf Islands are a prime cruising area and they were really showing off this morning! In the summer months the boat traffic can be quite dense, but we were privileged to have the channel almost to ourselves. We were headed north toward Princess Louisa and Desolation Sound, though, so that meant we had to leave the Gulf Islands behind, head out through Porlier Pass and into the sloppy seas.
After the waves (and our stomachs) settled down, we were more willing to take note of our naturalist’s updates. It was fascinating to watch two giant log rafts being towed by not-so-big tugs past the Thormanby Islands, complete with both birds and seals bumming a free, if slow, ride. We cruised into beautiful Pender Harbour and found our moorage at Fisherman’s Resort and Marina in Hospital Bay, a lovely marina with plenty of room for all our boats. We celebrated our successful crossing of the Strait of Georgia with a social hour aboard Deception (lots of yummy appetizers!) – a fine and fitting way to end a long but adventurous day!
Desolation Sound Flotilla - September, 28,2010 - Bellingham to Poet's Cove, Ganges
The NWE 2010 Desolation Sound Flotilla is underway, under clearing skies and with calm seas as we set off across Bellingham Bay. We are a group of six boats – Spellbound, Navigator, Victoria, Sea Fox, and Grand Adventure, led by the ever faithful Deception. We set our course to cross north of Orcas Island, skirting Matia and Sucia Islands on our way to the Pender Islands and the Canadian Customs station in Bedwell Harbour. Along the way, our naturalist, Emmelina, noted that many of the sea birds we were seeing were beginning to don their winter plumage, especially the common murres and marbled murrelets. Lots of curious harbor seals swam by, clearly checking us out.
The fleet took no time to get accustomed to their chartered vessels and all seemed to be enjoying their first day out on the water.
By the time we got to Bedwell Harbour, we had full sunshine and sparkling seas – Welcome to Canada! After clearing customs, we set off again, rounding North Pender Island. We noted that quite a lot of those harbor seals were taking advantage of the sunny weather and basking on the rocky islets that dotted the shoreline, demonstrating why the NWE crew fondly dubs them “Rock Sausages”. From North Pender we headed almost in a straight line for Ganges on Salt Spring Island, our destination for the night. Salt Spring Island is the largest of the Gulf Islands and Ganges is the largest town. After tying up at our berths at Salt Spring Marina in Ganges Harbour, most of the crews went ashore to explore this charming town and to finish provisioning those items that have cross-border restrictions (primarily fresh produce and alcoholic libations). Several restaurants received rave reviews, and well-fed and well-satisfied with our lot in life, we settled in for a cozy evening under a beautiful starry sky (with Jupiter shining prominently) after an exciting first day.
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