Leg 1, Day 12 - Winter Harbour Lay Day

The aroma of melting chocolate complemented the satisfying sounds of sizzling which wafted through Deception this morning. Captain Brian was cooking a huge batch of chocolate chip pancakes to bring over to Mystic Eagle to help say farewell to George. Deception provided the pancakes, and the Crees provided the bacon and eggs; it was a feast! We enjoyed our morning spread as we reminisced about our trip thus far. George’s seaplane arrived at about 10 am and we reluctantly said our goodbyes and wished him safe travels home. It was difficult to see a member of our adventure leave us with so much of our adventure left ahead of us, but we were all very happy about Annie and Sue’s arrival. We were all anxious to fill them in on our experiences so far and couldn’t wait to create new memories with them. This was our last evening on Vancouver Island; we had successfully navigated the west coast and tomorrow we were to traverse Queen Charlotte’s Sound and connect with the Inside Passage. We would continue up the B.C. coastline until we reached our ultimate destination, Ketchikan, Alaska. As with most things in life, however, reaching our destination isn’t our objective. Our objective is living this moment, and then the next until we have a series of moments that turn into a journey which we can carry with us for the rest of our lives. So far the moments have been unforgettable, filled with incredible scenery and amazing wildlife that few people ever see and new friends with whom we are fortunate enough to enjoy this spectacular journey.

Leg 1, Day 11 - Klaskish to Winter Harbour

This morning we lifted anchor in Klaskish and headed for our final destination on Vancouver Island, Winter Harbour. This small town was only about a three hour cruise and was town we had seen since we left Tofino. The cruise to Winter Harbour was beautiful and the town itself was picturesque, nestled on the shore of a large bay and surrounded by fantastic views of rolling mountains. At the top of the dock was “The Outpost,” a small store which provided the only fuel, liquor, and groceries available in the area. All of these operations are run by a man named Ron who was very friendly and accommodating to us. When we arrived, he dropped what he was doing to come down the fuel dock and give diesel to our five thirsty Grand Banks. Captain Brian and Ron spend this time catching up, as they’ve become old friends over the past years from NW Explorations’ travels up north. After fueling Ron offered to open the store up early for us, which we gladly accepted in hopes of getting some fresh produce and more provisions. As we fueled and shopped, a seaplane gracefully landed in the bay and pulled up on the float next to the fleet. The Brantley’s son, Jason, had flown all the way from New York City to join his family on the rest of the adventure up to Ketchikan. We were all excited to have a new member to share this experience. The rest of the evening was spent relaxing, kayaking, hiking along the beach, and visiting with one another. There were some great photo opportunities, including some shots of the masses of sea otters that make their home within the bay. One otter in particular was not shy about coming in close to the boats and spent a lot of time loudly chomping on some crab just off the dock. Tomorrow we will have a lay day, so we will be able to continue to enjoy the gorgeous vista Winter Harbour offers. The day will be bittersweet, as we unfortunately have to say goodbye to George Cree who is flying back to Texas, but we get to welcome Annie and Sue Cree, wives of Rick and Hal who will be joining us for the rest of Leg 1.

Leg 1, Day 10 - Klaskish Lay Day

We awoke this morning to some friendly banter over the radio. Apparently Eddy had dropped a crab pot last night but the tide had lowered so significantly over night that Carol was joking he was more likely to catch rabbits than crab. It was obviously we were all feeling refreshed and enjoyed being able to sleep in and have a lazy morning. Through the inlet of our bay and around the corner, there is a river which runs inland and Casey decided to lead a dinghy tour up it as it makes for a stunning ride. The river is narrow and dense with trees, some of which are reaching out over the water attempting to gather as much sunlight as possible. Fallen trees and shallow spots are among the obstacles making for an adventurous dinghy ride. We were only able to go about a half a mile to a mile up the river before having to turn around due to a log jam of fallen trees, amongst which was a several hundred year old spruce with an uplifted base of roots as high as Deception. Idling through this lush temperate rainforest, we couldn’t help but imagine ourselves on an expedition through the Amazon, the logs started looking like hippos wading in the water, and the branches weaved through the trees like boa constrictors. Everyone had a great time meandering up the river and it was an inspiring sight to see all of the Mother Gooselets cruising along these pristine waters in such a remote part of the world – it’s quite possible that we were the last visitors to East Creek since we were here this time last year. With the dingy tour was adjourned, people were on their own to enjoy the rest of the day. Many went exploring in kayaks, perusing areas that were too shallow for even the dinghies to go. That evening Deception Cinema was showing the movie “Captain Ron” and thus we concluded a great day with popcorn, wine, and laughter.

Leg 1, Day 9 - Dixie Cove to Klaskish

What a beautiful morning! The sun is shining and spirits are high. We emerged from our anchorage in Dixie Cove into Tahsis Passage and immediately saw a black bear foraging for food down on a beach. As our bows cut through the placid water, it felt as if we were the first to ever explore these waters. The scenery was breathtaking as we maneuvered through a narrow passage into an obstacle course of rocks and islands, many of which we never would have seen had it been high tide. We were giddy with excitement as there was too much to see. Look at the islands over there! Look at the eagles flying over there! There’s another raft of otters by those rocks there! Eagles and otters and bears, oh my!! The beauty was almost too much to take in. Had there been a whale we probably would have imploded. It is mornings like these that make life worth living – and it’s only 9:30 am. We traversed our way through a mix of islands and made our way out into the Pacific Ocean where the sea welcomed us with waters almost as calm as the passage we just cruised. We couldn’t have wished for better seas. This weather window was simply too good to miss, so we decided to cruise right past our intended anchorage in the Bunsby Islands and continue on around the Brooks peninsula, past Solander Island, to Klashkish Bay. Cruising doesn’t get much better than this.

As we came around the tip of the Brooks Peninsula, an ethereal mist cloaked Solander Island. Like a scene out of Jurassic Park, the island slowly appeared and we could see tufted puffins, pelagic cormorants, common murres, and pigeon guillemots soaring above the rocks. A loud barking noise could be heard in the wind and as we rounded Solander, hundreds of Steller sea lions could be seen sunning themselves on the rocks. It was an amazing sight to see, and hear, these large creatures piled on the island. Unlike seals, sea lions can rotate their hind flippers under their bodies and walk on them. This allows them to be quite agile, climbing up steep rocks that humans would find daunting, even with our opposable thumbs. As we continued around Brooks Peninsula, Solander Island disappeared again into its protective mist, having provided us only a glimpse into the lives of these endangered species. We were grateful for the opportunity.

The entrance to Klaskish Bay is a narrow inlet, almost unnoticeable until you’re right on top of it, lined with towering trees and rocks. Once through the narrow entryway, the bay opens up and offers plenty of anchorage room. Because the weather was so accommodating and we were able to cruise further north, we are having a lay day tomorrow in which we can sleep in, go on a dinghy tour, go kayaking, and just relax in beautiful Klaskish Bay.

Leg 1, Day 8 - Friendly Cove to Dixie Cove

This morning we lifted anchor and continued our voyage north toward Dixie Cove, about 56 miles up the coast of Vancouver Island. We headed up the Tahsis Passage on the east side of Nootka Island which kept us sheltered and provided amazing views of the pristine wilderness around us – some of the last left in the world. It must have been our lucky day as the wildlife was out in force. We not only saw our first black bear, but also our second, and our third, and our fourth and oh who can keep count anymore! The shoreline was littered with an abundance of oysters and it was feeding time. Along the way we also passed a large raft of about 25-35 sea otters who were also feeding. Dixie Cove is a beautiful, peaceful spot which is almost like a cove within a cove. Arctic Star, Navigator, and Inside Passage made their way into the inner cove to anchor while Mystic Eagle and Deception made their home in the outer cove for the evening. Several of the boats took advantage of the calm water and went kayaking or for dinghy rides. Two little freshwater streams made there way into the cove which seemed like a good place to drop a crab pot to the Rick and RJ of Mystic Eagle and Eddy of Arctic Star. Several dinghies and kayakers stopped by Deception for a cocktail before continuing on their tour of the cove. It was a pleasant evening and as the night sky cleared up and the moon shone down, you couldn’t help but breathe a deep peaceful sigh. It was as if we weren’t meant to be anywhere else.

Leg 1, Day 7 - Hot Springs Cove to Friendly Cove

This morning we set sail for Friendly Cove, about 40 miles north of Hot Springs Cove. We were sad to leave the soothing embrace of the hot springs but looked forward to continuing our journey and seeing what new experiences lay ahead. We made a careful entry into Friendly Cove in the early afternoon. The opening to the cove is lined with rocks which aren’t visible during high tide, so a gentle approach and watchful maneuvering and is necessary to avoid any pitfalls. Once in the snug and sheltered cove, Deception dropped anchor and the rest of the flotilla rafted up against her creating a solid mass of Grand Banks. Once settled, Jordan ferried everyone around the corner to the former location of the village of Yuquot. Yuquot was a first nation village that stood on the hill above Friendly Cove. The site has been continuously inhabited for over 4300 years. In the mid-1900’s the village relocated to another site, but one family remained as caretakers of the land. They welcome visitors and are excited to share information about their history and culture. It’s hard to imagine this small, peaceful community as a once thriving harbor.


Just as our Commander of Small Vessels made a beach landing onto Nootka, a Coast Guard helicopter flew overhead and landed at the CG Station just next to us. They handed off a package and then disappeared into the mist as quickly as they had appeared. That is how mail is delivered to the lighthouses in remote BC. As we made our way up the beach and onto the boardwalk which took us into “town” a local member of the Mowachaht tribe greeted us along the path. He was very friendly and anxious to share with us where to see their historic sites. He also informed us that he had caught about 50 pounds of halibut yesterday and would be willing to sell it to us for only $6 a pound. We knew what we were having for dinner tonight! Murray ended up buying enough fish for a halibut feast for the entire fleet and of course people bought more for their own reserve. In total we ended up buying about 25-30 lbs of halibut, a great way to support the local economy.

One of the main sites in town was a beautiful totem pole that was erected in 1929 and toppled in a large storm during the winter of 1994. The ornately carved figures of a bear, raven, human and eagle had lost most of their color and were returning to the earth, being overgrown by grasses and salmonberries. Custom dictates that a fallen totem pole cannot be re-erected; a new one must be created in its place. We spoke with a local carver who is renowned for beautiful carvings. He told us that he has been given permission from the local elders and chief to carve a new totem pole but he is waiting for the right 40+ foot log to wash up on shore so he can begin carving the replacement pole. The carver, Sanford Williams, allowed us to go visit his workshop where we could see some of his work. His shop was right on the beach overlooking the bay. As soon as we opened the door, the aroma of freshly cut cedar surrounded us and beckoned us in. All of Sanford’s artwork is created by hand; he even makes his own tools. He had gorgeously detailed masks and wood carvings hung on the walls and a large stripped log which will eventually be a wolf that is being carved for a gallery in Tofino. Sanford’s son, Mike, was also there and was following in his father’s footsteps; he was working on completing his first painted carving.

The local church in the village had been turned into a museum which held fantastic historical pictures of the surrounding area and the village as it once was. One of the highlights of the museum was two magnificent stained glass windows donated by the Russian government in 1954: one depicting the first Catholic missionaries making contact with the native people, and the other showing the Spanish Captain Bodega-Quadra and the British Captain Cook signing the Nootka Convention, a very important historical event which took place in Nootka Sound in the 1700’s.

Back at the boats, a reception was held on Deception in which Captain Brian cooked up the halibut for the whole flotilla. Everyone brought an appetizer and their beverages of choice, and another pleasant evening was spent reliving in the events of the day. What a great way to end another memorable day on Mother Goose.

Leg 1, Day 6 - Tofino to Hot Springs Cove

Today we left Tofino for Hot Springs Cove. We unfortunately had to say goodbye to Denise & Kirk from Arctic Star who were heading back to their winery in CA.  It was our first real drizzly day, but the weather did nothing to diminish the natural beauty of the area. In fact the mists shrouding the mountaintops created a mystical atmosphere that was beautiful and even humbling to behold. We meandered through the interior waterways between Vancouver Island and the east side of both Vargas and Flores Islands. As we cruised, we passed a native town which had a large central meeting hall and a spectacular totem pole out front. We also saw our first salmon farms, a ubiquitous sight on the BC coast. The mountains towered above us, protecting our flotilla from the winds and creating a serene and breathtaking environment. We spotted several porpoises as well and many sea otters. At one point we passed a raft of about 10 or 15 holding on to one another as they floated on their backs. As we emerged from our sheltered passage into the Pacific Ocean, large swells awoke us from our mystical trance and we once again focused on the sea before us. We weren’t in the open but for a few minutes when we took a sharp right and headed into the protective waters of Hot Springs Cove. With an open dock to ourselves, our Grand Banks settled in to call this inlet home for the night.

Once settled, Casey led those interested on a dinghy tour (driven of course by Commander of Small Vessels, Jordan) of the cove in hopes of spotting black bears, deer, or eagle nests. While there were no bear sightings today, we were able to spot several bald eagles and ospreys. The coastline was captivating with its dense forest and rugged cliff lines. The water was surprisingly clear and we could see right to the bottom, which was covered in giant pink sea stars. On the rocky shore, smaller sea stars, mussels, and barnacles covered every available inch.

Then, of course, there is what gives this locale its name, the local hot springs. From our dock there is a boardwalk which leads about a mile along the shore to a series of hot springs of varying temperatures. The hot springs are created naturally and heated from volcanic activity deep underground. The springs are nestled just on the other side of some large rocks near the opening of the cove by the Pacific Ocean. So while sitting in your warm and comfortable hot spring, drinking a beer, you have a view of the Pacific waves smashing into the rocks and creating a show of spray. Life is good.