Mother Goose - July 29, 2010 - Leg 5, Day 9 - Meyers Chuck to Ketchikan

We cast off from our moorings in Meyers Chuck, but not before cinnamon rolls were delivered to our boats by a local baker – such service! This is our last day of cruising and it was hard to leave the pristine beauty of our wilderness cove, knowing we were heading back to civilization and the end of our trip. As we cruised down Clarence Strait toward Ketchikan, we began to see more traffic – cruise ships, pleasure crafts, as well as fishing vessels. But our wildlife experiences were not yet over, for a pod of Dall’s Porpoises sped over to several of our boats, even riding the bow wakes of Inside Passage and Navigator for quite some time – a truly awesome experience!

But soon we turned the corner into Tongass Narrows, the waterway on which Ketchikan is located, and suddenly it was an urban landscape. Float planes looked like they were aiming directly for us as they headed in for landings on either side of us, ferries crossed back and forth in front of us going to and fro from the airport, giant cruise ships dominated the Ketchikan waterfront, and the maritime traffic in general was more than we’d seen on the whole trip!

Far too soon, our Best of Alaska adventure comes to an end. The boats are fueled and snug in their slips, folks go off to explore town and purchase any last souvenirs of Alaska. One more night on the boats and then it will be time to say good-bye to our new friends – always the hardest part of any trip. As the crew of Navigator put it, we start out as strangers, but end the journey as family! Thank you to all the goslings for a wonderful journey!

Mother Goose - July 28, 2010 - Leg 5, Day 8 - Wrangell to Meyers Chuck

After our port o’call, Mother Goose and her goslings were anticipating being back on the water and underway again. We left Wrangell and continued our journey southward on another beautiful Alaska summer morning. We cruised down Zemovia Strait, with Wrangell Island to port and Etolin Island to starboard; the strait is actually a pretty open channel, but there is a tricky spot known appropriately as “The Narrows” where we have to zigzag in single file through a rocky passage. After successfully negotiating the Narrows, we kept a sharp lookout for wildlife, and thanks to the eagle eyes of naturalist Emmelina, we were rewarded with the sighting of a black bear on the shore. We hovered quietly and were able to watch it for awhile, giving everyone a chance to see it, especially the crew of Mystic Eagle who had yet to see a bear.

By early afternoon we had arrived at the charming rustic hamlet of Meyers Chuck which is nestled around a lovely protected cove. There was room on the public dock for a couple of the boats and the others anchored out in the cove. The local people opened their gallery/gift shop for us and took our orders for cinnamon rolls. Most of the crews went for an exploratory hike on shore, through the forest to the rocky shoreline, or took their dinghies out and around the cove. Then it was time to gather for our “last supper” wherein we try to clean out our larders and have a potluck onboard Deception. A great time was had by all as we shared stories, swapped addresses, got a little misty-eyed, and finished up with a great talent show.

Mother Goose - July 27, 2010 - Leg 5, Day 7 - Wrangell

Today was a lay day in Wrangell. After the rainy beginning to our trip, we are really enjoying the sunny weather – it was hot by SE Alaska standards! Taking advantage of the morning low tide, Naturalist Emmelina led a group to see the ancient petroglyph carvings at Petroglyph Beach, a state historical site. No one knows for sure who carved these petroglyphs, possibly by early Stikine Tlingits about 1,000 years ago, but maybe even older as archaeological finds show that man was present here more than 8,000 years ago.

The crew of Mystic Eagle put out a crab pot and caught – a halibut! The crew of Arctic Star took advantage of the lovely day and went golfing at Muskeg Meadows, SE Alaska’s only regulation 9-hole golf course. Several people went kayaking, others visited the history museum in town. (Wrangell began as a Tlingit settlement, then became in turn a Russian fort, a British fort, then an American fort and town, and has experienced several gold rush booms and busts). In the afternoon, several members of the fleet, along with Emmelina, went on a jet boat river trip up the mighty Stikine River, the fastest flowing navigable river in North America, and one of the few remaining wild rivers. A full day indeed, but we are ready to be underway again and off to Meyers Chuck.

Mother Goose - July 26, 2010 - Leg 5, Day 6 - Petersburg to Wrangell

We woke to clear skies, an auspicious beginning to our transit of Wrangell Narrows. Petersburg lies at the north end of this 22 mile long narrow channel which is a major passage for the Alaska State Ferries and fishing boats, as well as barges. The tide was low, so we could see how narrow the actual passage was, with drying tidal flats to the right and left. We carefully watched the channel markers and kept approaching vessels apprised of our presence. Even so, it was a bit intimidating passing first a tug with barge in tow, stacked high with containers, and then an Alaska State Ferry. We all kept well to the side to allow the ferry to pass; it was moving fast and it was big!

We came out of the south end of the narrows into Sumner Strait and were surrounded by glorious wide-open views of islands and glacier-capped mountains. We cruised smoothly into Wrangell and were berthed at the town’s new Heritage Harbor marina, an excellent facility. After settling in, we walked into town and checked out the sights of historic Wrangell, a friendly community of about 2,000 people located at the north end of Wrangell Island, near the delta of the Stikine River. Gradually, we made our way back to our boats and enjoyed a relaxing time soaking up the late evening sun.

Mother Goose - July 25, 2010 - Leg 6, Day 4 - Petersburg Lay Day

Today on our lay day in Petersburg several early risers were treated to the sight of a pod of Orcas traveling down Wrangell Narrows just outside the marina, thanks to the eagle-eyed spotting of our naturalist, Emmelina. Most of the crews of the Mother Goose fleet spent the day exploring the town, shopping, and generally enjoying a lazy sunny day, except for a group of avid fishermen from Mystic Eagle who went on a fishing charter into the teeming waters off of Petersburg and came back with enough halibut to share with the fleet. In the late afternoon, everyone gathered aboard Deception for cocktails and potluck appetizers (lots of delicious appetizers!) and we finished up our soiree by celebrating Peggy’s birthday in shipboard style. After eating dessert first, the fleet slowly returned to their boats where dinner was an optional activity! We prepared our boats for tomorrow we head out down Wrangell Narrows.

Mother Goose - July 24, 2010 - Leg 5, Day 4 - Cannery Cove to Petersburg

Petersburg bound! We awoke to clearer skies this morning and were treated to a glorious view of the snow-capped mountains around our anchorage. We headed out in calm seas into Frederick Sound where to our immense pleasure the whale sightings came fast and furious. Humpbacks blew and sounded all around us (lots of flukes!) and we even saw some Orca whales in the distance, probably transient Orca according to naturalist Emmelina (the ones that hunt marine mammals as opposed to salmon).

We arrived at the charming town of Petersburg on Mitkof Island, a town which celebrates its Norwegian heritage, not to mention its abundant halibut and salmon fishing. Most of the crews went into town for a dinner out and a birthday was celebrated on Mystic Eagle.

Mother Goose - July 23, 2010 - Leg 5, Day 3 - South Sawyer Glacier to Cannery Cove

On Day 3, we earned our seafaring stripes as we hit some pretty sloppy seas on our way down Stephens Passage. However, the rough water doesn’t bother the aquatic wildlife and we were treated to some good humpback whale sightings. Things smoothed out as we got in the lee of the islands and soon we made a snug harbor in Cannery Cove. The dinghies went into the water and we had our first bear sightings of the trip – a mom with four cubs! Soon we were all cozy in our comfy boats; a good place to be on a rainy night.

Mother Goose - July 22, 2010 - Leg 5, Day 2 - Tracy Arm Cove to South Sawyer Glacier

We awoke to a clearing day for our trip up Tracy Arm – a truly spectacular trip up the fjord with soaring cliffs above us and over a thousand feet of water depth beneath us. The waterfalls and views of hanging valleys and the striations along the rock faces all attest to the mighty forces of the glaciers that carved this landscape.

Pretty soon we were dodging an increasing number of bergy bits, gleaming blue and white. The boats fell in line behind Deception as she gently threaded her way through the ice. Deception received a call from Adventure Bound, a sightseeing cruise operator, telling us to come in closer to the Sawyer Glacier as there was plenty of ice-free room for our boats. We took his good advice and were rewarded with incredible views of the tidewater glacier, which calved into the sea several times as we watched. There were hundreds of seals dotting the ice floes and we even saw mountain goats on the cliffs above us, not to mention the eagles soaring around us. What an amazing experience! Special thanks to Adventure Bound for their generosity in sharing this special place with us – Alaskans are the best!

Mother Goose - July 21, 2010 - Leg 5, Day 1 - Juneau to Tracy Arm Cove

Mother Goose is off on Day 1 of Leg 5, leaving Juneau on a misty morning with bald eagles flying overhead escorting us out of the Auke Bay Harbor. Our intrepid mariners coped well with the intermittent patches of fog, but visibility was generally not too poor. It was definitely clear enough to enjoy our first whale sighting of the trip! Humpbacks off of Taku Harbor! Lots of blows and flukes were displayed and the crew of Mystic Eagle enjoyed a particularly close view of the whales. Nothing like a little whale breath to make your day. Just before entering into Tracy Arm we saw our first bergy bits (technical term), small icebergs rising out of the water 3 to 13 feet (the one tenth of the iceberg that shows). We settled into our beautiful anchorage in No Name Cove (a.k.a Tracy Arm Cove). Some enjoyed a well-deserved rest while others set off right away setting crab pots and going ashore to explore.

Mother Goose Leg 4, Day 9 - Swanson Harbor to Juneau

Today was officially the last day of a trip we’ll never forget. We departed Swanson Harbor to go to Juneau, our final destination. We were astonished by what we saw on the way- a breaching whale. The large whale spun into the air, water rocketing off its sides, displaying its speckled black and white underside. Right after that, another whale playfully slapped its long pectoral fin, putting on a show for us. We believed the whale breached just for us and our last day together to always remember the phenomenal trip and wildlife we encountered.

We all reminisced on all the wonderful aspects of the trip- glaciers, eagles. whales, small fishing towns, bears, socializing together, sea otters, sea lions, nature walks, vast mountain ranges, and the list goes on. We’ll always hold on to the experiences we had together, and the memories of Mother Goose Leg 4 2010 will never be forgotten.

Mother Goose Leg 4, Day 8 - North Sandy Cove to Swanson Harbor

The first half of the day was spent traveling from North Sandy Cove to Swanson Harbor, a fun trip enriched with a lot of great wildlife! On the way not only were more whales and sea otters spotted but we went past South Marble Island, an island filled with more wildlife than one could ever imagine! The island was a sea lion haul-out, so hundreds of sea lions lay sprawled along the rocks, jumping into the water, and just sitting in the sun. Also on the island, many species of nesting birds sat waiting for their young. Surrounding the island were puffins, an unusual bird with a bright orange beak and feet.

Shortly after we arrived at Swanson Harbor, Emmelina led a fun nature walk on shore. We walked to the point and got to see a beautiful view of the surrounding area, as we walked on many kinds of flowers, lichen, and other flora. Although on our way back, the rain started to fall and the tide began to rise. The water came up to our boots and we were all so wet, it felt as though we had just gotten out of a shower! We were so beyond wet at that point. We laughed and joked until we got into the soaking dinghy, then our boots filled with water to the brim.

Since this was the last full day of the trip, the traditional Last Supper was held which includes a dinner in which everyone contributes their leftover food, a talent show, and a slideshow of pictures taken throughout the leg. And for a special treat, two eagles sat outside our boat for hours, watching the commotion from outside. After we were all stuffed, each boat did something different and great to demonstrate their talents! By the end of the night, everyone had laughed so much, our bellies hurt!

Mother Goose Leg 4, Day 7 - Reid Inlet to North Sandy Cove

We began the beautiful day with a trip to the whale carcass we had seen the day before only a short way from Reid Inlet. We cruised to the carcass and we saw a bear munching on the blubber. A great way to start the morning! Inside Passage was even luckier and saw a wolf approach the carcass. But, it didn’t take long for the wolf to head the other direction because as soon as he spotted the bear, he realized the whale carcass might not be the place to be at that moment!

After the fun trip to the carcass, the fleet headed across the bay to Tidal Inlet. But, the trip there was no ordinary trip through the ocean. On the way, we saw one brown bear after the next, either lying on shore, running, or even pooping. Also, as we approached the face of a mountain, we were lucky enough to spot many mountain goats both sitting and walking around.

Our final destination for the day was North Sandy Cove, and just after the boats anchored for the night, harbor porpoises were seen happily swimming past. After a great up-close look at those marine mammals, Emmelina led a walk on the long shore surrounding the cove.

Just as we prepared for the night and we thought the day couldn’t get any better, a black bear going for a late night swim in the harbor swam directly in front of deception’s dinghy. We all prepared for the next day, sad that the trip has almost come to an end.

Mother Goose Leg 4, Day 6 - Blue Mouse Cove to Reid Inlet

The whole point of going to Glacier Bay is to see glaciers, and that’s exactly what we did today! We made our way from Blue Mouse Cove to the base of the Margerie and Grand Pacific Glaciers. It looked as if none of the Grand Pacific was left, but really it was just entirely covered in dirt from its terminal moraine. The Margerie Glacier on the other hand, was everything one could ask for in a glacier! It’s deep blue color and giant cracks were only two of its beautiful features. And to add on top of that, it even calved twice. Calving is when a bit of the glacier breaks off of the face with a loud bang and falls into the water. In addition, just for fun, some of the boats collected “bergi bits” from the water to enjoy in their cocktails later that evening.

After we further explored the magnificent glaciers, the fleet cruised down to the entrance of the Johns Hopkins Inlet but we couldn’t go past Jaw Point, about halfway up the arm, because it is temporarily closed to avoid disturbing newborn seal pups. At the entrance though, lay another massive glacier, sparkling in the intermittent sunshine.

After we left our morning’s glacier adventure, we didn’t realize the next adventure we’d be in for! The boats came into Reid Inlet where we would anchor for the night right in front of Reid Glacier. Emmelina suggested a walk on the Reid Glacier. As Navigator pulled out their dinghy to head towards the shore, their engine stopped and they were stranded in the middle of the bay with the current pushing them steadily away from the anchored boats. Luckily, Deceptions’ dinghy was coming by and we had to save them! At first the two boats were connected by just hands we spun in circles in the current, but after instructions from Brian, the two dinghies made it back to the big boats by traveling in idle with Deception’s dinghy dragging Navigator’s by their bow line, everyone laughing and singing.

After our peaceful walk through waterfalls and the glacier ice, our magnificent glacier adventures for the day had come to an end. We fell asleep to a rare clear sky, as the mountains surrounding the glacier stood clear, making for a beautiful night.

Mother Goose Leg 4, Day 5 - Elfin Cove to Blue Mouse Cove

Flukes! As we exited Elfin Cove, almost immediately, whales surrounded the boats, spouting and diving as they fed on the sea creatures brought up by the currents in front of the cove. One mama whale was swimming along with her calf, so we took care to leave enough room between us to avoid disturbing the animals.

Also, as we cruised, it seemed like everywhere we looked, we saw sea otters. Emmelina explained that the otter population has rebounded from near extinction to around 1500 otters here in Glacier Bay alone!

After hanging around with the whales for some time, we continued to Bartlett Cove where we would stay for just a few hours. In our time there, some of us took a hike through the dense forest, others ate lunch at the lodge overlooking the vast ocean, and we all were required to watch a video about Glacier Bay National Park.

After an afternoon at Bartlett Cove, we went to Blue Mouse Cove, where we would anchor for the night. As the night approached, the sky finally cleared so we got the opportunity to see the beginning of the glorious mountains surrounding Glacier Bay.

Mother Goose Leg 4, Day 4 - Elfin Cove Lay Day

We all enjoyed our last day in Elfin Cove, exploring the town even more and enjoying its beautiful atmosphere. Right outside of the harbor, the Fairweather Mountains lay, making their appearance every so often when the weather’s just right. In the evenings, the massive range glows underneath the sunset as the clouds hover above, painting a picture-perfect night.

The day was spent in many ways, but some of which were, going out to fish, relaxing by the boats, or spending two hours out in a dinghy with humpback whales. The fishing trip was a crowd’s favorite, as the people who decided to go split into two boats: salmon and halibut. When they arrived back from the trip, the results were very pleasing; we had caught many halibut, rockfish, sea bass, and salmon. The next highlight was Inside Passage’s dinghy ride out into the harbor where they spent hours surrounded by humpback whales, only about 100 yards away. What a treat!

Because of the great fishing results, we spent the night feasting on all of the day’s catch, whether it was a salmon filet, or halibut fried in bread crumbs. Everyone had their own fish fries, as we found it a good way to spend quality time with the people on our boats and other boats too, and a great way to enjoy a delicious, fresh meal.

Before long, the day had come to an end and our stomachs were stuffed more than we ever thought was possible. A fun next few days in Glacier Bay had us more than excited, and we all got to bed fairly quickly, preparing to enter the 45 mile National Park in just less than 24 hours.

Mother Goose Leg 4, Day 3 - Pelican to Elfin Cove

Today was a laid-back day filled with relaxing, enjoying the beautiful atmosphere, and doing as we please. The entire fleet had a pleasurable morning to sleep in, as two of the boats departed at 10:30am, while the remaining two stayed at the local, Lisianski Café, to watch the final World Cup game.

We cruised through Lisianski Strait and through a corner of Icy Strait to reach our evening’s destination of Elfin Cove. This is a trip through classic fjords with tall, tree covered mountains on either side – covered mysteriously with clouds on this day.

By the time all the boats met up once again in Elfin Cove, the rain had faded out and the sun had burned through the clouds. Some of us stayed inside, taking advantage of the chance to sit down and talk or read, while others walked along the old boardwalk surrounding this unique little town. Massive Sitka Spruce surrounds the town, and the cute houses, meandering board walks, and friendly people create a charming ambience, forming a welcoming vibe throughout the cove.

We all prepared for the night as the darkness began to settle in and the eagles circled above. The boats rested on the still water as we drifted off, waiting for another exciting day in Elfin Cove to come tomorrow.

Mother Goose Leg 4, Day 2 - Klag Bay to Pelican

We awoke to the refreshing morning mist and scent of Sitka Spruce encircling the bay. As we departed Klag Bay, the fleet ventured once again into the North Pacific, feeling the rising and falling of the boats in the swells as we watched the waves crash against the shore.

On our way, we came across many more sea otters. One of the otters we passed was using its paws to crack open its prey. Emmelina provided a naturalist’s explanation of the use of tools by marine mammals. Sea otters pick a tool to use and keep it with them, held in a fold of skin, when they dive for food. We were fortunate to pass a seal lion violently slapping a salmon in its mouth to stun it, as seagulls flew above waiting for their share of morsels to be left behind. He was too busy “preparing” his meal to take notice of the boats passing close by.

The waves began to flatten and the ride became more comfortable as the boats entered Lisianksi Straight. We continued up this beautiful fjord until we reached the small town of Pelican. We all went our separate ways as some went to the famous Rosie’s Bar, some walked the length of the boardwalk surrounding the town, and others just relaxed after the long day.

Pelican is suffering the recent loss of their fish processing plant which closed two years ago. The town population is slowly shrinking now that this base of income is gone but the facilities remain and are excellent. Still, there is a sense that this is a town which needs to be visited sooner rather than later.

The night slowly came to an end as the town of Pelican rested under a luminescent rainbow, coming out from the clouds. We were treated to Pelican’s 4th of July fireworks on the 10th, because it has rained every night since the 4th preventing them from holding their celebration. The crashing fireworks came to an end and we all went to bed.

Mother Goose Leg 4, Day 1 - Sitka to Klag Bay

The Mother Goose fleet began an exciting adventure at 8am this morning as the boats departed calm Sitka waters. The town was enveloped by many gray clouds, but that did not seem to affect everyone’s attitudes, particularly since the past two days had been very sunny. After the usual safety briefing and discussion of open water and narrow, rocky passages to come, each person left the dock with some trepidation but a lot of anticipation. Everyone produced a smile and a wave to the camera, and thus Leg 4 began.

We spent the morning weaving through tricky, rocky, Piehl Passage, as the boats felt the swells of the North Pacific Ocean beneath them. As we cruised through, we spotted sea otters relaxing by the boat, floating on their backs, while opening freshly caught shellfish for an afternoon meal. Eagles were perched on trees and were caught soaring through the air before swooping down to catch any unwary salmon that happened by. Before we knew it, we had arrived ready to anchor, in Klag Bay.

Once in the bay, everyone trekked over to the remains of an old mine on the shore. We searched through ram-shackled out buildings and old, rusted rail car tracks by the entrance to the mine. On the way, we spotted freshly chewed devils club shoots, and later the resultant pile of bear scat not far off. We left the mine with samples of mining cores in our pockets to remain as souvenirs of the day.

After a long day of exploring, the fleet ended with appetizers and laughs on Deception. We all settled down to the very gentle rocking of the boats in this quite cove and prepared to embark on yet another journey.

Mother Goose Leg 3, Day 9 – Goddard Hot Springs to Sitka

With Sitka only 18 miles to the north, we started our day’s journey at 10 am. We experience a sort of culture shock as we reentered civilization. Not long into our trip we began seeing more and more boats. For most of our adventure we had seen very few boats if we had seen any at all. Now, even the outskirts of a town in Southeast Alaska felt like the rat race.

We wound our way through the numerous rocks, reefs and islets which lie just south of Sitka. There were sea otters everywhere, foraging, frolicking, or just resting among the giant kelp forests. There must have been a lot of fish around because the fishermen, both commercial and recreational, were out in full force. Before long, we turned the last corner and cruised under the bridge into Sitka. We refueled the boats and filled them with water at the fuel dock before making our way to our moorage sites. Normally, we would tie up in the large harbor which sits about a mile and a half north of downtown. Today, however, we got lucky. There is a dock normally used by small cruise ships when they come into Sitka. No cruise ships were schedule to use the dock for a few days, so we were allowed to tie up here. This particular dock sits just a block or two from downtown Sitka, and provided an ideal place for us to go out and explore the town.

After tying up, explore is just what we did. Everyone went their separate ways and walked around Sitka. People shopped, visited churches and historical sites, or just enjoyed the buzz of human activity. In the evening, we all met up for one last cocktail hour and a dinner at a restaurant nearby. Afterwards, we returned for our last night on the boats before departing the next day. We had undertaken an incredible voyage that took us to a number of incredibly beautiful places, but like all things, this too had to come to an end.

Mother Goose Leg 3, Day 8 – Scow Bay to Goddard Hot Springs

The extra distance that we cruised to take us to Scow Bay significantly decreased the distance we would have to cruise to reach Goddard Hot Springs, our destination for today. Because we did not have far to go and almost all of our cruising would be through protected waters, we did not depart until 10 am. As the radio reports had predicted, the weather had deteriorated a little further. A misty rain fell all around us and visibility was greatly reduced. Fortunately, we had been practicing using our radars when the weather was good so we had no trouble keeping ourselves oriented.

By the time we reached our anchorage at the Goddard Hot Springs, the mist had lifted and only a light rain was falling. After we set our hooks and settled in, Jack and Casey went ashore to check on the state of the hot springs. The Goddard Hot Springs are natural springs heated by volcanic activity deep below the earth’s surface. As the hot water bubbles up, it is collected in a reservoir and channeled through pipes into two large, round tubs. Water from a nearby cold-water stream is also brought in through pipes, so the temperature of the tubs can be regulated. The shore team drained the tubs and refilled them with nice warm water before returning to the fleet to ferry people to shore.

Everyone visited the hot springs and spent at least an hour soaking the warm water. Each of the tubs is inside a small wooden building, which sits in a lush meadow on a hillside overlooking the bay. The sheds are open on the side facing the bay, so the beautiful view is visible when soaking in the tub. All too soon, it was time to return to the boats and prepare for our last supper at sea.

The last supper was held on Deception and Mystic Eagle, which were rafted together. As usual, there was an over-abundance of incredible food. We started with a great spread of delicious appetizers, continued on to an amazing variety of delicious main courses and finished with some unbelievable desserts. After dinner, we held our traditional talent show. Each boat put together some kind of submission, whether it was a reading from a book, a poem about the trip, a skit, a video or a song. We are always amazed at the hidden talent within the groups we have and tonight was no exception. Finally, at about midnight, we returned to our boats with full bellies and high spirits.

Mother Goose Leg 3, Day 7 – Redfish Bay to Scow Bay

The good weather that had seen us from Coronation Island to Baranof yesterday was forecasted to rapidly deteriorate. When we awoke this morning, a persistent rain was falling and a breeze was blowing. Since most of our day’s travel would be exposed to the open ocean, we departed promptly at 8 am to beat the winds. After cruising back out of Redfish Bay, we turned right and continued up the coast. Visibility was poor, but the sea conditions could have been much worse. A light wind stirred the water’s surface and 3 or 4 foot swells rolled in off the Pacific. It was certainly a lazy cruising day, with the mist closed in around us. As the skippers kept diligent watch, most of the crews napped or relaxed in their salons.

An hour or so into our day’s cruise, Deception saw some unexpected breakers or whitewater off in the mist. There was no obstruction listed on the chart, so we proceeded a little further to see what was up ahead. As we got close, we could see that the commotion was being caused by a number of humpback whales. We passed 5 or 6 individuals, and it’s likely many more were hidden by the mist. These animals were being very active on the surface, splashing around with their pectoral fins and flukes. Two of these whales put on quite a display just off the port side of the fleet. After this moment of excitement, we left these playful whales behind and continued forward.

Our original destination for today was Stillwater Cove, but due to the weather forecast we decided to push ahead and finish up all of our cruising that was exposed to the open ocean. So, we motored on for another hour to reach Scow Bay. The entrance to Scow Bay is very narrow and we arrived at low tide, so we very slowly nudged our way through the entrance with trees hanging so close to the boats we could just about reach out and touch them. Once through the narrows, we dropped anchor in the small bay. Rolling, forested hills stretched out around us and, except for the rain there was no indication of the weather outside. After anchoring, most everyone was in the mood for a mellow afternoon. Some napped, others read or played games. It certainly felt good to relax after some of our great adventures. As the evening wore on, we enjoyed our second to last dinner at sea and settled in for the night.

Mother Goose Leg 3, Day 6 – Coronation Island to Redfish Bay

We arose this morning and said goodbye to the beautiful Coronation Island. Misty clouds threaded across the rocky top of Pin Peak and the waters of Egg Harbor lay completely still. Not a breath of wind stirred the ocean’s surface as we hauled anchor and cruised north out of the bay towards Baranof Island. A long stretch of open ocean lay between us and our destination, so for the first few hours we cruised with Southeast Alaska on our right and Japan off to our left. Fortunately for us, the weather could not have been more ideal for such a crossing. A few gentle swells rolled in from the North Pacific, creating only a slight rising and falling motion and doing nothing to disturb the glassy surface of the water. The seabirds were out in full force. We saw common murres, rhinoceros auklets, horned puffins, a sooty shearwater and we were even visited by a few black-footed albatross. These giant birds looked almost prehistoric, like huge pterodactyls soaring across the ocean. Each bird circled our boat a number of times before sailing off into the distance. It really was a treat to get to see these incredible birds in their natural habitat.

Due to the great weather, the long crossing was both fast and smooth. Humpback whales were spouting left and right and, just before we reached the southern tip of Baranof, a group of Dall’s porpoise came racing up to the fleet and began riding on our bow waves. The incredible wildlife sightings continued as we cruised up the west coast of Baranof Island, passing a number of Steller sea lion haul outs. These enormous marine mammals climb up on isolated rocks to dry off and rest between hunting trips. Their huge, tawny bodies were strewn across the rocks by the dozen. Here and there, a large bull stood prominently, tilting his head back toward the sky and posturing for all of the disinterested females around him. We left these large, lazy pinnipeds to their lolling and continued up the coast.

Shortly before reaching Redfish Bay we made a detour, turning right into Puffin Bay and onward into Forevergreen Basin. This tiny, secluded anchorage sits in the shadow of a ring of huge, green mountains. The peaks are treeless and covered in what looks like an alpine meadow. The crew of Navigator made the astute observation that it felt like sitting on a boat in an alpine lake somewhere in the Cascade Mountains. After soaking in the scenery, we turned around and headed back out Puffin Bay toward our destination for the evening.

Forevergreen Basin was incredibly beautiful, but Redfish Bay left little to be desired in terms of scenery. Forested hillsides swept downward to the water’s edge and, at the head of the bay, a lush green meadow spread along the shore where a creek flowed in. All around us salmon were jumping, gathering in the estuary to prepare for their journey upstream to spawn. We anchored the boats and enjoyed a relaxing afternoon. Some people chose to kayak, while others explored in their dinghies. In the evening, we were amazed to see an enormous brown bear step out onto the shore near the mouth of the stream. This behemoth made his way slowly down the beach, walking steadily and surely. Every now and then he lifted his nose to test the air, but he did not seem to be bothered by our presence. We snapped photos and watched the large predator through binoculars before he finally disappeared in the forest. What an incredible way to end a fantastic wildlife day in Southeast Alaska!

Mother Goose Leg 3, Day 5 – Coronation Island Lay Day

Everyone enjoyed a relaxed and leisurely morning on our lay day in Egg Harbor. Everyone, that is, but the fishermen. Pat and his little boat full of anglers left at around 8 am, eager to get out there and catch the monsters of the deep. The rest of the fleet arose a little later and went their separate ways, some people exploring in their dinghies, others reading, cooking, or just generally lounging around the boats. The fisherpeople returned at around 11 am, having caught a great haul of lingcod and rockfish. Brian and Pat promptly filleted the fish and distributed the meat. Before long, Pat was off with his next load of people. He was kind enough to act as a sort of volunteer fishing charter service for the day, taking those members of the fleet with fishing licenses out to drop a line in the water.

In the early afternoon, a small group went ashore for a forest walk guided by our naturalist Casey. After landing on the beach, we found a nice spot to enter the forest and promptly stepped into another world. In this temperate rainforest everything was covered by at least 3 inches of dense moss. Small plants grew up through the moss carpet, including some beautiful wild orchids which sent up spikes of beautiful, tiny purple flowers. As we meandered through the trees the setting was so still and peaceful that someone remarked it felt like being in a cathedral. High above us, the dense canopy of evergreens spread out, letting in only dappled sunlight. The thick branches were covered in lichens, mosses, and ferns, making them look thicker still. In a small clearing, we found the skeleton of a deer. This animal must have been one of many deer on the island, because lots of game trails and deer tracks littered the forest floor. After exploring the forest, we returned to the beach and had a look around before piling into the dinghies and returning to the boats.

Everyone got a chance to go out fishing with Pat, and they certainly chose the right person to go fishing with. Pat knew just the spot to put a line in the water, and everyone got to pull in plenty of fish. Jack caught the prize fish of the day, a 4 foot lingcod which swallowed the fish he was reeling in whole and got caught instead.

While the last group was out fishing, Casey went ashore and went on a hike through the forest. After scrambling through the dense forest for about an hour, he emerged on the rocky slopes of Pin Peak, the tallest mountain on Coronation Island. The weather had cleared and the sun was shining as he reached the craggy summit. From the top of the mountain, the boats were like little white toys. Even the soaring eagles were far below the peak. From below, the fleet could clearly see him standing atop the peak.

When we all had returned from our respective adventures, everyone settled in for a nice meal and a quiet evening. Tomorrow we would be leaving this little piece of paradise in the Pacific Ocean and cruising north to Baranof Island. For now, however, we sat at anchor in our little bay, contented.

Mother Goose Leg 3, Day 4 – Craig to Coronation Island

In Southeast Alaska, the wind generally picks up in the afternoon as the sun rises and warms the land. The mornings are usually calm and still, perfect for pleasant cruising. To take advantage of this phenomenon, we left Craig at 8 am and set out for Coronation Island. Our journey took us through a number of narrow, winding channels. The scenery was stunning, with emerald isles and a smattering of small, forested islets. The rain came and went, and we were even treated to a brief period of sunshine. The wildlife became denser and denser as we cruised along. We saw humpback whales, sea otters, and a multitude of seabirds, all feeding in the productive waters.

Before we knew it, we emerged out into the open Pacific Ocean, and Coronation Island appeared in the distance. Aside from a gentle ocean swell, the crossing was very flat. It did not take us long to cruise across the open stretch, around to the northern shores of Coronation Island. We pulled into Egg Harbor in the early afternoon. The local native peoples traditionally used this bay as a meeting spot for expeditions to the remote seabird colonies where they would harvest eggs. The bay derives its name from this ancient practice.

After dropping anchor, Casey led a dinghy tour of the surrounding area. We saw a multitude of seabirds including pelagic cormorants, pigeon guillemots, common murres, rhinoceros auklets, and marbled murrelets. A lone humpback whale spouted off in the distance, but we decided not to venture out that far in our little dinghies. Instead, we headed east, planning on exploring the neighboring bay. To our great surprise and pleasure, another humpback whale spouted up ahead, this one much closer than the last. We made our way closer to the animal and shut off our engines to watch and listen as it swam in the near shore waters. This particular individual must have been feeling a little exuberant, because it repeatedly slapped its flukes on the water’s surface and even lifted its entire hind end out of the water a few times. Finally, the whale seemed to tire of this game and moved on. The dinghy flotilla motored up the bay and went ashore to explore the beach and tide pools before returning to the fleet for dinner.

While the dinghy tour was taking place, Pat and Steve took the Kingfisher out and did a little fishing. They had great success, returning with two big lingcod and number of big healthy rockfish. Upon their return, the fish were promptly cleaned and filleted. The crew of Deception enjoyed a wonderful seafood stew, with fresh local spot prawns and the rockfish that was caught today. Before long, the light was fading and it was time to go to bed.