Leg 1, Day 7 - Hot Springs Cove to Friendly Cove

This morning we set sail for Friendly Cove, about 40 miles north of Hot Springs Cove. We were sad to leave the soothing embrace of the hot springs but looked forward to continuing our journey and seeing what new experiences lay ahead. We made a careful entry into Friendly Cove in the early afternoon. The opening to the cove is lined with rocks which aren’t visible during high tide, so a gentle approach and watchful maneuvering and is necessary to avoid any pitfalls. Once in the snug and sheltered cove, Deception dropped anchor and the rest of the flotilla rafted up against her creating a solid mass of Grand Banks. Once settled, Jordan ferried everyone around the corner to the former location of the village of Yuquot. Yuquot was a first nation village that stood on the hill above Friendly Cove. The site has been continuously inhabited for over 4300 years. In the mid-1900’s the village relocated to another site, but one family remained as caretakers of the land. They welcome visitors and are excited to share information about their history and culture. It’s hard to imagine this small, peaceful community as a once thriving harbor.


Just as our Commander of Small Vessels made a beach landing onto Nootka, a Coast Guard helicopter flew overhead and landed at the CG Station just next to us. They handed off a package and then disappeared into the mist as quickly as they had appeared. That is how mail is delivered to the lighthouses in remote BC. As we made our way up the beach and onto the boardwalk which took us into “town” a local member of the Mowachaht tribe greeted us along the path. He was very friendly and anxious to share with us where to see their historic sites. He also informed us that he had caught about 50 pounds of halibut yesterday and would be willing to sell it to us for only $6 a pound. We knew what we were having for dinner tonight! Murray ended up buying enough fish for a halibut feast for the entire fleet and of course people bought more for their own reserve. In total we ended up buying about 25-30 lbs of halibut, a great way to support the local economy.

One of the main sites in town was a beautiful totem pole that was erected in 1929 and toppled in a large storm during the winter of 1994. The ornately carved figures of a bear, raven, human and eagle had lost most of their color and were returning to the earth, being overgrown by grasses and salmonberries. Custom dictates that a fallen totem pole cannot be re-erected; a new one must be created in its place. We spoke with a local carver who is renowned for beautiful carvings. He told us that he has been given permission from the local elders and chief to carve a new totem pole but he is waiting for the right 40+ foot log to wash up on shore so he can begin carving the replacement pole. The carver, Sanford Williams, allowed us to go visit his workshop where we could see some of his work. His shop was right on the beach overlooking the bay. As soon as we opened the door, the aroma of freshly cut cedar surrounded us and beckoned us in. All of Sanford’s artwork is created by hand; he even makes his own tools. He had gorgeously detailed masks and wood carvings hung on the walls and a large stripped log which will eventually be a wolf that is being carved for a gallery in Tofino. Sanford’s son, Mike, was also there and was following in his father’s footsteps; he was working on completing his first painted carving.

The local church in the village had been turned into a museum which held fantastic historical pictures of the surrounding area and the village as it once was. One of the highlights of the museum was two magnificent stained glass windows donated by the Russian government in 1954: one depicting the first Catholic missionaries making contact with the native people, and the other showing the Spanish Captain Bodega-Quadra and the British Captain Cook signing the Nootka Convention, a very important historical event which took place in Nootka Sound in the 1700’s.

Back at the boats, a reception was held on Deception in which Captain Brian cooked up the halibut for the whole flotilla. Everyone brought an appetizer and their beverages of choice, and another pleasant evening was spent reliving in the events of the day. What a great way to end another memorable day on Mother Goose.