Desolation Sound Flotilla - October 3, 2010 - Egmont to Squirrel Cove

We said goodbye this morning to one of Sea Fox’s crew. Jen headed back home this morning via float plane out of Egmont. It was fun getting to know her and have her along for the first half of our trip. We hope to see her again on a future cruise!

Today is the day we enter into Desolation Sound. It is a bit of a long haul (about 50 miles) from Egmont to our anchorage in Squirrel Cove on Cortes Island, but a scenic one: up Malaspina Strait between the mainland and Texada Island, past the towns of Powell River and Lund, through the Copeland Islands (another Provincial Marine Park), past Bliss Landing where the road on the mainland ends, round Sarah Point and into Desolation Sound. Along the way we had a great view of a Stellar Sea Lion haul-out on a rocky islet; those guys are big and noisy! Several sea lions were also being very active in the water – it looked like they were hunting together. There were several groups of “rock sausages” aka harbor seals hauled out on rocks and bobbing in the water. And we were treated to the sight of Dall’s Porpoises leaping past us, with a few of the boats experiencing the joy of having the porpoises play in their bow wakes!

We entered into beautiful Squirrel Cove and had it almost to ourselves (very different from the summertime when it can be very packed). Everyone picked a spot with plenty of room and anchors were set out quite handily, especially considering this was actually our first anchorage on this trip. Dinghies were launched, and it was off to the Squirrel Cove General Store to restock some provisions, especially fresh produce. It may be a small store, but the selection and service were excellent. Then it was back to our boats after a long day for dinner and a cozy night on the hook.

Desolation Sound Flotilla - October 2, 2010 - Princess Louisa to Egmont

We enjoyed another leisurely morning at Princess Louisa Inlet, as the timing for exiting Malibu Rapids precluded a departure before 1:30 pm. We took our last hikes to Chatterbox Falls, visited with each other and the other folks we shared the dock with, and then readied our boats for departure. It was time to continue our adventure….

Out through Malibu Rapids (at slack), we retraced our path down Jervis Inlet and its constituent parts: Queen’s Reach, Princess Royal Reach, and Prince of Wales Reach. This long fjord has such sheer cliffs and deep, deep depths that there are really no anchorages along the way. It may be the same route, but it looks very different going in the opposite direction – and the autumn colors are definitely more noticeable than they were two days ago.

We cruised into Egmont and had excellent conditions for tying up to the dock at the Back Eddy Marina. It was fairly late by then, so most of the fleet quickly made their way up to the Back Eddy Pub, home of the famous Skookum Burger (a giant hamburger). Sea Fox’s crew shared a Skookum Burger, but most of us opted for the somewhat smaller Baby Skookum. No matter what the size, the burgers were excellent, as were the yam fries. The Back Eddy is an NWE favorite, and we all enjoyed a very convivial evening.

Later that night some of the crews were awakened by the pitter patter of little raccoon feet on their decks. Unfortunately for Deception we had accidentally left our hatch open to the lazerette containing the garbage stores. The raccoons wasted no time finding our mistake. It took a bit of encouragement to shoo them off; thankfully before too much mess was made! We’ll remember next time to make sure all items attractive to raccoons are well stowed before going to bed.

Desolation Sound Flotilla - October 1, 2010 - Princess Louisa Lay Day

We enjoyed a beautiful lay day in Princess Louisa Provincial Marine Park. We awoke as the sun lit up the fjord and enjoyed a leisurely morning cup of coffee and breakfast. Naturalist Emmelina and Captain Bill led an intrepid group of hikers on a morning hike (scramble!) upwards to an old trapper’s cabin and waterfall with an outlook that looked out over the entire inlet. Intrepid, indeed, as it is a very strenuous climb! There were dinghy explorations, as well, and the less adventurous among us soaked up the sunshine and this beautiful setting on our fly bridges.

Around five o’clock, we pulled the deck chairs out to the dock and began to gather for appetizers and a potluck supper. The crew of Deception provided the salmon, with the help of several of the other boats’ grills, the rest of the fleet contributed delicious side dishes, and a tasty feast was devoured by all. The hiker/climbers impressed us all with their tales of strength and endurance (and sore muscles), and a delightful evening of camaraderie was enjoyed. As darkness fell, we drifted back to our boats as the peace of this special place enveloped us.

Desolation Sound Flotilla - September 30, 2010 - Fisherman's Resort & Marina to Princess Louisa

We woke to fog this morning, as we had an early departure in order to transit the famed Malibu Rapids at slack tide. The fog lifted as the sky lightened, and by the time we exited Pender Harbour into Agamemnon Channel we had full sunshine and cloudless blue skies for our trip up stunning Jervis Inlet. The rugged mountain vistas are impressive, showing unmistakably the glacial action that formed this fjord. Amazingly, we saw only one other boat on our trip up to Princess Louisa Inlet on this gorgeous day; very different from the summer season.

Our timing at Malibu Rapids was perfect – it was like a millpond – and then we were into Princess Louisa Inlet. Magnificent sheer cliffs tower above us, streaked with bridal veil-like waterfalls. This place is truly awe-inspiring; it’s easy to see why several writers have described it as the eighth wonder of the world. There were only a few other boats on the park dock, so there was plenty of room for all of us as were greeted and helped in by the park ranger. From the dock we look right at spectacular Chatterbox Falls, the jewel at the head of the inlet (“Chatterbox” seems a bit of a misnomer – it’s more like a roaring cataract), and the crews wasted no time in making the short hike to the base of the falls.

This special place has been preserved for us thanks first to the man who first homesteaded here in the early 1900’s, James “Mac” MacDonald. He strongly felt that no one person should own this place and that it should be available for all to visit. His efforts combined with the boating community and many volunteers/donors led to the formation of the present BC Provincial Marine Park. The International Princess Louisa Society still actively raises funds to acquire land surrounding the park to preserve and protect this area.

The sunshine lasted well into the late afternoon despite the towering walls of the fjord, and most of those who weren’t on shore or exploring in their dinghies could be found basking in the sun atop their fly bridges. A few puffy clouds appeared just at sunset, but no more. We were treated to an incredible starlit sky streaked by the Milky Way undimmed by the lights of civilization. It was a truly perfect day!

Desolation Sound Flotilla - September 29, 2010 - Poet's Cove to Fisherman's Resort & Marina

Today was our longest day, travel time and distance-wise. It was also a challenging one, as we crossed the Strait of Georgia, the largest open body of water we have to traverse on this trip. The good news was that we had a beautiful sunny day; however, we also had NW winds gusting over 20 knots and very choppy seas, which made for a very bouncy ride until we got into the lee of the eastern (mainland) shore. It was the roughest water that some of our clients had ever been in. Trusty Deception, being the heaviest boat with stabilizers, ploughed through relatively comfortably while some of the smaller 36 foot boats felt a bit like they were on a roller coaster ride!

But that was only one part of the trip. We started the day with a beautiful sunrise over Ganges Harbour, and a delightful cruise along Trincomali Channel with Salt Spring Island to our port and Galiano Island to starboard. The Gulf Islands are a prime cruising area and they were really showing off this morning! In the summer months the boat traffic can be quite dense, but we were privileged to have the channel almost to ourselves. We were headed north toward Princess Louisa and Desolation Sound, though, so that meant we had to leave the Gulf Islands behind, head out through Porlier Pass and into the sloppy seas.

After the waves (and our stomachs) settled down, we were more willing to take note of our naturalist’s updates. It was fascinating to watch two giant log rafts being towed by not-so-big tugs past the Thormanby Islands, complete with both birds and seals bumming a free, if slow, ride. We cruised into beautiful Pender Harbour and found our moorage at Fisherman’s Resort and Marina in Hospital Bay, a lovely marina with plenty of room for all our boats. We celebrated our successful crossing of the Strait of Georgia with a social hour aboard Deception (lots of yummy appetizers!) – a fine and fitting way to end a long but adventurous day!

Desolation Sound Flotilla - September, 28,2010 - Bellingham to Poet's Cove, Ganges

The NWE 2010 Desolation Sound Flotilla is underway, under clearing skies and with calm seas as we set off across Bellingham Bay. We are a group of six boats – Spellbound, Navigator, Victoria, Sea Fox, and Grand Adventure, led by the ever faithful Deception. We set our course to cross north of Orcas Island, skirting Matia and Sucia Islands on our way to the Pender Islands and the Canadian Customs station in Bedwell Harbour. Along the way, our naturalist, Emmelina, noted that many of the sea birds we were seeing were beginning to don their winter plumage, especially the common murres and marbled murrelets. Lots of curious harbor seals swam by, clearly checking us out.

The fleet took no time to get accustomed to their chartered vessels and all seemed to be enjoying their first day out on the water.

By the time we got to Bedwell Harbour, we had full sunshine and sparkling seas – Welcome to Canada! After clearing customs, we set off again, rounding North Pender Island. We noted that quite a lot of those harbor seals were taking advantage of the sunny weather and basking on the rocky islets that dotted the shoreline, demonstrating why the NWE crew fondly dubs them “Rock Sausages”. From North Pender we headed almost in a straight line for Ganges on Salt Spring Island, our destination for the night. Salt Spring Island is the largest of the Gulf Islands and Ganges is the largest town. After tying up at our berths at Salt Spring Marina in Ganges Harbour, most of the crews went ashore to explore this charming town and to finish provisioning those items that have cross-border restrictions (primarily fresh produce and alcoholic libations). Several restaurants received rave reviews, and well-fed and well-satisfied with our lot in life, we settled in for a cozy evening under a beautiful starry sky (with Jupiter shining prominently) after an exciting first day.

August 18, 2010 - Leg 6, Day 17 - Friday Harbor to Bellingham

This is it, the last day of the last leg of the 2010 Mother Goose Guided Flotilla. It is a short trip today from Friday Harbor to Bellingham, and we made a leisurely departure (except for Navigator who left early as they had deadlines to meet). We also said good-bye to the crew of Arctic Star, who are extending their cruise with a few extra days in the San Juan Islands. It seemed a bit strange to travel without some of the goslings after having been together for so long.

It has been an awesome journey; each leg has brought incredible adventures and experiences for all our crews, from magnificent scenery and amazing wildlife to developing our skills as mariners. It has been NW Explorations’ privilege to share these waters with all our crews. We wish you all fair winds and calm seas in all your voyages and hope to see you again in the not too distant future. Thank you for a wonderful journey!

August 17, 2010 - Leg 6, Day 16 - Montague Harbor to Friday Harbor

As it is a short trip to Friday Harbor, a later departure was scheduled. This allowed for a lovely morning hike in Montague Harbour Provincial Marine Park, adjacent to our anchorage. We explored a shell midden beach, then walked through fir and madrone (arbutus) trees on well maintained paths, across a rocky beach back to the dinghy dock, and enjoyed views of the boat-filled harbour.

We hoisted our anchors one last time and got underway, cruising down Trincomali Channel past Active Pass, keeping an eye on the ferry and freighter traffic that comes through that aptly named passage. Just as we began our turn into Navy Channel, between Mayne and North Pender Islands, we had the very great pleasure of seeing a large group of Orcas heading our way. We, of course, hovered and soon we were surrounded by the whales. It was truly awesome as we watched them breaching, spyhopping, rolling, and lobtailing! They put on a great show! Some of the whales even went under Navigator which caused a great deal of excitement. Emmelina was able to identify at least one whale as belonging to J Pod, but there were clearly more than that one pod in the area, probably from K Pod, as well. These are the southern resident orcas which are a distinct group from the orcas we saw in northern British Columbia. Emmelina also informed us that this was the first time a Mother Goose flotilla had seen the Southern Resident Orcas on the route home.

After the orcas had passed us, we continued on our way past Saturna Island to cross the appropriately named Boundary Pass back into the United States and into the San Juan Islands. We made our way past Stuart and Johns Islands, along Speiden Island and then down San Juan Channel, dodging a Washington State Ferry, into the port of Friday Harbor. After clearing Customs and settling into our spots in the marina, Deception hosted a last Happy Hour, as our journey is coming to an end. This is always a bittersweet time as we remember the incredible experiences we’ve had and the friendships we’ve made. Ketchikan seems a long time ago!

August 16, 2010 - Leg 6, Day 15 - Secret Cove to Montague Harbor

Today we crossed the Strait of Georgia, the large open body of water between mainland BC and southern Vancouver Island. It was a long straight heading as we made our way to the Gulf Islands and Montague Harbour. The good news was that the strait was very calm, with smooth glassy seas; it can be very rough. The bad news was that the smoke haze still blocked our view of the mountains on the mainland. Emmelina warned us that animal sightings were usually pretty rare during this part of the trip, but there were some fleeting sights of Dall’s Porpoises.

Once across the Strait of Georgia, we cruised along the outside of Gabriola and Valdes Islands, spying some “rock sausages” (aka: harbor seals) basking in the sun, and then passing through Porlier Pass into Trincomali Channel. Now we were in the heart of the Gulf Islands, and had to mind our helms as we watched out for kayakers, other boats and ferries. We cruised almost the length of long, skinny Galiano Island into lovely Montague Harbour, a large protected anchorage which can handle a lot of boats. We all settled in, Deception refilled Navigator’s water tanks, and into the water went the kayaks and dinghies. We had a chance to relax before dinghying to shore to catch the funky pub bus to the Hummingbird Pub – a Galiano Island experience, indeed! We had a delicious dinner with a touch of local flavor (not to mention the excellent halibut), and returned to our boats as a glowing red sun slipped behind the trees. Aahh!

August 15, 2010 – Leg 6, Day 14 – Squirrel Cove to Secret Cove

We awoke to an already warm morning and were soon underway across Desolation Sound, which did not resemble Captain Vancouver’s description of it one bit. If he had seen it on a day like today, it would definitely have had a different name! The smoke haze had dissipated somewhat, but unfortunately obscured our views of the mountains on Vancouver Island. We passed out of Desolation Sound and cruised along the “Sunshine Coast” down Malaspina Strait, with Texada Island to our west. We passed by the town of Lund, which is where the road up the mainland coast ends. In addition, there were lots of houses along the shore and as we cruised into more populated areas, we noticed that we were seeing less wildlife. We did enjoy the antics of quite a few harbor seals, on and off floating logs, however!

The warm weather has certainly brought out the boaters; as we passed by Buccaneer Bay on Thornby Island, we noticed it was packed with boats. After our wilderness cruising up north, the anchorages now seem very crowded. Our destination was Secret Cove, a lovely but popular spot (it is easy driving distance from Vancouver), and even though we arrived there fairly early, finding room for our boats was a challenge. We ended up rafting 3 boats together and stern-tying Navigator, while Inside Passage found a good spot off on their own. There was plenty of time for dinghy trips around the little harbor, kayak explorations, and even some swimming as the weather remained hot. Mystic Eagle hosted dinner for the three rafted boats, and a lovely evening was enjoyed by all as we watched the lights come on in the houses around us.

August 14, 2010 – Leg 6, Day 13 – Blind Channel to Squirrel Cove

We were up early for a 7 am departure from Blind Channel in order to hit the rapids we would be going through today close to slack. It was a beautiful morning and as we cruised down Cordero Channel in the early morning light, layers upon layers of mountains unfolded before us, rising up out of the water to give the channel a fjord-like appearance. Mystic Eagle alerted the fleet to a pod of Dall’s Porpoise coming our way, and most of the boats had the thrill of having porpoises riding the bow wakes! Wow!

As we approached Dent Rapids, the boat traffic picked up as everyone was aiming for slack at the rapids. This area is home to several large hotels and resorts which seem a bit jarring in contrast to the wilderness setting around us. Even being so close to slack, the rapids at Dent and Yaculta were still running about 2-3 knots against us and the skippers had to mind their helms; their crews got to enjoy the harbor seals cavorting along the tidal rips.

As we were cruising along, the haze in the sky thickened and began to obscure what should have been a beautiful day. It smelled smoky and we learned it was caused by forest fires on the BC mainland. British Columbia is experiencing a dry summer and multiple fires are a result.

We arrived in Squirrel Cove in good time to find anchorages for all our boats; we are in Desolation Sound now, a very popular cruising ground for northwest boaters, and the anchorages can fill up quickly. Dinghies and kayaks were launched to explore the cove, and to pay a visit to the Squirrel Cove store (ice cream!) and craft shop. The day had gotten quite hot and the inviting water lured several intrepid mariners to jump in to cool off – which they quickly did as the water temperature was a chilly 55 degrees F! Mystic Eagle generously hosted a Happy Hour and we finished out a fine summer day with good company in a special place.

August 13, 2010 – Leg 6, Day 12 - Lagoon Cove to Blind Channel

We had a planned noon-time departure due to tides and currents, so some of the fleet decided to take a morning hike. It was not to be, however, as a cougar had been spotted the night before right on the main path up from the dock. The Canadian Fisheries department sent in a wildlife conservation team to try to track it, but despite their efforts, that ol’ wily cougar managed to elude the tracking dogs and officers by the time we departed.

The fog had completely lifted by the time we departed from Lagoon Cove and it was a beautiful Northwest summer day. The tide was still low, but that made it easier to see the rocks as we threaded our way through the Blowhole into Chatham Channel and then through our first set of rapids (at slack). We entered into a sparkling and calm(!) Johnstone Strait. We did have an orca sighting through binoculars, but they were way on the other side of the strait, and unfortunately our schedule did not permit a major detour … “time and tide (and rapids) wait for no man”…. As we cruised down the strait, the mountain vistas on Vancouver Island and the mainland became more dramatic. The current was running with us, and inevitably (it seems) we encountered a tug and tow in Current Passage, a constricted stretch of Johnstone Strait. We were out of his way, but it was interesting to watch him grinding his way against the current.

The day’s cruising schedule had been timed around the currents and tidal rapids, and Green Point Rapids were the last ones we had to transit, just before reaching our moorage. We passed through without any issue, but there was enough swirly water to give us a sense of the power of the water and why the timing was so important. We settled into our slips at Blind Channel Marina and Resort, nestled into the side of West Thurlow Island, everybody dealing easily with the tricky currents at the marina. Fresh lettuce was found at the Blind Channel store, grown in their own garden no less! The evening brought about fine dining ashore as well as cozy meals aboard!

August 12, 2010 – Leg 6, Day 11 – Port McNeill to Lagoon Cove

There was no fog in Port McNeill this morning, but there was wind. Captain Bill held a skippers’ meeting to go over docking procedures at Lagoon Cove, which can be a little tricky in windy conditions, as well as what to expect on the following day when we have the challenges of current and timing the transit of several tidal rapids.

We had hardly left the harbour when Navigator’s crew spotted a black bear on the beach. Emmelina noted the bear had to walk through town in order to get onto that beach. As we cruised by Alert Bay, noting the totem poles, a gray whale was sighted along the shore; Emmelina (aka Whale Woman) was thrilled as this was a rare sighting on a Mother Goose trip. The fact that the whale was feeding so close to a muddy beach (gray whales are bottom-feeding baleen whales) and its mottled gray color were what clued Emmelina into the fact that it was not a humpback whale.

The forecast for high winds did not materialize, but we were very aware of the current. First it was against us and we plowed along, but then it switched and we zoomed along (Deception hit over 12 knots – practically unheard of!) through island studded channels. We arrived early into Lagoon Cove on East Cracroft Island, but Bill Barber fit us all in nicely on the dock (which went smoothly), and welcomed the fleet to Lagoon Cove Marina, one of Mother Goose’s favorite stops.

Emmelina led a group of hikers on a nature walk out to the Blowhole and the “Bakery Boat Lady” arrived at the dock with sticky buns, cookies, breads, and pies. But the real focus of attention was the 5:00 Happy Hour, a Lagoon Cove tradition, whereby all the boaters bring an appetizer to share, Bill and Jean Barber provide the fresh caught prawns and stories, and a great time is had by all.

August 11, 2010 – Leg 6, Day 10 - Port McNeill Lay Day

Today was a lay day in Port McNeill – a good day to add to our provisions for the next leg of the trip and get in some good walks. While most of us slept in, the crew of Mystic Eagle got up early to go out on a fishing charter; they came back in the late afternoon with a large salmon and a halibut which they generously shared with the fleet – yum!

A trip to Alert Bay was enjoyed by other crews; this Namgis First Nations town is a short ferry ride from Port McNeill, located on nearby Cormorant Island, and is home to the U’Mista Cultural Centre. U’Mista provides an outstanding and moving introduction to the local native culture and their efforts to reclaim their heritage and the treasures which had been taken from them in the past.

Time was also spent on boat maintenance and repair, as Port McNeill has good marine facilities and needed parts are available. Thanks to Jason 2 for helping to get Arctic Star's water pump repaired!

After the chores were done, there was time to visit with other boaters on the dock and watch the bald eagles soar overhead and go after the fish scraps left by fishermen on the tidal flats. Everyone is ready to get underway again; tomorrow we are off to Lagoon Cove.

August 10, 2010 – Blunden Harbor to Port McNeill

We were able to have a more leisurely departure this morning as the trip across Queen Charlotte Strait to the town of Port McNeill is a short one. Several of the boats need to refuel, and if provisions are running low, Port McNeill is the place to take care of both needs. However, as we left Blunden Harbour, we immediately entered into the fog. This area is a very busy shipping channel, so we needed to pay close attention to our radars (and for those boats equipped with it, AIS). As the fog lifted, we were treated to the sight of some Dall’s Porpoises arching sleekly along in the calm water.

We got into Port McNeill and found our slips waiting for us at Steve Jackman’s Port McNeill Fuel Dock and Marina, along with helpful dockhands (Thanks, Steve!) After settling in there was time to explore the town, and choose a place to dine out for dinner. A pleasant evening ended with an amazing fire-y sunset.

August 9, 2010 – Leg 6, Day 8 – Fury Cove to Blunden Harbor

The Mother Goose fleet was up at “o’dark-thirty” this morning as we prepared to make our crossing of Queen Charlotte Sound around Cape Caution. This is one of the open water crossings we make and can be challenging. After checking the weather and sea condition reports, and with knowledge of the prevailing weather patterns, Captain Bill determined on an early departure to get us across the sound while the seas and winds would be at their calmest. We left Fury Cove just at first light and indeed, our crossing proved to be quite smooth with only two foot swells and no wind waves as we watched the sun come up over the mountains on the British Columbia mainland.

After rounding Cape Caution we stayed closer to the mainland side, cruising along the craggy shoreline that showed the signs of the harsh weather this area can experience. Off in the distance we could now see the north end of Vancouver Island. We detoured through the Millar Group, a chain of rocky islets, to check out a Stellar Sea Lion haulout – one of the islets was just covered with these large mammals – while a humpback whale spouted on the other side of us! Then it was on to our anchorage at Blunden Harbour where there was plenty of room for everyone to anchor individually. Here we executed a water transfer from Deception to Navigator, as Navigator had taken on some bad water at Shearwater which necessitated the disinfecting and pumping out of their tanks, then refilling them from Deception’s tanks. This was accomplished expeditiously, and the crew of Navigator happily went off to make ice for their evening beverages.

A dinghy exploration of Blunden Harbour and its tidal rapids, led by Naturalist Emmelina and First Mate Jordan, filled out the afternoon, and we celebrated a successful crossing of Queen Charlotte Sound, a cruising milestone, with a social hour aboard Deception.